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  1. Like
    eoteceramics got a reaction from Callie Beller Diesel in Low fire glaze on stoneware bisque   
    Hi everyone, thanks for you're replies and help, I dont know how to reply individually 
    I guess I have a few tests to do ahead of me ! 
    Just to be clear, the plan was to bisque the stoneware at the correct temp , then glaze fire with my glazes at the correct temperature which would be 1060.
    Unfortunately  no there isn't a similar stoneware glaze available. 
    Thanks Callie, I think I'll ask my supplier if they have an earthenware clay that would be suitable for food use then I can use my glazes.
  2. Like
    eoteceramics got a reaction from Hulk in removing large platter from the wheel   
    Thanks to all for their advice and tips, Ive no excuses  now, Im off to throw a massive platter
  3. Like
    eoteceramics reacted to Benzine in removing large platter from the wheel   
    Yeah, if you are cutting the bottoms too thin, just leave more, than you generally would.  Even with a thin wire, you are always going to leave some on the bat.  If you use an absorbent bat, like plaster, or some of the other wood-ish varieties, they will pop off clean, with no loss in thickness.  As I mentioned, this can be a problem, with forms, that have larger bottoms, due to the shrinkage.
    The good think about thick bottoms, is you can always trim off the excess. 
    Also, when throwing, don't be afraid to check the thickness, with a needle.  It's the best way to know for sure!
  4. Like
    eoteceramics reacted to Benzine in removing large platter from the wheel   
    So, when you go to cut and remove it, from the bat, that's where you are having the issue(s)?
    When are you wiring it? (Right after throwing, after it has set up for several hours to a day or two, etc)
    What kind of bat, are you throwing on? (Plastic, plaster, masonite, etc)
    What exact issues, have you run in to, with the way you have done it before? (It ends up being too thin, it leaves uneven marks, etc)
    Also, do you trim any excess off the bottom, with a wood knife, turning tool, etc, right after throwing?
    Personally, I use Wonderbats, which do well at absorbing water, and will allow the wares to "pop" off, once they have set enough.  I have found them to be a bit drier than I like for handle attachment, if I do this, so I tend to wire them, once I am done throwing.  I don't try and move them, it just allows them to release easily, once they have dried a little, but no so much, that I have issues with the handles. 
    I've not done many large platters, but I have read, that people have had issues, if they let them dry too much, on the bat, before wiring, due to the large surface area, that is contracting against the bat. 
    Also: If you are turning/ trimming the bottom, make sure to flip it, using another large bat, set on the rim, before inverting.  Plates and platters, have such a large open rim, they tend to distort, when inverted, compared to narrower forms.
  5. Like
    eoteceramics reacted to CactusPots in removing large platter from the wheel   
    What kind of bats are you using?  Large base pots will eventually release from my hyracal bats, but I usually cut them, then let them go to leather hard before flipping them onto another bat.  If for some reason the wire isn't a workable approach, I would think a plaster bat would be the trick.  It would be a specialty bat, as it would be fragile, but you'd have to have water absorbed to get the platter to release without the wire. 
  6. Like
    eoteceramics reacted to Min in removing large platter from the wheel   
    Plaster batt, no wiring, problem solved.
    If you do have to wire off because you're using a different sort of batt then using a thick wire helps to prevent the clay from resealing to the batt, this can happen if you use a finer gauge wire in which case you have to re-cut it which can create problems.
  7. Like
    eoteceramics reacted to Mark C. in removing large platter from the wheel   
    Yes the larger diameter wire will help-after lip is dry then put another large bat on top of platter and invert (flip) to dry our bottom.
  8. Like
    eoteceramics reacted to neilestrick in removing large platter from the wheel   
    Gotta throw it on a bat.
  9. Like
    eoteceramics reacted to liambesaw in removing large platter from the wheel   
    Use a large bat
  10. Like
    eoteceramics reacted to Babs in removing large platter from the wheel   
    Yes a bat if you've got one but maybe leave a bit more clay than you think you need to for the base. Cut with wire..twisted , when wheel is moving.
    Can leave it to firm up a bit..
    Can you watch folk doing it.
    Don't hesitate just do it. Anydistortions can be rectified when your pot has firmed a bit.
    Dont touch the rim but adjust shape further down the pot
  11. Like
    eoteceramics reacted to liambesaw in removing large platter from the wheel   
    I try to trim my foot on the wheel before I fold the walls down, then just leave it on the Masonite until it pops off, comes off right when it's ready to trim.
  12. Like
    eoteceramics reacted to Magnolia Mud Research in removing large platter from the wheel   
    I use either a canvas bat, tarpaper bat, or a cardboard bat (aka a soft bat) between the platter and the solid bat sitting on the wheel head.  These thin soft bats are attached to the solid bat with some slip.  When the rims of the platter have stiffened, I run a wire tool between the soft bat and the solid bat and either slide the platter off onto a drying rack, or flip the platter over onto a drying rack.  When the platter is leather hard, I peal the soft bat off.  Learned this technique from Fred Olsen at a workshop years ago.  Canvas/tarpaper bats are discussed in the textbook by Vince Pitelka. 

  13. Like
    eoteceramics reacted to Benzine in removing large platter from the wheel   
    I also use a needle, before wiring, and advise my students, to do the same.  The students that cut the bottoms off their projects, do so, because they either made the bottoms too thin, or did not trim/ undercut the bottom, before wiring.
    Instead of a cheap paper towel, what about using newspaper on the bat?  It is also quite absorbent, which is why crumpling it up, and stuffing inside of wet shoes, is a great way to dry them!
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