White Shino?

[HAUKSBEE]

Just saw an example of a "White Shino" in the latest Ceramics Monthly. I've never heard of this, but it looks really great. Anyone know a formula for White Shino?

[Guest JBaymore]

Just saw an example of a "White Shino" in the latest Ceramics Monthly. I've never heard of this, but it looks really great. Anyone know a formula for White Shino?

 

 

Contact Malcolm for how he did that plate. My guess is simply remove the redart from his usual carbon trap formula and put the glaze on a white body.

 

Actual Japanese Shino is very different looking in general from American Shino. Historically it was mainly a white glaze with limited reddish fire color areas. I often bring out some of the Japanese shino ware that I own when I do workshops, and quite often American potters do not even recognize it AS being a shino piece .

 

I have used Shinos in Japan, and the composition varys a bit from potter to potter. Basically it is composed of a feldspathic rock similar to somthing akin to a cross between nepehline syenite and a feldspar at about 90 to 95 percent, and a kaolin making up the remainder of the 100 percent. The usual suspension is water with an additive made of decomposed seaweed acting as a binder / suspension agent. This also adds in a tad of sodium from the salt in the seaweed.

 

Traditionally it also is fired lower than the typical American Orton cone 9-10 for Shinos. And usually fired for long extended firings. The traditional rock is processed via a stamper mill, and is a relatively coarse particle. This requires the long firing to sinter the rough non-water ground particles together at first to get that unique surface quality.

 

Japanese Shino does not carbon trap. Traditionally the Japanese considered carbon trapping basically as a defect.

 

Do some tests using neph sy at about 90 percent and EPK at about 10%. Vary to taste. If you want carbon trapping, try dropping the neph sy to about 80 to 85 percent and add in soda ash for the difference.

 

best,

 

.............john

[HAUKSBEE]

Thank you, JBaymore. When you said 'Contact Malcom...' I went back to the pic. in Ceramics Monthly to find out 'Malcom who?' Malcom Davis? And why should that ring a bell? Because in John Britt's "The Complete Guide To High-Fire Glazes" they give the formula for 'Malcom's Shino'. Thank you for helping my neurons make the necessary connections.

 

MALCOM'S SHINO

 

40.9 Nepheline Syenite

9.8 F-4 Feldspar

18.2 Kaolin

13.8 Ball Clay

6.0 Redart Clay (optional)

17.3 Soda Ash

[Guest master_mister17]

hello..u can try this formula to do a shino glaze..

 

whiting = 19.0

Feldspar = 73

Flint = 0.8

Bentonite = 0.3

 

Hope this formula can help for your furture

 

 

[HAUKSBEE]

hello..u can try this formula to do a shino glaze..

 

whiting = 19.0

Feldspar = 73

Flint = 0.8

Bentonite = 0.3

 

Hope this formula can help for your furture

 

 

Is this a 'white' shino as illustrated above, or rust red?

[Rex Johnson]

...hopefully not OT, but I just fired a Shino ^5 test glaze in a reduction and it turned completely white.

I haven't a clue what it's suppose to do, but all white?

[HAUKSBEE]

...hopefully not OT, but I just fired a Shino ^5 test glaze in a reduction and it turned completely white.

I haven't a clue what it's suppose to do, but all white?

 

Shinos that I've used in the past tend to go rust red where thin, white where thick. Did you apply your test glaze thickly?

[Signtester]

On 9/5/2010 at 11:19 AM, HAUKSBEE said:

Thank you, JBaymore. When you said 'Contact Malcom...' I went back to the pic. in Ceramics Monthly to find out 'Malcom who?' Malcom Davis? And why should that ring a bell? Because in John Britt's "The Complete Guide To High-Fire Glazes" they give the formula for 'Malcom's Shino'. Thank you for helping my neurons make the necessary connections.

 

MALCOM'S SHINO

 

40.9 Nepheline Syenite

9.8 F-4 Feldspar

18.2 Kaolin

13.8 Ball Clay

6.0 Redart Clay (optional)

17.3 Soda Ash

Do you know if this will be white if the Redart is left out?  Thanks

[Dick White]

I don't have any experience with cone 10 shinos as I fire my gas kiln to cone 6. In my experience with shinos at cone 6, recipes with redart will be toasty brown while recipes with only ball clay will be white. Recipes that are nominally white will turn toasty brown where thin and on a brown (i.e., iron-bearing) clay body. Recipes that have a lot of soda ash will carbon trap if reduction is started early, around cone 012, and reduction maintained all the way through. If you do all the various tricks to get streaks and patches of non-carbon-trap with a carbon trapping recipe, the same "rules" apply for the color of the streaks and patches. Yes, I have achieved a black with white streaks carbon-trap shino on white stoneware.

[Callie Beller Diesel]

I used to work with something similar when I still fired cone 10. It'll be kind of fat and cream coloured where thick, with more hints of orange where thin. It won't be a true white, and it likely won't look like the carbon trapped piece in the original post.