Neosquid
-
Posts
16 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Posts posted by Neosquid
-
-
A quick update to all who were involved. Finally back from a trip that made up put this project on hold, we have come back to some more questions.
First, a thank you to all who have responded because it was a great help to us getting situated with this kiln. It has been helpful when figuring this stuff out. Thank you especially for the drafts, @Bill Kielb
A new power cable was bought from the Paragon website. The representative on the phone specified that the appropriate power cord is this one right here for this kiln. We bought it, but here was what actually arrived.
It was installed on the kiln, but the electrician working with us seems to think this cord is an issue. He took the liberty of uninstalling that power cord, saying he would fetch an appropriate one himself. I admit it, I am confused here since I wonder if him doing any of that is even necessary. Am i being mistrustful?
-
2 hours ago, Bill Kielb said:
OK, wanted this draft done before I walked in to my next virtual meeting. See if this makes sense, is workable and matches your kiln. Some folks here may have suggestions. I would buy insulated terminals to crimp on, the clearances around that switch are pretty tight. I would also splice the cord within 8" of it coing into the kiln and run high temp wire to the sitter. High temp ceramic wire nuts are available on Amazon. The splice at the bottom can use conventional wire nuts In my experience. Keep it low and away from the kiln. Other splices, I would use High temp wire nuts still keeeping them forward or away from the shell as much as practical.
Thank you for your generous efforts here. This will serve me well. Why do you think the current ceramic nuts melted? Were they not suitable for the high temperature? I also was not aware that toward the bottom of the kiln there would be lower temperature. Noted.
-
4 hours ago, Bill Kielb said:
Arrrgh! Your drawing blew up on my computer. I was trying to sneak it in as a government project so I deserve what I get. Will publish late tonight.
Thanks for putting in that effort nonetheless
!
-
It sounds like this isn't such a big overhaul. I was concerned about how big of a project this would turn out to be. That ground wire issue was unexpected. One last thing is to ensure the heating elements are still in working order.
-
Here are those additional pictures of the back of the switch:
I hope they have the information you are looking for. I see the PL and the COM on the top in the first picture.
-
56 minutes ago, neilestrick said:
Yep, that's a 4 wire plug. So assuming the switch hasn't been replace with something else, you'll want to replace the plug with the 14-30. It looks like in the pic you posted that there are 4 wires in the cord, so that's good. Cut them back to fresh wire and install the correct plug and it'll be good to go. Then we just have to address the wiring in the box to make sure it's still set up properly.
On the subject of stripping back the wires and attaching a new plug, I have identified the power cord on the Paragon website but if all it needs is the plug, the NEMA 14-30 could be found anywhere. I am aware that the intense heat of the kiln means the cord has to withstand that. Does that mean the plug as well will have to be insulated for that high temperature as well i.e. buying the full power cord from Paragon?
-
3 hours ago, Bill Kielb said:
Neil’s got a great point about the switch. If you can clear away some of the dust from the top of the switch and get a picture. My original thought is it was the Gottak, but looking closer, maybe the ark less. This will help a whole bunch with making a functional drawing that you can verify before we create a draft conversion drawing.
I will have to get a picture of that component later today and upload it. I got off the phone with Paragon and they mentioned it originally should have had a NEMA 14-30. So
-
52 minutes ago, Bill Kielb said:
Not very neatly done actually. Only the green wire from the power cord will go there and there is an easy way to make this much neater and easy to do.
I like the idea about getting rid of the cords related to the collar. Less mess and extra cords.
-
Realistically, I will get ahold of a new power cord to replace the original cord. That is, if the interior appears to have everything still intact. That exposed copper wiring where the green wire is in this shouldn't look so unraveled, should it?
-
Wonderful information. Here are more pictures form the interior. I do see the melting. Based on what we are seeing here, it is possible to configure this with a four pronged plug? I guess there is some work to do before this thing is even safe to run. Here are some more pictures, including the plug.
-
Here is what I have for a picture of the inside of the controller for what it is worth. I took this image the first time we took the controller off, so let me know if I need to get another photo.
-
I have two pictures below. We opened up the control box a day ago, so I will have to open it back up later and get some other pictures. I also need to get a close up and tear that duct tape off and show the condition of the plug with the exposed wires.
-
Good information. I think staying with the kiln pictured above would mean getting a replacement cord. The current one has part of the prongs exposed , which I am wondering how the last owner worked it since it seems unsafe. Is it advisable to buy a kiln power cord that can handle 240V 20amp even if the plug is a different NEMA plug?
For instance, I found a Paragon Power Cord 20 Amp NEMA 6-20. The Paragon A66B I have has a plug with NEMA 10-30.
-
Thanks, but on the other hand. I have to wonder if just getting something like a kiln pyrometer and using it with the other Paragon A66B is just an easy alternative given that i now know there is that option. That Paragon A66B has everything in tact unlike the one pictured above, just without the kiln sitter. So many choices, so little time.
-
Hello all, I am new to the community but I am hoping to have some questions I have answered.
I bought a Paragon A66B that has a LT-3K kiln sitter (missing the time knob on it). In addition, the plug is cracked where the three prongs are. It has the same configuration that a dryer has as far as that goes. I have to know, with all that being said and the pictures attached below, is this kiln in workable condition? I have yet to plug it in and try it out. Of course after I buy this one, another Paragon A66B pops up for sale across town for half the price but without the kiln sitter?
Can the power cable be replaced on these?
Many thanks in advance.
Paragon A66B Questions
in Equipment Use and Repair
Posted
I asked and he has not worked with a kiln before, so I am not sure where the decision to take the cord we installed so he can get one himself came from. It seems like an unnecessary step to me, unless there is something he knows and I don't. You are right, I will have to ask. I unfortunately was not the one at home when he stopped by today.