Min, Hyn, and Bill, thank you for your responses and advice. Min, thank you for the link. It will be helpful in many areas as I learn more about ceramics. To answer your question, I used, for example, Mason Stain Deep Crimson at 10% (50g in 500g of wet high fire porcelain clay). It turned out a medium grey. It's a steep learning curve for me! I now see that the Mason Stain label says 1260°C maximum. I fired at cone 10, so I exceeded that temperature. True for all the other stains in my sample discs - fired at cone 10 , and any red pigment was lost. I am hoping to save my small blocks of coloured porcelain clay (they make up a pug of clay and hours of wedging!) that I make my beads out of. And that's why I wondered if I could use this same coloured high-fire porcelain clay and fire it at cone 6 or cone 7 instead of cone 10 and still end up with beads that are hard enough not to chip.
Hyn, you mention frit. This seems like an alternative to firing at a lower cone temperature. I looked on a few sites that sell frit and it seems it's mostly added to glazes. Can I add this to my porcelain clay body? Have you done this? If so, can you give me a little more guidance on using frit?
I think if lowering the cone temperature is practical, it would be the easiest solution to keeping my colours true?