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weeble

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About weeble

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    Advanced Member

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    http://whistlingfishpottery.com

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    Oregon Coast

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  1. I've tried RIO, manganese dioxide, and copper carb on greenware. They all brush off pretty easily after a cone 05 bisque without something to fix them. The terra sigillata is a very fine slip, and it acts to fix the oxides so they DON'T brush off at bisque, so you can brush glaze over very easily. The copper carb was brushing off bisque very easily too, so I usually use the copper carb/terra sig mix on bisque as well as green. RIO and manganese dioxide however you can simply apply to bisque and rub it back with a sponge, it sticks well enough to get fun effects! HMMMMmmm, wait, its been
  2. I normally sponge or brush my glaze on, but I bet if you're spraying you'll be fine just going with the one bisque. With brushing though, the copper carb was lifting, which is why I started using a terra sig base and often do the second bisque. You're just going to have to do some tests to see what the glaze/copper carb combination do.
  3. I've been using copper carb in a way that might answer some of your questions. I mix the copper carb with a white terra sig just because its a handy way to stick the stuff, copper carb seems to wipe off a lot easier than RIO and mang.diox. I apply this mix to a textured bisqued piece, then wipe it off the areas I want the base clay color to show then put my transparent over and glaze fire. This gives a nice green with a wide range of light and dark areas. Adding the copper carb to the glaze directly gives a much more uniform look, less textured, so its not what I want. It makes a nice gree
  4. Claypple, which of Laguna's 'Peacock' glazes are you using? They've got two in the cone 5-6 line, I've used MS#27 a lot. Its a crazy glaze, over some clay it is more green, over the Laguna B-mix it goes blue-green, on "Frost" porcelain it is straight blue. (Someone with more glaze formulation knowledge could probably say exactly what's going on, but I'm stuck using commercial glazes.) A layer of white under it does some fabulous texture things... I've used "Colonial White" under, with the MS#27 over and got a really crazy roiling water look.
  5. I've made slips using both, what I've noticed is that the copper carb. (I've never worked with cobalt carb that wasn't already blended in something) reacts with the overglaze but the mason stains don't tend to react as much. I suppose its going to depend on what is in the mason stain, but the copper carb turns a clear glaze green. VERY pretty, but just something to be aware of. ETA: I'll admit most of what I've worked with is terra sigs, which form such a thin layer they mostly burn out under glaze.
  6. Hi Weeble, i have joined today and your profile photo is the first photo I have found on here so thought I would look at your profile, discovered you joined on my birthday last year and thought this was a good reason to say hello!! Plus you are an advanced member!

  7. I'll often peek at the top shelf, but usually leave stuff until its cool enough to handle with bare hands. Sometimes I break down and grab the pot holders though, but I really do try to leave stuff in until its cooled to 150deg or so. I don't mess with the plugs but I figure the envirovent will do just as well as anything for venting
  8. weeble

    Some of my work

    Coil work
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