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Seasoned Warrior

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Everything posted by Seasoned Warrior

  1. FYI http://www.theartsmap.com/index.php
  2. Mea: I take exception to your suggestion that the questions were not responded to with respect. I have no idea what you consider disrespect but I see no disrespect, I only see disagreement. If anyone was disrespectful it was the original poster who obviously misunderstood the nature of the orginal response, but I don't take offense to that. I do take offense at your suggestion that I was disrespectful. I tried to respond completely having no knowledge of the persons's background. If someone asks how to make a bowl it indicates a certain lack of basic knowledge since almost everyone I know usually starts with a bowl as their first shape. You may be a mderator but that does not make you infallible. You don't have to ban me I'll just go ahead and ban myself! Regards, Charles
  3. For me Chris, I think you omitted the most onerous task of all: that of comptroller or as I like to put it, chancellor of the exchequer. Perhaps it is because we are nearing tax time again but going through my bookkeeping: I use Quickbooks and Turbotax but as good as computers are for crunching numbers I still have to do a lot of preparation in advance. I find the whole process onerous and non-productive. Yes, I realize I save money but it's money I already earned so I'm really not saving anything I'm defending what's already mine (I earned it, it's mine) mine from being grabbed. Anyway the 1st quarter of each year is soured for me by having to take the time to do my taxes. sorry for the rant! Best regards, Charles
  4. I think they's be great looking decoys. Would these be decorative or actually used as decoys? I believe they'd float without much problem, but staility might be an issue since they might be top heavy so additional weight may be needed in the bottom. iI you left them unglazed or partially glazed they may be permeable but you'd have to determine the rate and see if they'd stay aflaot for as long as you need. I don't know about your hunting buddies but mine just stuff their decoys in a decoy bag and I suspect porcelain decoys might present a durability issue. I'd love to see what you come up with however: ducks are a favorite shape of mine. Regards, Charles
  5. Greetings and welcome aboard: I don't mean to be flip but generally experience dictates the best methods of production. I understand the basic shape of a boat or a dory or even a canoe, they are all radically different, but are you planning on making them look like they are clinker built or clay bottomed, there would be a huge difference. Clinker built you might get away with slab building and then planking the boat as one would do a real boat but you would need to spile the planks just as one would in a real boat. A clay bottom would certainly not be something that would suggest slab construction since it is difficult to make a developable shape from a flat slab. There are a lot of considerations, such as use, you wouldn't want functional pottery to be low-fired for sanitary and health considerations. Who is your customer, are you planning to export these to the US? Do you understand the various entities you would have to satisfy There is much to consider before one goes into production. I'm afraid a forum is better suited to answering fairly simple questions but does not have the ability to answer a question in depth. A perusal of the other posts on the forum would give you an idea of the type of questions that lend themselves to simple answers. We can point you in the right direction but only education and experience will give you the tools to produce a marketable product. Good luck with your project. Best regards, Charles Gosh Charles, Thanks for all the suggestions...(I think?)...but all I asked for was if anyone knew of any ways to make boat bowls. Such questions as contents and import export rules are something that would be looked into on my own...by the way...just because "Newbie" is by soeones name do not assume they are new to pottery...I am but new to the site and have been working on Ceramics and Pottery since the 70's. And yes...I consoder that flip. The first person was helpful My Apologies. It was not meant as a put down, I was just answering the questions you put forth and you did say you wanted to go "into production" I just figured that one did not go "into production" as a hobby. I did not assume that you were a "Newbie" from the title, I assumed from the question you asked that you had limited experience. Let me deconstruct the conversation. You mentioned that you had "seen" bowls shaped like "boats, dory's and canoes" those are all very varied shapes, a dory has a high transom, a canoe has two pointy ends and a lot of tumble home that is non-existent in the dory and the boat can be anything from a punt to a dhow. You asked if anyone knew how to "make boat bowls" I made a few suggestions, your question did not indicate a great body of knowledge or much experience. I gave you the benefit of the doubt in talking about developable shapes. The questions posed are basically those of someone coming on a site for builders and asking how to build to build a lean-to: a question I believe would suggest a lack of knowledge and experience. At this point I truly have no idea what you thought you were asking but I am certainly not going to respond further.
  6. Thanks Marcia and bciskepottery. Murphy's Soap works fine as a release even diluted. I got nice reproduction and release even with a 10% solution. Thanks. I did notice that it tends to foam if not applied carefully. Regards, Charles
  7. feldspars are very common, constituting almost 60% of the worlds crust. One of the problems that you may be having is that feldspars are a family and have aobut 20 different specific members. Columbite and labradorite are a couple of the more common. When you drive through an area where the road bed has been cut down into the bed rock you can see veins of whitish crystalline rock in the granite and many of those are feldspar. I'd recommend picking up a field guide for your area and looking in road cuts. A field guide I like is the Roger Tory Peterson field guide series on rocks and minerals, it has an outstanding introduction to identification and collection of mineral specimens and while it is published in the US the characteristics of rocks and minerals are pretty much of the same worldwide. Happy hunting! Best regards, Charles
  8. Greetings and welcome aboard: I don't mean to be flip but generally experience dictates the best methods of production. I understand the basic shape of a boat or a dory or even a canoe, they are all radically different, but are you planning on making them look like they are clinker built or clay bottomed, there would be a huge difference. Clinker built you might get away with slab building and then planking the boat as one would do a real boat but you would need to spile the planks just as one would in a real boat. A clay bottom would certainly not be something that would suggest slab construction since it is difficult to make a developable shape from a flat slab. There are a lot of considerations, such as use, you wouldn't want functional pottery to be low-fired for sanitary and health considerations. Who is your customer, are you planning to export these to the US? Do you understand the various entities you would have to satisfy There is much to consider before one goes into production. I'm afraid a forum is better suited to answering fairly simple questions but does not have the ability to answer a question in depth. A perusal of the other posts on the forum would give you an idea of the type of questions that lend themselves to simple answers. We can point you in the right direction but only education and experience will give you the tools to produce a marketable product. Good luck with your project. Best regards, Charles
  9. OK! Out of curiosity what solution do you use of Mruphy's Oil Soap to water? I used an approxiamtely 10% of the Murphy's Oil Soap to water and it worked but it just kind of felt watery.
  10. Recently we were having a discussion regarding our favorite mold release materials and many suggested Murphy Oil Soap or WD-40. I prefer not to use WD-40. I checked the bottle of Murphy Oil Soap and while they do not list the ingredients they do say it is pure vegetable oil soap on their label. Also on the label is a caution that if the product contacts the eye to rinse thoroughly with water and if swallowed drink a glass of water to dilute it: pretty benign remedies by today's standards. So Murphy Oil is now high on my list of mold releases. The odd thing is that sometimes in a discussion one tends to forget specifics (at least I do) sometimes and one of the things that I forgot to mention is that I like wax polish for a mold release also. I particularly like the hard waxes that one uses to finish a nice piece of wood, something like Butcher's Wax (a brand name not an application) or Bowling Alley Wax again they are heavy on vegetable waxes primarily Carnauba. I am preparing a piece to be molded (that's what triggered the memory) and I'm going to try the Murphy's Oil because it seems like it will wash out better than many of the other products. The ability to wash out the mold after making it enhances the absorptive qualities and that has been why for years I used melted Ivory soap. But toady I'll see if the Murphy's oil will wash out as well. Best regards, Charles
  11. Actually there are a couple of threads ongoing regarding the subject of bisqued ceramic for molds as well as mold release. Seems the consensus is that Murphy Oil or WD-40 for a mold release. If you use a good release it doesn't matter whether its bisqued or glazed in my opinion. Others may see it differently but to me it's just a process, if you've made a couple of molds, know how to mix plaster then it's just another day at the office and they should be all successes not failures. Good luck! The only thing that I question is making a third piece for a reservoir why not just cast the reservoir into the two halves of the mold, you are going to have to trim it off anyway? Best regards, Charles
  12. I think you are right about the force of the drop aligning the clay platelets and I see no reason that wouls not work. I was just curious to see if relief work would get mushed down. Did you like that gratuitous use an arcane technical term? Best regards, Charles
  13. I doubt freezing would make any difference, after all clay in nature freezes and thaws many cycles, in fact that is part of how it becomes clay. Regards, Charles
  14. Many cultures use earthenware crockery on fire BUT they either have clay that has mica or another type of temper in it. Potters in Pereruela and Moveros Spain have a natural micaceous clay found in their clay pits. North African pottery may also have some type of temper in it since pots from Morrocco and elsewhere are used for cooking directly on fire.. Marcia Interesting comment Marcia. I own some ollas and cazuelas I have picked up rambling about in Mexico and I use them to cook with on a gas stove. I was in an open air market in a little town one day and I was poking around through a large selection of nice looking ollas and this very little and very old lady stopped me and then went through the pots flicking them with her index finger and making them ring. She finally settled on one that she liked the ring of and told me to buy it because that was the best one. The potter was an "indigeno" and spoke neither English or Spanish and so I was completely unable to communicate with him beyond making the transaction which tends to be pretty universal. The little old lady was not able to explain anything about the pots other than that is how her grandmother taught her to select them. I have no idea of the clay composition but that particular pot I use in my kitchen regularly and it is still going strong ten years later. I suspect that in pit firing the level of vitrification may vary considerably and so by making the pots ring one was able to tell which ones reached a higer level of vitrification. There was actually quite a bit of variation in the tone. Regards, Charles
  15. I love that comment Chris. The name IS the game. It has been my experience that desire needs to be built and frequently it is incumbent on the self image of the buyer. There is a concept of sales to the interest of the second part where often there is an unstated reason why someone wants to buy an item. Frequently sales to the interest of the second part speak to our baser instincts: the way we appear to others, enhancing our desirability, intelligence or what have you. If you can make an item help the buyer appear more desirable in their social group then the item you are selling is more desirable. It is an interesting concept and many don't like thinking, let alone admitting that they are dealing with peoples baser instincts but in reality we all have them. Regards, Charles
  16. The reason plaster is used is because it absorbs the moisture from the interface between the plaster and the clay forming a skin, depending on the time the slip is left in the mold determines the thickness of the finished item. when the time has elapsed you pour out the slip and let the form set firming up more. You have a somewhat similar situation with bisque since the bisqued clay will absorb the moisture form the contact zone between the slip and the mold. With plastic you don't have the same situation, so I am not sure how you will have a usable piece from a mold that does not absorb moisture. I've used molds for chocolates as a press mold to make sprigs but doubt plastic and latex would be a satisfactory mold material for clay. Latex or plastic will work for plaster items but plaster hardens through an exothermic chemical reaction and the action is completely different. You can certainly try it but how long do you want to wait to get a form and then it will probably be solid since the moisture will be removed only in the area in contact with the air. I strongly believe it will not be a satisfactory situation. Now if you use the plastic or latex mold to make a plaster object you can make a ceramic mold from the plaster object. I think you would be a lot happier with that approach. Beast regards, Charles
  17. Pam I bought a digital pyrometer last year and have really enjoyed the ability to control my firings. I have a Skutt 1027 a couple of smaller Paragon's and a small test kiln. The thermocouple doesn't work with the test kiln, I put a single thermocouple holder on the Paragon and put the thermocouples in the peep hole plugs and stuff insulation inside the plug to give a little extra protection to the meter and it keeps from rattling around. They are made by Skutt (Digital Thermometer 343) I did a lot of research before buying these, I wanted something easy to operate and reasonably priced. They are extremely easy to operate and I think I paid around 150.00 for two thermocouples and the pyrometer. It would have been less if I had bought two thermocouples with the pyrometer. But I only ordered one thermocouple with the pyrometer, I wanted to try it out. I quickly learned that I needed the other thermocouple for the three zone Skutt, the pyrometer is set up for two thermocouples. It display both thermocouple temperatures and the difference between them, it automatically turns off after a few minutes to save batteries. The technician at Skutt were a lot of help, I'm sure they could answer any of your questions. Denice (Wichita, KS) Euclids has a portable hand-held pyrometer for around $60 to $70 however a pyrometer is basicaly athermocouple with only two dissimilar pieces of wire welded at one end. You can attache the other ends to a multitester with an appropriate scale and you have a pyrometer because with the different dissimilar metal joint there is a specific correlation between the current and the temperature. Check out one of my favorite engineering companies Omega. They have thermocoples, pyrometers and even programmable loginc controllers you can use to substitue for a dedicated kiln controller for a lot less money. The thermocouple wire page is http://www.omega.com...couplewire.html Good luck, Regards, Charles
  18. Thank you for the kind words. I have no problem with teachers trying to get the most out of students they can: that is their job. I try very hard to stay on subject. Sometimes I believe people respond to disagreement on a personal level and I have nothing against either you or Mr. Robison, I was just responding with my thoughts on the subject which I understood to be Mr. Robisons expectations of his students and how I believed it may have been misunderstood and actually a disincentive. I am pleasantly surprised to hear that you know of the prepared piano, most people just kind of shrug like it is some oddity that some might indulge in but not in the mainstream. I always felt that the prepared piano was an attempt at extending the vocabulary of he piano. I am a little bit familiar with Subotnik, mainly through the work of Don Buchla and Leon Kirchner. While most people like Robert Moog worked with frequencies and variable oscillators Buchla made a synth that utilized voltage control, a very interesting variant. I have a baby Moog but my primary synth is a Kurzweil 3600. Besides a couple of pianos I also have a Hammond X-66 and a Rodgers Cambridge hybrid organ with both pipes and electronics. I am not a great fan of dissonance and while Slubotnik's music was interesting and even fascinating structurally I don't find it pleasant for listening. I enjoy jazz along the lines of Dave Brubeck, Ramsey Lewis, Thelonius Monk, I love the classics in particular Beethoven and Bach. One of my most memorable mountain bicycling experiences was while blasting through the redwood forest listening to the Brandenburg #6! I particularly enjoy playing the two part inventions and for the organ the Toccata and Fugue in D minor to me is probably the ultimate auditory experience (especialy the Fuge). I also like some Rock and Roll; Ray Manzarek is a wonderful Hammond organist, I certainly enjoyed him as an artist on the Doors albums, Greg Rollie (early Santana band) is another I've enjoyed. I've been actively involved with the Oaktown Jazz Project run by my good friend Khalil Shaheed (Pharaoh Sanders and Jimi Henrix) in Oakland, CA. I tend to like opera also, especially some of the Sopranos and Coloraturas. Anyway enough about that, I do like music and can go on and on and on ad nauseum. Nice to hear from you, there is nothing to apologize for. Best regards, Charles
  19. Chris, can you elaborate on your technique a little bit. I understand the process up until the point where you drop the tiles. I am assuming that you drop the tiles sandwiched between the boards as a unit. Are all your tile flat or do you make tiles with decoration in relief? I would imagine your technique might be a little had on the relief or am I getting the whole technique wrong? Best regards, Charles
  20. I like the heavy wire shelves that are used in domestic stoves and put my tiles on those to dry out. Since the tiles dry equally from both sides I don't seem to get any warpage. The wire shelves I find are always free because, find someone who repairs appliances and often they dismantle the stoves for the controls an electrical parts. I don't care if the backs fo the tiles have a pattern on them it actually makes it easier to attach them with thinset since it increases the surface area. Best regards, Charles
  21. A meat saw? May I ask is it a band saw or the one that looks like a hack saw? How are you using it? I use a coping saw but a meat saw is most intriguing. Regards, Charles
  22. I was qualified to answer this quesition based on your definition this morning but as the day progressed I am not so sure anymore. Based on another post in this section I should probably go see if I can find your body of work before I make any comment. But what the heck, I've always like to live diangerously, after all I am a potter! My entry into the world of clay was as easy as falling into a mud puddle: I was born into it. My Mom was a potter, a graduate of the Royal Art Academy in Belgrade and my first teacher although all I did was help around the studio when I felt the urge and played with her stuff. I did n't realize until alot later that I had learned a lot more than I thought I had, I had lerned a lot. I still run across stuff that when I find it difficult I ask what would Mom have done. When I still can't figure it out I come here Of course that was many years ago and technology has changed drastically since that time. Your question did not go in the direction I thought it was going to go so I hope I answered the question you asked in the body of the post. I'd also like to take a shot at your question in the title. I find that the reality of clay is alive and well to ours and to future generations. I was an older parent to my daughter, people used to laugh that I didn't have a daughter I had a granddaughter. So, her friends are all very young and very tech savvy. My daughter's friends also think that making things from clay is "way cool!" I like to take classes and I help out with maintenance of the equipment at the college so I get to spend time with college kids and the kids taking ceramics are very, very much into it. They may have their iPhone connected in their ears but their hands are in the clay on the wheel. I am very heartened by what I see there is a new generation growing up with a liking for clay and other crafts with a good sense of design. BTW in a quid pro quo, please go to the thread on "A Student’S Guide To Building An Esthetic Foundation " just below this one and tell me what you think regarding the proposed guide. Best regards, Charles
  23. One of my favorite tools is the micro surform tool from Lee valley It is wonderful for shredding things and for using as a file. It is also the best cheese grater I have ever used although it is not designed for it and I suggest that you get two, one to grate clay and a different one for cheese. Another device and I guess you could call it a tool is a Becton and Dickenson 2cc glass syringe with an adrenalin needle. the needle is the one used to inject adrenaline directly into the heart of a heart attack victim about 4' long with a realtively large bore. I like them because they are easy to clean the Luer lock needle can be easily changed and it makes fine lines with slip or glaze. It is a dream to trail slip with. I also love my Wood working tools and while they may not be used directly on clay I make my own wooden ribs. I make turned models on the lathe, and I don't knwo what I wold do without my band say and my table saw. Darn I also like my metal workign tools in actuality I work in different media dependign on what i want to achieve and I guess the lines of demarcation have become so blurred in my mind that I use things interchangeably as the need comes up. I even been known use my pot smelter for a raku oven! I'm just a mess Best regards, Charles
  24. I wanted to add that after I wrote the response above I went to Mr. Robison's blog and had I read his teaching philosophy and artist's statement. In my opinion a class based on the artists' statement in the blog could be achieved ith more certainty than the one stated in the post. From Mr. Robison's post on this site I gathered an imprecation regarding anything Mr. Robison perceived as commercial in nature and since perception is hard to quantify that statement alone would have made me pass on the class because it would did not provide any objective criteria for achieveing a passing grade. Ultimately one goes to school to obtain a satisfactory grade and if the path to the satisfactory grade is obscure it puts the whole endeavor in question. I believe that there should be a place where the grade is not a consideration but that is a discussion for another time and place. I have audited classes where I achieved the results I sought without the grade hanging over my head but my motive was to learn a very well defined objective. Regards, Charles
  25. I had no intention of impugning Mr Robison's work and in fact I know little of what Mr. Robison does as an artist. I also had no intention of suggesting that classes should not challenge, some of the most difficult and challenging classes I've had I've enjoyed the most. My only intent was to offer that an instructor when they are handing out their syllabus and guidelines sets the tone for the semester. I suggest that an instructor can discourage a student. A lot of the goals Mr. Robison sets are subjective. I have a problem with subjectivity: there is no way of judging accomplishment of subjective goals because there is no way to measure them and so the student has no way of gaging their progress. "Reasoning for certain aesthetic rules lie in the fact that to learn about the art and craft of ceramics or any other media, you must look beyond the blatantly obvious. My classes are not about creating a product; they are about learning skills to create, building a conceptual direction and about learning to see. Searching for an individual voice through historical and contemporary reference points outside of commercialism will be your main objective in my classes." This statement begs a number of questions that can only be answered by the individual writing them. Music is often used as a parallel art but the structure of music is much more defined and the path to learn music is more obvious. I am a fairly accomplished musician. I play keyboards primarily and synthesizer and organ specifically. One has to start with the common language and terms of music and how they are implemented. If one does not study notation and understand fingering one is never going to be an accomplished musician regardless of how one tries: talented, popular, commercially viable but never accomplished. Even within music there is subjectivity. I personally like Bach and Beethoven and detest Mahler but that is just my opinion. I know lots of people who like Mahler. Have you ever been made aware of performance on a prepared piano? A prepared piano is one in which the strings have been enhanced with other objects to alter the sound. There is a whole body of music out of the 1930s up until the advent of electronic music written for prepared piano. However as subjective as music is to many the actual making of the music is pretty exact and not subjective at all: notes are specific frequencies, tempo lives in real time, even dynamics fit within envelopes. music is actually pretty precise. One can actually say that one is wrong if the composer intended you to play an F# and you decide to play an A instead. The closest thing to visual art in music might be Jazz but still if everyone is playing in the Mixolydian mode and you decide to go Phrygian I suspect even the jazz dilettante will know something is wrong. I am just suggesting that in the visual arts as with music there is a lot of subjectivity and a lot of objectivity. I suspect that Da Vinci would be appalled at Pablo Picasso just as Beethoven might consider Mahler dreck! Yet today we consider all 4 to be at the pinnacle of their art. So I suggest that instead of presenting lofty goals that the student might be hard-pressed to define, especially at the beginning of the semester that the syllabus might give more objective goals so that the student can get a sense of direction and then, within the structure of the class, introduce more abstract concepts and provide a framework for understand those abstract concepts. Again I meant no slight to Mr. Robison and this is just my opinion as silly as it may sound: I am not a teacher I am a user of the teachers' products. One needs to bear in mind however the necessity to pay the bills and to keep classrooms full as well as to achieve one's loftier goals. Lets face it the vast majority of students in one's class are never going to be the next great artist. I would venture to guess that of all the students an art teacher sees in school the vast majority will be doing something a lot less lofty than proposed and their lives will be consumed by the minutiae of making a living, raising a family and taking their place as members of the hive not as outstanding artists. To take a page from my own education, every engineering professor I had, taught me to design lofty structures, high-rises, engines of industry, devices that altered the social structure of the world while upon graduation I was ushered to a small cubicle where I was to design stairways and ladders for tanks and there were people in my immediate circle who had been designing the same stairways and ladders for the same types of tanks for over 30 years and were ready to retire. Unfortunately education sometimes sets goals that are not realistic. Teachers are extremely vital to our future as a civilization. I am only suggesting that education may be better served by a more quantifiable approach in the arts. But then what do I know, I am not a teacher and the resposnes to Mr Robinsons syullabus have been positive. Sometimes people in a closed group understand one another but may not see how it looks from the outside. I was only giving my perspective as a user of that service. Best regards, Charles
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