Masonm

Thank you so much. I think before I do anything ill be getting the backboard tested for asbestos because if its asbestos ill be considering it a complete loss. If its not asbestos I will be replacing my controller and the wiring connections which should help. Do you think with the current setup that my kiln actually runs on 15 amps instead of the posted 14 amps (since the controller is rated for 15 amps)? Can I test the amps and voltage with a multimeter and check using ohms law? Sorry for the slew of questions but thanks for being thorough.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/rcGGxwFSBfG7gfPo7 Here are the photos. I am super concerned with the white powdery substance on the back of the kiln it really looks like asbestos.

I see, I will attach a video of the entire kiln and a close up photo of the controller tomorrow when its light outside again. I will have to run the kiln again to show the door gap when its hot. I'll attach a google drive folder because I could only send 1000kb of total room for photos on here. I guess I wont upgrade the kiln because that does sound like a project not meant for me. But what I want to understand first is why the kiln says 14 amps even though the cord is 15 amps and the controller says 120v 15amps. Is it because of the elements? I also want to know if at 120V 14 amps/15 amps it can even reach cone 6?

Also - my paragon stepless switch controller is rated for 120v and 15 amps, but the power cord says 14 amps on it. Can I simply just upgrade the power cord and connect it up for 1800 watts instead of 1680? As long as the switch is rated for it shouldn't it be okay? The difference in the one amp upgrade would technically mean going from cone 1 to cones 6-8.

I recently picked up an old front loading kiln (small) made my fire masters with a paragon stepless switch for 120v. It's marked as model 9 673 120v 14amps and it seems to be an old kiln. The connections are corroded and I have turned it on and it does work. I was wondering what the maximum temperature I could reach is? I want to reach 2200F but as of now it barely pushes 2050. I was thinking maybe its due to a huge gap in the door when its really hot letting out heat? Maybe it cant even reach 2200F in the first place? If its not meant to go to cone 6 is there a way for me to upgrade the amperage with new parts? Maybe if theres new connections for the wiring it can reach cone 6? Also, the back panel where the controls are seems to be a powdery white substance and im worried about it being asbestos. I have no idea what to do/try so i'm open to hearing what anyone has to say about it. I have some photos attached to give more insight.