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g-bus

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About g-bus

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    Shenandoah Valley, VA

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  1. Good call, I think that's how I'm going to go, and just seal the heck out of the edges. The local Re-Store has a nice selection of colors, and I'm giving my friend a much better deal than I realized at first so not really trying to make this harder than it needs to be. This wheel really isn't worth too much effort. Still boggles my mind why Brent thought using exposed particle board was a good idea.
  2. Thanks for the input gentlemen. Thinking replacement is the way to go. Brent wants about $100 for the piece and $75 to ship for the old style, so I'm going to pass on that. Probably end up going with a mix of plywood and HDPE or PVC if I can find a decent deal. I'm not trying to drop $150 for a 1" thick piece of HDPE. I'm going to check with our local plastic processing facility and see if they can help me out. They were super generous when I was teaching Tech Ed and stopped by there to take a tour for potential field trips. Or maybe just go on the cheap and grab a piece of laminate countertop from the Habitat Re-Store. I'll let you know how/if it turns out.
  3. Thanks Neil. Yeah, I was pretty much thinking that replacing it is the way to go. If the damage was just out towards the edge I might be able to do some sort of patch job, but structurally I don't see how I could make that stable. This project just got a lot more involved.
  4. Hey folks, I have an older Brent IE wheel that I'm getting fixed up to sell to a friend. I purchased it used and I think it may have been stored in a shed that wasn't very dry. The table (not sure if that's the proper term for it, but close enough) is like particle board/pressboard/melamine/whatever (why they though it was a good idea to use that around something that routinely gets wets I have no idea) is soft and spongy through a large section of it so I was thinking of possibly trying to cut out that area and fitting in a couple of pieces of plywood glued together. It's too big of an area for just wood filler or something like that, and feels like some of it is has really broken down so I doubt wood hardener would help. I'm not sure if the problem extends all the way to the where the wheel head is mounted, but if so I'm thinking I should just try to make a whole new table for it. Yeah, probably more work than it's worth but I'm trying to help a friend out with an affordable wheel. Was thinking the same idea, glue together a few sheets of plywood to get the appropriate thickness and then use the old table as a template to cut it out and match up all of the holes, then a few coats of poly, or if I can successfully get the existing laminate off of the top of the old table I could glue that back on top. Any thoughts, suggestions, potential issues or general input on this? Thanks!
  5. Yeah, the 3/4 plug/receptacle combo had me scratching my head too, thinking maybe somebody did some......creative wiring. But upon closer inspection I saw that the ring, or section, is for an AA-8 B, which apparently does have a different plug configuration than the A-88. Same size, different plugs. And glad Paragon doesn't make their model numbers confusing or or anything (A-88B, AA-8B). Thanks for all the input.
  6. Thanks for all of the input. I finally got around to switching the receptacle back so I could test the outlet on the kiln and it does have power. Just haven't found a matching plug for it yet so will have to hit up some of the local specialty electrical supply places when I have time. But I have included some pics for your enjoyment. Thanks again.
  7. Hello, Another old kiln question. I've got an old Paragon A88-B that I'm getting ready to sell. It has an expansion ring and looks like someone had replaced the plug on the power cord for it with like a 14-20 or something similar (3 flat blades, one round) but the receiving outlet on the kiln is something like a 10-20 (3 flat blades). I've never fired it with the expansion ring installed because of this, but wanted to have a better idea of why it was set up this way before I sell it. I'm guessing that for whatever reason a previous owner was maybe just plugging the expansion ring directly into a matching wall outlet. Maybe the outlet on the kiln for it doesn't work (I probably should've tested that now that I think of it). Any thoughts? I just want to be able to give potential buyers as much info as possible in case they ask. Thanks a lot!
  8. Thanks for the info. That puts the L&L controller right in line with most of the others that I've been looking at in terms of price, but I assume it's quite a bit more involved as far as install goes, correct? If it's basically how Ronfire explained it then that's certainly within my realm of capability, just need to be sure I got all of the correct parts. Hmm, now you've got me thinking.....
  9. If you needed to go a little thicker maybe some pieces of Hardibacker or similar concrete backerboard?
  10. So after pestering you fine folks about rehabilitating on old Skutt 1027 I decided that I really didn't want to put a bunch of time and money into an old kiln that is not in the best shape, and instead am having a kiln rebuilt for me by a semi-local L&L distributer. It's basically a J230 with new electronics and elements, however it has a manual controller. I really want to go with an electronic controller and apparently to retrofit this one with a hardwired version was not really going to be cost-effective so am looking at wall-mount/plug-in styles. From my research it looks like my options would be something like the Skutt wall-mount Kilnmasters, an Orton Autofire, or a Rampmaster for the plug-in styles. And then there's the Electro Sitter, which from what I can determine looks like is a unit that replaces the kiln sitter, and then has the option of going with a few different control panels, of which the Bartlett V6-CF seems to be a pretty solid choice. I do really like the idea of the Genesis, but haven't found that as an option, so would require buying an Electro Sitter with a different control board and then replacing it with the Genesis, but that would be really expensive and kind of a waste for just a little bling on my kiln. Oh yeah, and then there are all those cheap controllers on eBay for under $100, and while I'm sure some are OK for certain uses, I'm pretty skeptical. So, I'm asking for some input and suggestions as to what would be a good option for me (just a hobbyist, not a production potter......yet). Obviously keeping the cost lower is better, but I want something quality that will be reliable and last a while, and that I won't outgrow in a year (even though I know I could get by with just a kiln sitter indefinitely). I'm comfortable doing some light electrical work if need be. Ok, one last thing, should I consider something that will control all three zones independently or just stick with a controller with one pyrometer? Having something that could adjust each zone independently sounds pretty cool, but from what I've read sounds like it can put a bit of extra strain on elements and relays. And if I really had issues with cold spots couldn't I potentially compensate for this by just adjusting the infinite switches, thereby eliminating the need for a 3-zone controller? Thanks so much for your help!
  11. Yep, a lesson I've learned all too well. If anyone has any suggestions of where to order from, or if I should just go straight through Skutt I'd appreciate it. Thanks again.
  12. Ok, guess you guys have convinced me to spring for the legit ones. Was hoping to save a few bucks, but sounds like it's prob worth the money for the longevity and ease of install. When I bought the kiln the guy told me he had a set of elements for it but not with him and he'd send them to me. Several attempts at contact and 2 years later still no elements. Shocker. Thanks again for the input.
  13. Thanks for the clarification! Looks like Euclids it is.
  14. Getting ready to order some new elements for my old Skutt 1027 that I've been working on rehabilitating. Had planned on ordering from Euclid but then came across these guys at kilnelements.com. They're asking $44/set with pins and connectors vs. $191 + about $18 for connectors at Euclid, and closer to $300 everywhere else. Haven't been able to find hardly any info on them so curious if they're of comparable quality. Thanks in advance for any input!
  15. Actually I'm pretty sure I ended up using a different clay for the handle. I was practicing pulling handles and I think I ended up going with one that was from a different bucket of clay (I've got a bunch of free clay from different sources that I've been trying to keep organized, but that's not exactly my strong suit). The handle is actually what the glaze is supposed to look like, so it's possible there were some clay/glaze compatibility issues. However most of the inside of the mug came out OK, so more likely it was my application.
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