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Everything posted by eoteceramics

  1. Hi everyone, thanks for you're replies and help, I dont know how to reply individually I guess I have a few tests to do ahead of me ! Just to be clear, the plan was to bisque the stoneware at the correct temp , then glaze fire with my glazes at the correct temperature which would be 1060. Unfortunately no there isn't a similar stoneware glaze available. Thanks Callie, I think I'll ask my supplier if they have an earthenware clay that would be suitable for food use then I can use my glazes.
  2. Hi there, I've been asked to make some plates which presumably will have to be a stoneware clay and fired high in order to be food safe. However the glaze they want is a eathenware glaze usually fired at 1060. Q. Is this possible to combine stoneware bisque with eathenware glaze? Thanks, Julia
  3. Thanks to all for their advice and tips, Ive no excuses now, Im off to throw a massive platter
  4. Im using wooden bats, hand made I actually think Im making the base a bit thin. I do trim with a wooden knife but havent tried the needle tool trick. I wire offf after throwing and then again after it is leather hard. the problem is the wire is cutting into the clay when I pull it through, cant seem to cut flat against the bat. There is lots of great advice here so Im going to try and source a different bat and try some of the other tips. Thanks, Julia
  5. Thanks for all your help, and the tip for wet shoes! Im going to take on board all the info here, i wont be defeated !
  6. Hi, Im using wooden bats. No problem with everything else just large platters. i cut after throwing then let them go leather hard, the problem with the wire is its not staying flat against the bat and is cutting into the clay. Im going to try and source some items mentioned in this forum. Thanks for your help.
  7. Thanks for that Im going to try and source some of these items and give this a go.
  8. Thanks, do you know where supplies these batts, cant find them here in Ireland.
  9. Thanks, sorry didnt mention it is on a bat. Just havent been able to get them off cleanly. thanks Julia
  10. Hi there, Im looking for tips to remove a large platter from the wheel its going to be about 40 cm. Any previous ones ive removed with the wire , not great! all suggestions appreciated. julia
  11. Min thanks so much for the information. Ill have a look at those links and hopefully get it sorted. Cant wait to get started!
  12. Hi Min, Thanks for responding. Obviously I havent a clue what Im doing as I dont have a reciepe! I just mixed me regular clay with water until it was creamy. Then sieved, it looked smooth and about right which is why I thought it must be the molds.
  13. Hey Johnny, Im fairly sure the moulds were dry as they had been sitting in a shed for a few years, it seemed fairly waterproof. Ive looked up the mould thing and found that its overuse of sodium silicate seeped into the capillaries of the mold. This doesnt explain why the slip wasnt drying, it still isnt two days later! I might try cleaning with bleach then drying off in the oven. Cheers , Julia
  14. Hi, have you tried using letter stamps, they work great in clay! Julia
  15. Hi All, First time slip casting . Ive mixed my own smooth earthenware slip to a creamy consistency and poured. I expected to leave for about an hour before removing the moulds, however after leaving overnight they are still too soft. Also there is a white mold growing on the plaster mould!. Could it be that they are too damp, I did have to clean with a damp sponge . thanks so much Julia
  16. thank you I have his book and am making my way through it, very informative
  17. Thanks Denice, first time doing this so learning fast. Im planning on adding silica sand to my earthenware clay , does that sound like the right thing to do?
  18. Hi all, Im very excited to be making a raku kiln, now I'm new to this method so will be firing some raku Q's at you all. Be prepared for some daft ones! first up, Is there an ideal temperature to fire a stoneware clay to bisque if wanting to do a raku glaze firirng? Has anyone a glaze recipe for a beautiful blue or green, or is there a good resource for raku recipes somewhere? Thats it for now, be warned I may be back! Julia
  19. I just logged back in to find all this amazing information, thanks to all of you Ill take my time sifting through all the info. The digger came yesterday to clear the site and apart from unearthing a power cable its all gone smoothly. Julia
  20. Wow thanks dh Potter, Denice & Pres, some brilliant suggestions that I simply wouldn't have thought of. Denice, I have an electric front loader and its always damp here in the west coast of Ireland, so much so my kiln is starting to rust in my current studio. Oiled tops, brilliant Ive always used canvas but yes so dusty! Thanks so much this has really helped, as always Julia
  21. I am fortunate to be getting a brand new studio, lucky me! its 32ft x 16ft and will be an empty shell. Im looking for peoples recomendations for setting up an ideal studio setup, ie where to put things, dry /wet area. Ill be holding workshops in it during the summer as well as making my own work. Im looking also for the best way to incorporate a drying area. Thanks so much Julia
  22. Hi all, Ive two questions which probably should be in different sections but easier to do as one. So first is there a way to hide the joints between two slabs? Second is there a way to make eathenware waterproof? Thanks for your wisdom, Julia
  23. Hi I think I didnt convert F - C ( Im in Ireland so we use C) Thanks Neil, I wish you were over here so you could just programme it for me!!, I need my own technician
  24. Hi Neil I mean it can be programmed to reach a temp in a certain amount of time then another temp in a given time, then a holding time then a cooling time. It has pre programmes but these are too fat for what I want.
  25. Hi all, I had a problem with slabs, not too thick , cracking and exploding. From posting in this forum on another thread i realized that my firing schedule was too fast. I need to drive off any moisture in the slabs. I have a Nabertherm B130 controller which has 4 ramps and two temp ramps. Im looking for recommendation for a firing schedule, that will drive off moisture. I can candle but then i cant bisque fire in same schedule as there isnt enough temp ramps. Any help very much welcome. thanks Julia
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