rdrr

Thanks for the information @Min. I thought about using Blackbird/Barnard but saw that it started to melt at ^6 and was worried about how much it would start to flow at ^10. But if that recipe seems to hold up I'll give it a try. I was also a bit worried about going to high with the IO, I have some tests to fire at a 50/50 mix of body clay to IO. Based off of what is in the clay in the recipe with the addition of 30% more that should put it up around 40+% so my fears are a bit alleviated. Sorry to hear about your birdbath @oldlady

I do a decent amount of work where I apply a thick slip made of the same clay body to create a varied textured surface. The textured surface is somewhat rough with littler rivlets of slip sticking to the piece with breaks in between. Once bisqued I apply a heavy coat of iron oxide wash (just IO and water) to the slip textured area . The pieces are fired to code 10 in reduction causing the io to flux with the result in that area being a dark metallic (black/blue/brown iron) sheen. Lately I've been playing with adding a coating of colored slips to the surface before adding the texture. This looks nice as it creates colored breaks in the textured areas but applying the IO in my typical fashion would eliminate the color peaking through. I could add the IO in a more painstakingly fashion by applying it to the individual rivlets of slip but I would like to see if there is a way I could add a bunch of IO to the slip to get a similar effect. I can and will begin testing increasing amounts of IO to the slip to see how far I could take it without it fluxing to much and running off the piece but I'm wondering if anyone has done anything like this? Trying to figure out how much clay is needed to just keep the IO from running or if they have any specific recipes of this sort. Currently using the clay bodies I work with as the texturing slip but if there is a better formulation for heavy IO content I would live to hear about that as well.

@Magnolia Mud Researchand @ATauer thanks for such detailed responses. @ATauer, do you find the whitish/scum like markings appear anywhere you use the wash , even on bare clay body or just when it's covered with terasig or slip?

I've been looking at the idea of using a soda ash wash to obtain some satin sheens and ideally introduce some flashing. I can wood fire a couple of times a year but I generally only have access to a gas reduction kiln at the studio I go to and am hoping I can appIy this technique to get some different effects. I know that experimenting and trying things out is the best way to see how this adapts to a particular environment and I intend to do that but hoping I can gather a little more information before I start. With that said I a have a few questions that I hope some of you may be able to help with, especially wrt gar reduction environments. 1. Has anyone used this technique with flashing slips, how well did it work? 2 If used with flashing slips do you apply the wash to the bisqued piece and then apply the flashing slip over that or is it the other way around? 3. Do some flashing slips work better than others? 5. Have you noticed that it works better in a particular part of the kiln, closer to the flame, in the back, protected in the middle somewhere? 6. Does it work any better on a particular kind of clay body.. stoneware, white stoneware, porcelain ... ? 7. Have you used it under a glaze and what are the results like? 8. Does anybody have any examples of this technique that they would be willing to share? I've seen this discussed in a number of places but there are very few if any examples that I have been able to come across. 9. I know about over saturating the body and if it goes on too heavy it tuns a greenish color as well as making sure keep the bottom clean so it doesn't stick to the shelves but I am wondering if there is anything else I should avoid with this, any bad experiences? Thanks a bunch Rob

I see flashing slips generally associated with wood/salt/soda fired atmospheres. My question is do they work in a gas reduction firing without the addition of soda or salt? if so does anyone have any examples that they care to show? Thanks

Hi, Does anyone have any experience with diamond grinding bits for rotary tools (dremel)? Is there a huge difference between what is available from Amazon vs Dimaondcore or what Sheffield Pottery has? A full set on Amazon is fairly inexpensive ~$15-$20 for a whole set while a set on Sheffield is $70 and the DC ones are $15-$26 per bit. Thanks