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RogueArtist

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  1. RogueArtist

    Soda-Ash Wash Food Safe?

    I agree that salt fired pots are durable with the sodium aluminum silicate glaze formed on them in the firing. I don’t think the alumina and silica from the clay body interact with the sodium to the same degree with a wash in cone 6 electric firings as happens in a salt (or soda) firing. What temperature is a traditional salt/soda firing? Does anyone do cone 6 salt/soda firing (the traditional way in a gas kiln)? Or is cone 6 just not hot enough for the chemicals to interact properly? (Sorry if this is a basic question - I looked online but I can't seem to find a cone # for traditional salt firing!) PS: Thanks for all the replies!
  2. Hello everyone, I've been reading about using a soda-ash wash fired to cone 5-6 on bare clay to give it a slight shine. Would this be ok to use on dinnerware as long as the clay beneath was vitrified? Would the surface be too soft and scratch/fade/dissolve in the dishwasher? Even if I use a liner on the inside I'm still worried about the outside surface changing over time. Does anyone here used soda/salt glazes on functional work? How do they behave? Any information/experience would be appreciated!
  3. RogueArtist

    Kiln Firing Slowly

    Neilstrick - oops! I meant 240 - big difference! I have to go try your suggestions. When I check the ohms through the power cord should there be a difference at different switch settings? DirtRoad, the kiln is rated for cone 10 but I have never fired it that high. My usual schedule is 04 bisque and 5 glaze. Thanks everybody!
  4. RogueArtist

    Kiln Firing Slowly

    The kiln had been slowing down until one day it wouldn't come up to temperature. That's when I replaced the elements and it worked fine for a few firings. However after 4 firings the top element burned out. It glowed brightly at one spot and then melted itself in two along the double-stranded section that passes through the ceramic holder out of the kiln. I don't know why that happened, there was nothing in the holder, the wiring was triple checked, and it wasn't touching any other wire/shorting out. Anyway, I replaced the top element, then did an empty firing to break it in. That firing went as I expected (faster because the kiln was empty, all the elements were glowing and the switches were behaving normally). This past firing (the 19 hour one) is the first 'real' firing after replacing the top element. I checked the olms for each element and they were within the right range, I also checked the electricity at the plug and we are getting 140 (and it's a 140 kiln) so that should be good. I guess there's not a way to see how much current it's actually drawing without trying to fire it again? Thanks for the replies!
  5. RogueArtist

    Kiln Firing Slowly

    Hello all, So I have a small manual electric kiln. It's 30-40 years old (free from someone who was going to toss it). It's been running ok, but recently I've been having problems with excessively long firing times. Yesterday I started the firing at 6:30 in the morning and wasn't finished until 2:00 am! 19 hours! I'm firing to cone 5. I just replaced the elements last month, the wiring is all new, and I replaced the switches. All the wiring/electrical has been double and triple checked. I don't know what else could be wrong with it. It is coming to temperature just ​very slowly. The kiln is an L&L J18 manual 16"x18". Advice anyone? Thanks in advance!
  6. Hello everyone, I've been shopping around for kilns and think I've finally settled on an L&L E23. My question is, are the eQuad elements worth it? Do they really fire significantly better/last longer than regular elements? Does anyone have any experience with them? How hard are they to replace? Any advice would be welcome. Thanks!
  7. RogueArtist

    Blisters In Electric Kiln

    Thanks for the replies everyone! Neilestrick, I've been using a pre-mixed pint glaze, I just bought the dry but haven't mixed it up yet. Sorry if that wasn't clear. I'm going to fire again in a few days and try a couple of different things (1/2 hour soak, different glazes on middle shelves, and try the stoned denim in different thicknesses) and take some notes and see where I stand after that. Wish me luck!
  8. RogueArtist

    Blisters In Electric Kiln

    Thanks for replying everyone! Bill, it's one of my favorite glazes too (why its so frustrating now!), it usually comes out great. One question, could you define regular cool down, do you just turn the kiln off or do you step it down? Giselle, I brush the glaze on, 3 coats inside and 4 outside (because it usually comes out thin outside), but I recently bought some dry so I can try dipping. My clay is a mix of Standard s710, s112 and s308. Mixed because I recycle them together. The recycling batch is the same as previous firings that came out good. BTW, beautiful mug! You slip-trialed the texture? I thought maybe the problem was with the firing? Because I just replaced the elements? Thanks again! R
  9. Hello everyone, I'm looking for advice on glaze blisters. I have been firing a manual 18" electric kiln for around a year with generally good results except for slight 'orange peel' texture and very small pins that I can't seem to get rid of. My problem now however is with larger burst blisters. The kiln does not have a vent or a pyrometer, I fire the first half of the cycle with both peepholes out, and the last portion with the top peephole out. The glaze/clay combination in question has fired consistently well until now. I just replaced the kiln elements. I bought the kiln used and have never before replaced the elements (didn't know any better). One day the kiln didn't go up to temperature and I checked the elements. They were in really bad shape, very bunched in places/fused together, and almost strait in others. So I replaced the elements and fried an empty kiln to cone 04 load to break in the elements, and then a full bisque fire to cone 04. I glazed the pieces from this bisque and fired to cone 5 following my usual glaze-fire procedure (below) 2.5 hour soak on low to burn out excess moisture from glazing Put the top knob on 5 and the bottom on 6 1.5 hours to glowing elements put in bottom peephole 4.5 hours to bright red, raised bottom knob to 7 1 hour to very bright red raised top knob to 10 and bottom to high 3 hours lowered top slightly because it seemed to be firing fast 5 hours to end Total firing time 17.5 hours (about the same time as with my old elements) According to my cones the top and bottom were both fired identically to cone 5 (not over or under fired at all). The middle shelf did not have a cone on it (my bad I forgot) so I don't know the exact temperature. Usually (with my old elements) the middle shelf fires 1/2 a cone higher than the top and bottom, but with my glazes this is not usually a problem. My problem with blisters was only on the middle shelf. The top and bottom shelves had the normal small pinning and orange-pealing, and one or two random blisters, but all the pieces on the middle shelf were covered in blisters. The same glaze on the top and bottom shelves fired fine. The blisters are open, I can see the clay through them. The blistering is only on the exterior of the pots and is fairly evenly distributed, although there seem to be a greater number of blisters along the 'hip' of the bowl (where it flares out from the base). There also seem to be slightly more blisters on the sides of ware facing the elements. The colors all developed like they were supposed to. The glaze that blistered was Mayco Stoned Denim applied to 3 coats on interior and 4 coats on exterior of bowls. The glaze claims to fire fine from cones 5-6 up to cone 10, so I don't think over-firing is the problem. The clay is cone 4-6. I have not had a problem before with this glaze or clay so I think it must be something with the firing process or to do with the new elements. Sorry for the long post, just trying to give as much information as possible since there are so many variables. I'd really appreciate some advice on how to fix this problem/why it might have happened. Thanks in advance!
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