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Mossyrock

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Everything posted by Mossyrock

  1. I would like to transfer a drawing onto a moist clay slab. I have tried copying it on my printer then putting the print-side down & ribbing the back, but it doesn't transfer. Is there a certain type pen or marker I could use to trace the drawing onto paper (what kind?) that would then transfer to the slab? I've tried several types that I have around the house, but nothing works. I thought a dry erase marker on wax paper might work but it didn't. Thanks for any ideas. The transfer is for guidelines for carving so it's OK if they fire out.
  2. Humm, I tried it from this link and got the same message.
  3. Wow, beautiful pictures! I think that's a workshop I would have enjoyed and learned a lot. I use velvet underglazes and I use S&C, but I never thought of mixing the two together. Did she then put a clear glaze over everything?
  4. I think the thing I was missing was wetting the paper to make the ink transfer. I'll give it a try with water and, as Chris suggested, with rubbing alcohol. I'm looking for carving guidelines so it's fine if it burns out in the firing. Thank you.
  5. I will give that a try Chris. Thanks. I want the image to fire out....I just need it there to give me some carving guidelines. Did you use just regular bond paper?
  6. I am creating a scenic tile surround for my fireplace. The clay has a shrinkage rate of 9%. Do I take the measurements of the fireplace and add 9% then build the surround on that scale? What about space for the grout lines? The tiles won't be square....they'll be cut to work with the design of the scene (hopefully). This is the first time I've taken on a project this large and involved. I want to make sure my measurements are correct so it all fits properly. Thanks for any help and advice.
  7. LOL, my client is me so I'm pretty safe there. I just don't want to end up with huge grout lines. I will do a shrinkage test though just to be on the safe side. The 9% came from the manufacturer.
  8. Math makes my head hurt! My surround is 55 inches across the top and 35 inches tall. Each side is 9 inches wide. On one side I plan to carve a heron standing on a piece of driftwood and a few reeds. The other side will be carved cattails and reeds with a dragonfly. In the center of the top will be two intertwined heron feathers. The background is a very light sort of paragon repeat pattern. I thought I could measure out the entire piece, enlarged according to shrinkage rate, lay out the slabs and carve away, then cut the individual pieces so the grout lines would sort of be hidden within the design. Can I use your calculation method for the overall size then do the carving and cutting for grout lines as planned?
  9. Thank you Marcia! The first link gives me an error message. I'll check out the litho crayon on Amazon and the CAD video on litho process.
  10. I'm asking this for a friend who is not on the computer. She makes her own terra sig out of Red Art and her pottery is made using Highwater Clay's Stans Red clay. The sig buffs up beautifully if applied straight to the Stans Red on bone dry pieces. She recently started covering her leather hard pieces with a white slip (pieces are majolica decorated), then, after bisquing, glazes with her regular base glaze before applying the majolica colors. In her last session of making pieces, she wanted the bases of her mugs and vases to have a black terra sig instead of the red sig so she added black stain to it. It was applied on the bottoms of bone dry pieces that also had had slip applied. The color came out a beautiful black, but no matter how many layers, or how hard or long it was buffed, it would not form a sheen. On the final fired pieces the black terra sig is a very matt black. Is this because it is being applied over slip? Aside from adding the black stain, the addition of the slip is the only difference.
  11. Terra Sig Not Buffing Shiny

    Thank you Marcia. I will read definitely read and thank you for taking the time to post them.
  12. Terra Sig Not Buffing Shiny

    Yes, that's what I'm saying. Certainly, it does so over red clay body when fired to cone 03, and I can see no reason that it wouldn't do the same over a coloured slip. Well worth some experimentation, I would suggest. I always apply the sig to a bone dry body. The ball clay I use is something called Hyplas 71, but then I'm in Europe. That may or may not be available on your side of the pond. Essentially, it's a low-iron, white firing, high plasticity ball clay. I doubt if the exact make/type matters much, to be honest. I've always followed the Vince Pitelka method for making sig, but again, I doubt if that makes any difference to the end result. My only concern might be that cone 05 could be a little low to lose the milkiness of the sig - only one way to find out! --->> It's just occurred to me to suggest that your friend decants a small amount of sig into a cup before trying this, in case the brush takes up some of the (dry) stained slip, and transfers it back to the sig - you don't want to ruin a batch of sig with stained slip dust!! (Does that make sense? I think so...) Thank you! It's definitely worth a try. I'll see if I can find a similar ball clay and run a few experiments.
  13. Terra Sig Not Buffing Shiny

    Are you saying that after the glaze firing, the white sig you're using takes on whatever color it is applied over? Say if it was applied over a green underglaze, the sig would be green after it was glaze-fired? If that is the case, would you mind sharing which ball clay you use or do you think any would work? She glaze fires to 05.
  14. Terra Sig Not Buffing Shiny

    Thanks for the help everyone. After reading the comments, I believe it is probably the addition of the stain that has made the sig "unbuffable". If that's the case, how can she get a black sig? I know I've seen it used on other potter's pieces. She bisques to Cone 04 and glazes to Cone 05. The reason she started applying white slip to the Stans Red clay was to save on the base glaze. She only had to apply one coat (brushed on) of the base white glaze if the slip was on the piece. Otherwise she had to wait until the glaze dried then brush on another coat. She uses Stroke & Coat as her decorating glazes. Need to do a little experimenting......try the black sig on a test piece...... slip applied only to part of it and apply the sig across both areas. See what happens.
  15. The New Extruder

    I have the Northstar Big Blue extruder and, frankly, don't use it too often. Just haven't taken the time to mess with it. But, I needed a smaller hand-held extruder and made the one shown on the Ceramics Arts Daily website. It works well for my needs. I occasionally teach hand building classes and showed this extruder to the students…..several made their own and are happy with it. http://ceramicartsda...-clay-extruder/
  16. Thought I'd pass this along in case anyone occasionally needs an extra studio "table". I love it when something really works out I was visiting a friend who refurbishes old cars and he had a stand he was using outside to put fenders, doors, etc. on to work on them. I immediately think "that would be great in my studio"! So I bought one and I'll have to say, it has become my new favorite piece of equipment in the studio. It holds up to 200 lbs, but is lightweight and can easily be moved from place to place. Remember TV trays? Works like that……I place two pieces of sheetrock on it for the 'table top' and it's good to go. Whether I'm creating or glazing, I place it nearby for a surface to place pieces on. When I don't need it, it easily folds up and is out of the way. And, it's inexpensive! I caught it on sale for $19.99 and had a 20% off coupon! I've also used it for spray painting …… then I put an old piece of plywood on top…..doesn't matter if it gets paint on it. It's from Harbor Freight and is called a "Portable Work Stand". The picture shows it as I was using it to put pieces I've glazed on…..waiting to be finished with majolica decoration.
  17. Community Challenge #2

    Received my brownies this morning! They are awesome Becky……went GREAT with my morning cup of coffee! Thank you! Thank you! Hey guys…..get your challenge in; the brownies are worth the effort!
  18. Portable Studio Table

    One of the things I like about it is the leg configuration…..for instance, when I'm in glazing mode and not using my wheel, this can fit over my wheel and doesn't take up any more floor space in my studio.
  19. Community Challenge #2

    Final Entry - Mossyrock To me, spring is all about the birds singing and the gorgeous blooms after a long drab winter. So, my final entry is a vase for the blooms decorated with birds! (Thanks for reminding me that I can combine pics to show both sides.) Love this forum!
  20. slug Pic

    I like them both, but would probably pick the raku slug. Love their expressions! That's what makes them!
  21. Community Challenge #2

    I have removed the rule about one image, the reason it was there is because having 5 images per entry to take across to a results thread would be time consuming and each post I can only link 5 picture onto. I will still take one pictures into the final entry thread unless I feel two is really needed. If you want every picture in then do a composite of all pictures into one. Thanks! Now why didn't I think of combining the pictures of all sides into one in the first place????
  22. Community Challenge #2

    The rules posted above state that only one image be attached to an entry. Sometimes my work has four sides, each decorated totally different. So one image wouldn't really show the decoration for the entire piece. I could possibly photograph it at an angle to show two sides in one photograph, but the other side couldn't be shown. Is there anyone else out there that might have this same problem? (Well, not really a problem, but you know what I mean )
  23. When Do You Keep Your Own Stuff?

    A friend once told me that she keeps what she considers the best piece out of a firing …. at least until another piece comes out that she likes better. That's the way she gauges her progress. When she selects a 'better piece', she may sell the previous one. I've kind of adopted that idea, however, I haven't yet let go of a few pieces that I know I'll never recreate.
  24. Pres….I attended a workshop not long ago on using a die/stencil computer controlled cutter. We cut the stencils out of Tyvek. I'll have to say, we had more stencils ruined than we had successes. If the settings weren't perfect, or the pattern wasn't created properly, it was a failure. My reason for taking the workshop was so I could create stencils myself. After the workshop, I decided to try to find them on-line instead of investing in the cutter, the Tyvek rolls, the blades (which dulled fairly quickly), etc. I found a site and ordered a couple of stencils…..excellent quality and they were only $5-$6 each I think, which I thought was very reasonable. They will also cut custom stencils - don't know the price for this though. http://endlessmountainsclaytools.bigcartel.com/category/stencils
  25. If you're on FB, JT McMaster Silkscreen Printing posts pottery pictures daily. I also like Pinterest. And I want to check out the sites posted here. https://www.facebook.com/pages/JT-McMaster-Silkscreen-Printing/290062267336?fref=nf
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