GEP Posted July 4, 2010 Report Share Posted July 4, 2010 Just gave myself a bad reputation by trying to delete a duplicate post. opps! I counteracted your accidental mouse click, and restored your good name :-) -Mea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted July 4, 2010 Report Share Posted July 4, 2010 Just gave myself a bad reputation by trying to delete a duplicate post. opps! I counteracted your accidental mouse click, and restored your good name :-) -Mea Thank you Mea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyndi Posted July 5, 2010 Report Share Posted July 5, 2010 Just gave myself a bad reputation by trying to delete a duplicate post. opps! I counteracted your accidental mouse click, and restored your good name :-) -Mea Thank you Mea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyndi Posted July 5, 2010 Report Share Posted July 5, 2010 Hi All, I am fairly new at clay; experientially but loving it all my life. I started experimenting in paper clay recently and being eager to try on my own I have been mixing w/an auger and sometimes by hand my own paper clay. I use whatever clay I have already; ie cinca blanco, cinca roja or B-mix, all Cone 5 clays. I have read and now am rereading Rosette Gault's PAPER CLAY. I do mostly handbuilding. I succeeeded w/a bird bath in two parts totalling 27". It came out beautiful. It was mixed w/the auger and low fired all the way. Then I made meditation sculpture and the base was a lilly pond. It was handmixed, B-mix clay w/cheap toilet paper, low fire bisqued after drying for two weeks. It made it great thru the bisque firing and held 5 quarts of water w/no leaks or cracks. I was sooooo excited. THEN I glazed it w/Coyote Clay Cone 5 glazes and fired it at Cone 5 alone for nothing else would fit. When I took it out I was devastated. It had split vertically on one shoulder and horizontally on the other and straight down the front center between the hands. The glaze job was beautiful and it held about an inch of water but that was it. I can't figure out why it survived the bisque firing but not the glaze firing. Any help would be greatly appreciated becuz I love working w/paper clay. Thanks, Cyndi P.S. I have a Paragon Electric 27" kiln. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted July 7, 2010 Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 Hi All, I am fairly new at clay; experientially but loving it all my life. I started experimenting in paper clay recently and being eager to try on my own I have been mixing w/an auger and sometimes by hand my own paper clay. I use whatever clay I have already; ie cinca blanco, cinca roja or B-mix, all Cone 5 clays. I have read and now am rereading Rosette Gault's PAPER CLAY. I do mostly handbuilding. I succeeeded w/a bird bath in two parts totalling 27". It came out beautiful. It was mixed w/the auger and low fired all the way. Then I made meditation sculpture and the base was a lilly pond. It was handmixed, B-mix clay w/cheap toilet paper, low fire bisqued after drying for two weeks. It made it great thru the bisque firing and held 5 quarts of water w/no leaks or cracks. I was sooooo excited. THEN I glazed it w/Coyote Clay Cone 5 glazes and fired it at Cone 5 alone for nothing else would fit. When I took it out I was devastated. It had split vertically on one shoulder and horizontally on the other and straight down the front center between the hands. The glaze job was beautiful and it held about an inch of water but that was it. I can't figure out why it survived the bisque firing but not the glaze firing. Any help would be greatly appreciated becuz I love working w/paper clay. Thanks, Cyndi P.S. I have a Paragon Electric 27" kiln. Could it have cooled too fast? Large pieces can easily dunt on cooling which eems to be the case as per your description of the straight cracks. You could try insulating your kiln with a fiber blanket on the lid, program to down fire, keep the peep plugs in the peeps, fire with a lid inside the kiln towards the top, or fire with a more densely packed load. If you fired this piece alone, the kiln may have cooled off too quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyndi Posted July 7, 2010 Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 Hi All, I am fairly new at clay; experientially but loving it all my life. I started experimenting in paper clay recently and being eager to try on my own I have been mixing w/an auger and sometimes by hand my own paper clay. I use whatever clay I have already; ie cinca blanco, cinca roja or B-mix, all Cone 5 clays. I have read and now am rereading Rosette Gault's PAPER CLAY. I do mostly handbuilding. I succeeeded w/a bird bath in two parts totalling 27". It came out beautiful. It was mixed w/the auger and low fired all the way. Then I made meditation sculpture and the base was a lilly pond. It was handmixed, B-mix clay w/cheap toilet paper, low fire bisqued after drying for two weeks. It made it great thru the bisque firing and held 5 quarts of water w/no leaks or cracks. I was sooooo excited. THEN I glazed it w/Coyote Clay Cone 5 glazes and fired it at Cone 5 alone for nothing else would fit. When I took it out I was devastated. It had split vertically on one shoulder and horizontally on the other and straight down the front center between the hands. The glaze job was beautiful and it held about an inch of water but that was it. I can't figure out why it survived the bisque firing but not the glaze firing. Any help would be greatly appreciated becuz I love working w/paper clay. Thanks, Cyndi P.S. I have a Paragon Electric 27" kiln. Could it have cooled too fast? Large pieces can easily dunt on cooling which eems to be the case as per your description of the straight cracks. You could try insulating your kiln with a fiber blanket on the lid, program to down fire, keep the peep plugs in the peeps, fire with a lid inside the kiln towards the top, or fire with a more densely packed load. If you fired this piece alone, the kiln may have cooled off too quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyndi Posted July 7, 2010 Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 Thanks Marcia for the quick reply. I was stumped. It sounds like it was the last option. I couldn't put any other pieces in because it filled the bottom shelf and no room for posts to put another shelf and when I tried the reverse, smaller pieces first and posts it made it too high to close the lid. So it was alone w/lots of space above it. But your options raised another question (which shows how much research and further studying on kiln firing I need. I was told I didn't need to put peep plugs in, so I never have. What are the ins and outs of this decision? Do you have any workshops in Brownsville. I am in Louisiana and desparately in need of some, but don't know how to choose which ones come first. I have two years study at the local university in ceramics, but am winging it alone now. Thanks once again. Cyndi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted July 8, 2010 Report Share Posted July 8, 2010 Thanks Marcia for the quick reply. I was stumped. It sounds like it was the last option. I couldn't put any other pieces in because it filled the bottom shelf and no room for posts to put another shelf and when I tried the reverse, smaller pieces first and posts it made it too high to close the lid. So it was alone w/lots of space above it. But your options raised another question (which shows how much research and further studying on kiln firing I need. I was told I didn't need to put peep plugs in, so I never have. What are the ins and outs of this decision? Do you have any workshops in Brownsville. I am in Louisiana and desparately in need of some, but don't know how to choose which ones come first. I have two years study at the local university in ceramics, but am winging it alone now. Thanks once again. Cyndi When firing you can leave the top peep plug out but plug the rest. When you reach the temperature, plug all peeps to avoid drafts. I am working in my own small studio and not doing workshops here. I may be doing some next summer and fall. When confirmed, I will post on Event forum. I had a busy year last year. Quiet this year. Getting lots of ideas worked out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee Sota Posted November 19, 2010 Report Share Posted November 19, 2010 I would like to bisque fire paper clay pieces in the RAKU kiln. Can you please tell me the degrees I need to reach bisque? Thank you for you help. Dee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted November 22, 2010 Report Share Posted November 22, 2010 I would ask why do you want to bisque your paper clay sculpture in a raku kiln. Paper clay holds more moisture that other clays. Fire slowly. I fire my paper clay large slabs very slowly to between ^06 and ^04. I also hold the temperature at 200 F for an hour before going hotter to get rid of moisture. It takes me over 12 hours to bisque fire. Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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