Coyote glaze - Black crawl

[AlexCeramics]

Hi has anyone used th coyote glaze Black Crawl? I was wondering if it ever came out truly black. In my tests, it was more if a dark brownish/greenish gray. It was blackish, i suppose, but wasn't sure if it was capable of being truly black. Thanks.

[AlexCeramics]

I had forgotten I asked this question, but figured I'd report back with my findings a year and a half later.

 

This is in a Cone 6 electric kiln. This might be more obvious to some than others, but what I ended up doing was just painting black underglaze from Amaco right over the Coyote Black Crawl. I painted it on thin pretty much right after the black crawl dried, but before it really started to crack (The black crawl cracks as it dries to achieve the effect). It came out nice and black! This also works with other colors of underglaze as well.

[AtomicAxe]

I'm assuming you mean this glaze?

 

http://www.theceramicshop.com/store/product/6079/Black-Crawl-Pint/

 

If so, even in the picture you can tell it's not fully black. That comes from the RIO in the glaze oxidizing since it is a rather dry glaze in most crawls. The talc does this. If you want a truly black crawl, you may need to make your own and include more flux in the glaze so it's forced to slightly gloss over ... it will soften the crawl, but less oxide oxidation will occur as it will be more trapped in the glaze and thus having a harder time to react. Just remember, when designing a black glaze, RIO, Cobalt and Manganese are your oxides, so aim for more cobalt than rio and it will also push that shift from brown to black. .... Or use a black mason stain and you will truly have black without variegated coloring.

[Mark C.]

Most blacks are an over saturation of colorants.

My cone 10 black (which is shiny to matt depending on how hot) is about 3-4% cobalt oxide

Its been super dependable vs blacks with iron in them.

Mark