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Versaink Transfers


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#1 Claire Tietje

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Posted 06 September 2010 - 07:19 PM

Hi. Is anyone using versaink and transparencies? I'm looking for a clear glaze that doesn't turn the image brownish. I've attached a photo of a bottle I made with a transfer on it. I dipped it in cone 5 Kate the Younger clear glaze and then wiped off the front. The image is crisp, but brownish instead of black.Attached File  BB Plover Bottle72dpi.jpg   70.51KB   53 downloads

#2 jo4550

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Posted 08 September 2010 - 06:42 PM

Hi. Is anyone using versaink and transparencies? I'm looking for a clear glaze that doesn't turn the image brownish. I've attached a photo of a bottle I made with a transfer on it. I dipped it in cone 5 Kate the Younger clear glaze and then wiped off the front. The image is crisp, but brownish instead of black.Attached File  BB Plover Bottle72dpi.jpg   70.51KB   53 downloads




Hi Claire

Versaink is is a MICR ink for inkjet printers. A quick look in Wikipedia explains that "Magnetic Ink Character Recognition, or MICR, is a character recognition technology used primarily by the banking industry to facilitate the processing of cheques. The technology allows computers to read information (such as account numbers) off of printed documents. Unlike barcodes or similar technologies, however, MICR codes can be easily read by humans. MICR characters are printed in special typefaces with a magnetic ink or toner, usually containing iron oxide"So the main component in this black ink is IRON OXIDE. Iron Oxide will always go brown on bisqued ceramics and under clear glazes. This is using the same premise as certain black laser toners. I am afraid if you want black you will have to use an overload of oxides using iron oxide, cobalt, chrome and manganese. However this would then have to be screenprinted. Black ink/toner for ceramics does exist for use in industry but the printers and inks/toners are way out of the average persons budget.




Cheers

Johanna



#3 Claire Tietje

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Posted 08 October 2010 - 08:54 PM

Thanks Johanna. Since I posed the question on this forum I checked with my local ceramics supplier and he said zinc in the glazes was the problem and recommended a couple zinc-free glazes to try. And he was right! So now I can get true black images. I've found two ^06 and two ^6 glazes that work great.

#4 jo4550

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Posted 09 October 2010 - 05:24 PM

Hi Claire
Good to hear that you sorted your problem. I am keen to hear though, about the nature of Versa Inks. When I first read your query I googled Versaink and came up with the Magnetic Ink Recognition and applying first principles deducted that like the laser decals, the iron oxide would go a sepia to brown colour. However on reading your reply I am now thinking that you may not have been referring to printer inks rather the stamping inks used in papercraft(Versa ink colour cubes). As a matter of interest could you let me know which ones you were referring to as I am interested in updating my knowledge base.

Regards
Johanna

#5 pam sinclair

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Posted 17 October 2010 - 12:22 PM

Thanks Johanna. Since I posed the question on this forum I checked with my local ceramics supplier and he said zinc in the glazes was the problem and recommended a couple zinc-free glazes to try. And he was right! So now I can get true black images. I've found two ^06 and two ^6 glazes that work great.


Would you share your recipes??

I have been using a ^6 Majolica that has been pitting when refired at a^04.Any information is appreciated.

Thanks, Pam

#6 Claire Tietje

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Posted 17 October 2010 - 06:59 PM


Thanks Johanna. Since I posed the question on this forum I checked with my local ceramics supplier and he said zinc in the glazes was the problem and recommended a couple zinc-free glazes to try. And he was right! So now I can get true black images. I've found two ^06 and two ^6 glazes that work great.


Would you share your recipes??

I have been using a ^6 Majolica that has been pitting when refired at a^04.Any information is appreciated.

Thanks, Pam


I've attached a pdf file with some specifics of what I use. I hope you can read it. If not, I'll try a different method.

Attached Files



#7 jo4550

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Posted 17 October 2010 - 07:23 PM

Hi Claire
Thank you for the information in the .pdf. I can see now that you are using this on raw clay. My headspace was coming from overglaze decals. I am very curious to find out what else is in the Versa Ink besides magnetic iron oxide to make the iron turn black under a glaze. As far as I am aware an overload of iron, cobalt, manganese and chrome together make an underglaze black. I will be interested in trying this in my work.

Regards
Johanna

#8 Claire Tietje

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Posted 18 October 2010 - 11:36 PM

Hi Claire
Thank you for the information in the .pdf. I can see now that you are using this on raw clay. My headspace was coming from overglaze decals. I am very curious to find out what else is in the Versa Ink besides magnetic iron oxide to make the iron turn black under a glaze. As far as I am aware an overload of iron, cobalt, manganese and chrome together make an underglaze black. I will be interested in trying this in my work.

Regards
Johanna

Johanna DeMaine

http://johanna.demaine.org
http://overglaze.info
http://allthatissublime.com


You're welcome Johanna. I hope you have good success. I have no idea what is actually in the ink, I just know it works and I'm enjoying the new tool. Let me know if I can be of any further assistance. Claire

#9 Claire Tietje

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Posted 02 November 2010 - 11:01 AM

Hi, Johanna. Thought you'd like to see a photo of my most recent favorite image transfer piece. It's a White-crowned sparrow image. Claire


Hi Claire
Thank you for the information in the .pdf. I can see now that you are using this on raw clay. My headspace was coming from overglaze decals. I am very curious to find out what else is in the Versa Ink besides magnetic iron oxide to make the iron turn black under a glaze. As far as I am aware an overload of iron, cobalt, manganese and chrome together make an underglaze black. I will be interested in trying this in my work.

Regards
Johanna

Johanna DeMaine

http://johanna.demaine.org
http://overglaze.info
http://allthatissublime.com


You're welcome Johanna. I hope you have good success. I have no idea what is actually in the ink, I just know it works and I'm enjoying the new tool. Let me know if I can be of any further assistance. Claire



#10 Claire Tietje

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Posted 02 November 2010 - 11:03 AM

I don't know if I attached the photo or not. I think I'll just change my profile picture to the new image transfer piece. Hope you have a great day.

#11 potterjo

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Posted 05 January 2011 - 10:33 PM

Claire,
Saw your white crown sparrow in the latest issue of Clay Times...so started researching. Thank you for your great directions. Of course they do not make the ink for my printer...but it would probably be best to have a dedicated printer just for doing the transfers. What brand and model of printer do you use?
Thanks,
Jo

ps your husbands paintings are beautiful too!

#12 Claire Tietje

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Posted 05 January 2011 - 11:43 PM

Claire,
Saw your white crown sparrow in the latest issue of Clay Times...so started researching. Thank you for your great directions. Of course they do not make the ink for my printer...but it would probably be best to have a dedicated printer just for doing the transfers. What brand and model of printer do you use?
Thanks,
Jo

ps your husbands paintings are beautiful too!



#13 Claire Tietje

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Posted 05 January 2011 - 11:54 PM

Hi, Jo.
I do have a separate printer with the versaink in it so I don't have to change cartridges. When I ordered the ink they sent me a free printer. It is a basic model made by lexmark. The only problem is that it doesn't work with mac computers so I have a pc laptop attached to it. They say it can work with a mac running pc emulation, but I don't know how to do that. I think it's extra software. I do know someone who switches the cartridge out of the printer they use for everything else, so that is possible too. They have quite a few cartridges available as well as a refill kit.

Thanks for the compliments for Gerry's paintings, I'll pass that along.

Best wishes for your transfers. The biggest tip I can give you is that the clay must not be dry to the touch. I sponge on a little water and scrape it off with the wide putty knife, immediately I apply the transfer using the putty knife again (after wiping it off.) Wait a few minutes, then slowly peel the plastic off. Then I blast it with a little heat from a heat gun to dry the surface of the image so I don't mess it up.

Claire

#14 Claire Tietje

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Posted 05 January 2011 - 11:55 PM


Claire,
Saw your white crown sparrow in the latest issue of Clay Times...so started researching. Thank you for your great directions. Of course they do not make the ink for my printer...but it would probably be best to have a dedicated printer just for doing the transfers. What brand and model of printer do you use?
Thanks,
Jo

ps your husbands paintings are beautiful too!


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