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Karen B

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Everything posted by Karen B

  1. The manual should be updated for the Genesis. For such expensive and sensitive equipment it seem just negligent of L&L not to have an update.
  2. Old Lady, thanks for the suggestion. I will call Jim Bailey on Monday. Mark C, I will check out the PPugger Dies, Thanks Neil, yes, I did look at some, but at this point, I'd rather use what I have. Also, thanks all for the heads up about the pressure issue, and it is an issue according the Shimpo tech person, Their dies are almost all open. I am thinking that since I would be screwing the die into the exit, I could put a small nut under the screws so clay could spew out the sides of the die. And maybe making the circle an oval will also leave room to drill holes around it for pressure release. What do you think? I will let you know what comes back from Shimpo Japan.
  3. The augers stops well behind the exit opening. So with the u bolts, I wouldn't need a bridge. Is that correct? Thanks Min.
  4. Thanks Min for that insight. I called Shimpo and asked if I could get a blank die with just the screw holes drilled. They will call Japan and get back to me. She was concerned that the pressure might ruin the machine. I had looked at the die they sell and the whole plate is coverd with shapes. I asked her if the clay didn't heal back after going thru their die. She said it did stick together but was possible to peel apart. . . Thanks Hitchmss, love what you made, but I only do woodworking on the side, no tools or experience in metal. Thanks for the pics. I understand better what I am dealing with. I'm not sure why you have the 3 bars behind the hole. Will those make it a hollow form? As you can see, I really have no experience with extrusion. Thanks Mark.
  5. Thanks for your take Neil. I have not talked to Shimpo. I will do that. The tube would be 2.5" and prob 3/8th wall. I'm figuring it to be as big as I can to reduce the pressure. The opening of the pugmill is 3 6/8" width.
  6. Please search this title, Large Flat Pieces Cracking During Glaze Firing, there are many answers there that may help.
  7. I am considering paying North Star Equipment a lot of money to make a custom extrusion plate for my Shimpo NRA-04 pug mill. Prob well over $100+. What I need is a die to make a simple hollow form so I can easily extrude 100+ tubes for glaze testing. I want a tubular form so I can see the difference between the glaze on the inside of a form and the outside of a form. (In case you were wondering.) They offer plastic and metal. It would have the three screw holes as you can see in the picture below with sinkholes for the screws. Looking online, I see that Shimpo has a couple of dies they offer, but none of them fit my needs. Has anyone done this? Has anyone worked with this company? Do you think that sounds too pricey? I’m adding a few pictures of my pug mill. (Also wanted to show off my modification of the lever handle which I I turned to the side so I could pull it easier.) Thank you!
  8. Yes, I just now see the pin. I didn't previously as that side of kiln is towards the wall. So now I know. The kiln is 18" from wall in the corner of the room. I didn't like opening it beyond verticle because it doesn't seem to be weight assisted as it goes back, and would bang into the wall upsetting the alignment. But now that I know that it is supposed to go back, I can ease it back to it's intended stop point. At that point, there is no way it would fall forward, but I will use the pin. It is just extra effort to get it to that point and to close it till it gets to the weight assist point. Thank you for the help Neil
  9. I have a 10 cu ft L&L Kiln. It has a spring supported top for easy opening. The problem is, it has no catch to hold it securely opened. I have to use a lot of energy to make sure it doesn't fall closed, or fall backward. I seriously miss the door rest that was on my former Skutt. Am I missing something? What can I do to secure it? Thanks, Karen
  10. It was fascinating to see a video of a potter who worked with porcelain wearing all white. Made sense. I like yoga pants and low cut tee shirt. Feeling sexy helps me be creative.
  11. Ah..... but beware the Dark Side. WOOD firing! MMmmmmuuuuhhhhhhaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhaaaaaaaaaaaaaa! Electric leads to gas. And gas leads to soda and salt. And salt and soda lead to wood. Take over your life, it will. best, .........................john Yes, John, I have already heard the siren call of Salt! But one step at a time for me! Marc your positive mindset is very much in line with mine, Thank you. Karen
  12. Oh Marcia! How generous! I would do cone 6 reduction. I will be in touch. Thank you so much. Karen
  13. Thank you John, Neil, Mags, 1515, Oldlady, and Marc, from the bottom of my heart for your thoughtful answers! I will consider the information, read the material and talk to the people you have suggested. Mostly I will slow down and make sure I do it right.
  14. Hi, so it's been awhile since I've been here on this forum. We've empty nested and moved to NJ from Mass. My studio contents have been in storage for the last 7 months. In a few weeks, I will have a house and a studio again! I have been taking classes at TASOC in Demarest to stay sane. I fell hard for the reduction look there. Since I sold my electric kiln before we moved, I am in need of a new kiln and plan to buy a gas kiln and fire to cone 6. What I know: There is a natural gas line right near the garage wall where I will set up (indoors). I will need the right size fitting to the kiln for the gas. There is a high window that I can vent out of. I probably will get a Bailey.... OK, that's it! ha ha not much. Questions: -Can I bisque in the gas kiln? -How much of the time during the firing do I need to be doing something? -Will my cone 6 electric glazes look fabulous fired in reduction? -Things to consider when shopping for the kiln? -Please recommend a good step by step book for firing with gas and reducing. -I'd love to take a workshop but haven't seen anything.... have you? -What do I need to know? Thank you for any help! Karen Come see the reduction work I've done (but not fired myself) at Peter's Valley Craft Show Sept 24th and 25th!
  15. I have used Gare Lime Light. Which comes in a pint jar. Nice and shiny. Good for 06 - 04. http://www.gare.com/search.cfm#!prettyPhoto I have used a few of their other greens too, but I think Lime Light matches best.
  16. Marcia, when you have time, could you post a picture of your coils? I would greatly appreciate it. Karen
  17. Hi Jojess, I am going to say grog, (because that is what I use), in place of sand, (what you use). When I have grog stuck to the back of my plates, I rub the backs together and it comes off. Or I can use any fired flat bottom to rub off anything that sticks, like grog or kiln wash. The grog should be thin to avoid unevenness. I do leave the grog on my kiln shelves, however, I do rub the sides and bottom with a clean dry green scrubby before placing in the kiln to avoid any stray grains. I don't know if you saw it, but I described how to apply the grog to the shelf above. Hi Karen, thank you for your hints and tips..i used grog on my shelves for the first time and no cracks in my hearts yay!! I am now trying paperclay, rather than the porcelain that i have been using as someone suggested that it maybe more suited to my flat pieces. I have some more hearts drying so yet to see what they will do in the first firing. That sounds like a good idea Jo. Let us know how it works.
  18. Are you interested in large leaves? Like as much as 8" across?
  19. Hi Jojess, I am going to say grog, (because that is what I use), in place of sand, (what you use). When I have grog stuck to the back of my plates, I rub the backs together and it comes off. Or I can use any fired flat bottom to rub off anything that sticks, like grog or kiln wash. The grog should be thin to avoid unevenness. I do leave the grog on my kiln shelves, however, I do rub the sides and bottom with a clean dry green scrubby before placing in the kiln to avoid any stray grains. I don't know if you saw it, but I described how to apply the grog to the shelf above.
  20. Karen B

    3mugs

    Love your mugs!
  21. A word about putting grog (or sand) on your kiln shelves. I found that it doesn't need to be more than a thin coating. The easy way to get an even thin coating is to hold your hand about a foot or more over the shelf and sprinkle as you move over the entire surface. Of course you are far away from anything that doesn't need grog on it! Since putting grog on my kiln shelves, I have had no cracking.
  22. A question for those of you who single fire. Do you dip your entire pot in one glaze? I tried to single fire once, and I dipped the top quarter of the pot in one glaze, and when I could handle it and went to dip the bottom 3/4, it just broke right off at the edge of the first dip. When I went to dip a whole pot in glaze, it fell apart. So, what do you do?
  23. From the album: 2015

    Standard 112 clay, cone 6 ox
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