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eoteceramics

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Everything posted by eoteceramics

  1. Hi All, First time slip casting . Ive mixed my own smooth earthenware slip to a creamy consistency and poured. I expected to leave for about an hour before removing the moulds, however after leaving overnight they are still too soft. Also there is a white mold growing on the plaster mould!. Could it be that they are too damp, I did have to clean with a damp sponge . thanks so much Julia
  2. eoteceramics

    help needed re slip casting

    Min thanks so much for the information. Ill have a look at those links and hopefully get it sorted. Cant wait to get started!
  3. eoteceramics

    help needed re slip casting

    Hi Min, Thanks for responding. Obviously I havent a clue what Im doing as I dont have a reciepe! I just mixed me regular clay with water until it was creamy. Then sieved, it looked smooth and about right which is why I thought it must be the molds.
  4. eoteceramics

    help needed re slip casting

    Hey Johnny, Im fairly sure the moulds were dry as they had been sitting in a shed for a few years, it seemed fairly waterproof. Ive looked up the mould thing and found that its overuse of sodium silicate seeped into the capillaries of the mold. This doesnt explain why the slip wasnt drying, it still isnt two days later! I might try cleaning with bleach then drying off in the oven. Cheers , Julia
  5. Hi, have you tried using letter stamps, they work great in clay! Julia
  6. Hi, I have a piece of bisque , took a while to make but after first firing two cracks formed where one piece joins another, only small but noticeable. Anyone know of a way to disguise them? Thanks Julia
  7. Hi all, Im very excited to be making a raku kiln, now I'm new to this method so will be firing some raku Q's at you all. Be prepared for some daft ones! first up, Is there an ideal temperature to fire a stoneware clay to bisque if wanting to do a raku glaze firirng? Has anyone a glaze recipe for a beautiful blue or green, or is there a good resource for raku recipes somewhere? Thats it for now, be warned I may be back! Julia
  8. eoteceramics

    Bisque temp for raku

    thank you I have his book and am making my way through it, very informative
  9. eoteceramics

    Bisque temp for raku

    Thanks Denice, first time doing this so learning fast. Im planning on adding silica sand to my earthenware clay , does that sound like the right thing to do?
  10. I am fortunate to be getting a brand new studio, lucky me! its 32ft x 16ft and will be an empty shell. Im looking for peoples recomendations for setting up an ideal studio setup, ie where to put things, dry /wet area. Ill be holding workshops in it during the summer as well as making my own work. Im looking also for the best way to incorporate a drying area. Thanks so much Julia
  11. eoteceramics

    Ideal studio setup

    I just logged back in to find all this amazing information, thanks to all of you Ill take my time sifting through all the info. The digger came yesterday to clear the site and apart from unearthing a power cable its all gone smoothly. Julia
  12. eoteceramics

    Ideal studio setup

    Wow thanks dh Potter, Denice & Pres, some brilliant suggestions that I simply wouldn't have thought of. Denice, I have an electric front loader and its always damp here in the west coast of Ireland, so much so my kiln is starting to rust in my current studio. Oiled tops, brilliant Ive always used canvas but yes so dusty! Thanks so much this has really helped, as always Julia
  13. Hi all, I had a problem with slabs, not too thick , cracking and exploding. From posting in this forum on another thread i realized that my firing schedule was too fast. I need to drive off any moisture in the slabs. I have a Nabertherm B130 controller which has 4 ramps and two temp ramps. Im looking for recommendation for a firing schedule, that will drive off moisture. I can candle but then i cant bisque fire in same schedule as there isnt enough temp ramps. Any help very much welcome. thanks Julia
  14. Disaster! Ive just dropped a piece of greenware and it broke in two places. Clean break but it was made by somebody else as apresent for her Dad!! Is there any way of repairing it or will I have to own up? Thanks
  15. Hi all, Ive two questions which probably should be in different sections but easier to do as one. So first is there a way to hide the joints between two slabs? Second is there a way to make eathenware waterproof? Thanks for your wisdom, Julia
  16. Hi all If anyone can identify these funny brown specks I'd appreciate it. They are on a white earthenware that I had fired up to 200C over a few hours and then candled I did this to eliminate the moisture as I had had big problems when firing before with explosions. I usually just bisque fire and haven't noticed these specks before. The slabs are resting on silica sand which I haven't used before either. Thanks Julia
  17. eoteceramics

    Strange brown specks !

    As always id be lost without this forum and all the expert advice. Just opened the kiln and the spots have been cured ( read burned out ) Thanks everybody Julia
  18. eoteceramics

    firing schedule needed

    Hi I think I didnt convert F - C ( Im in Ireland so we use C) Thanks Neil, I wish you were over here so you could just programme it for me!!, I need my own technician
  19. eoteceramics

    Strange brown specks !

    Thanks Guys, Im learning as I go Julia
  20. eoteceramics

    Strange brown specks !

    Sorry my photo won't load. They are like measals and cover all the slabs, look like they are in the clay. Julia
  21. eoteceramics

    firing schedule needed

    Hi Neil I mean it can be programmed to reach a temp in a certain amount of time then another temp in a given time, then a holding time then a cooling time. It has pre programmes but these are too fat for what I want.
  22. Hi everyone I really need help with this! I am making large slabs 30x30 cm approx with decoration attatched so a 2D effect. I've dried slowly over a week and also used a clay meant to be resistant to cracking / warping. Just got two of them out of the kiln , disaster the pieces attatched to the slab have cracked up and ' jumped' away from where they were attatched. I had broken kiln slab pieces supporting underneath to circulate the heat I'm under pressure now to get them done for a deadline . Any help to sort this problem much appreciated. Julia
  23. eoteceramics

    Help my slabs are cracking up

    Hi again, Ive the kiln loaded, but due to all the good advice here I need to reschedule the firing schedule. I think it was heating too rapidly causing explosions and cracks. So I have a Nabatherm B130 controller with 4 ramps and a possible two temp points Can anyone suggest a firing schedule, Bisque or should I candle and cool then bisque.? I cant do both in one firing given the number of ramps/ heat..... I think Thanks for your time Julia
  24. eoteceramics

    Help my slabs are cracking up

    Hi Charlotte, Thanks for all that information. Its good to know, Im nervous about firing the tiles in fact theyre still drying. I dont want to risk firing too soon and have the disaster I had last time. Just a quick question, do you use silica sand under the tiles to allow movement. I got some recently and havent used before. Not sure do I put an evn layer under the tile or little piles. Thanks Julia
  25. eoteceramics

    Help my slabs are cracking up

    Marcia and glazenerd, Thanks so much. Marcia the photos make so much more sense now, for some mad reason I had a picture in my head of lots of vertical sticks supporting the slabs so thanks for posting. glazenerd great information Im off to the studio to try this, the things you learn on this site are amazing. Julia
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