[Help with using a Duncan Automatic Teacher-Plus Kiln]

Not a downer at all! I'm so new to this, so the wider perspective is really helpful, I think its what I need the most.  I was under the impression that these fast firings were basically incomplete firings that would cause my ware to be brittle or have some other structural issue. Your comment is giving me the impression that these pieces are fully bisque fired, and if I do a glaze firing, the glaze might not turn out the way I want, but the pieces will be complete and structurally fine,  am I understanding that correctly? 

Thank you so much! I feel so zoomed in on the timing and the knob etc, the context is so helpful 

[Help with using a Duncan Automatic Teacher-Plus Kiln]

On 10/20/2021 at 11:22 AM, Bill Kielb said:

So the slowest this thing will go is the switch set on auto and the top element switch in the off position. The bottom elements will cycle on the timer(s)  until after two hours they will go to full on and stay on till the end of firing. Meanwhile starting with  the top switch off (knob arrow pointing up to 12:00) and turning counterclockwise at the end of the two hours will be as slow as it can reasonably go. If that all works, then there is a procedure to calibrate the top switch which may reveal if it is just out of calibration or needs to be replaced.

I tried this and was still only able to reach about 5 hours. I added some more ware to the kiln like JohnS suggested, then started at 12 o'clock, waited 2 hours, turned to 10 o'clock, waited 2 hours, turned to 830, and then it shut off after about an hour. Can you tell me about the procedure to calibrate the top switch?

[Help with using a Duncan Automatic Teacher-Plus Kiln]

On 10/18/2021 at 8:19 PM, Bill Kielb said:

Do you have an automatic / manual switch? If yes, in the manual mode the bottom elements will be on. In the auto mode the bottom elements will cycle on the built in interval timers. If the interval timers have failed closed then the bottom elements will stay on all the time. Question, in auto mode do the bottom elements  cycle on and off?

Oh thank you for mentioning this! I had been messing around with that switch when I was trying to troubleshoot and it was in manual mode when I noticed the bottom elements getting red hot. In auto mode the elements cycle on and off, including when the knob is in the off position. I guess next step is to measure the heat like John suggested!

[Help with using a Duncan Automatic Teacher-Plus Kiln]

Hi all!

I made a few more attempts with the same result - I did the "manual"  schedule that was suggested but still had very short firings. I was still worried that I has mistaken the position of "OFF" on my knob so I just tried again to turn the switch while observing the kiln to double check where "off" was. When I'm in the off position, the kiln still creates heat but the elements are much quieter than when I'm in any other position. As soon as I turn the knob at all, the elements get louder. I left the kiln in the off position and watched for a few minutes, and realized that the bottom elements were getting red hot very quickly.

Here is my new theory, maybe someone can let me know if it seems likely: There is a wiring issue with my kiln where no matter what position the knob is in,  the bottom set of elements is at full blast. That's why no matter what I do to try to control the timing of my firing, it always ends within 4 hours. 

Maybe there's something about electrical kilns that would explain away my theory, I'm curious if anyone has any thoughts Thank you as always! 

[Help with using a Duncan Automatic Teacher-Plus Kiln]

9 minutes ago, JohnS said:

I think we have the same kiln, but... What's the low manual toggle? 

Here's the toggle I have on mine

2 minutes ago, JohnS said:

I started at 10 o' clock and sat there for two hours, increased to 8:30 for an hour and 50 minutes, then to 7 o' clock for an hour and 10 minutes, then moved to "Overglaze" setting for two hours, then to "Ceramic"

I tried something like this yesterday and it shut off in the 8:30 position, barely reached 4 hours. Very strange! Something else has to be wrong

[Help with using a Duncan Automatic Teacher-Plus Kiln]

On 7/29/2020 at 1:16 PM, K S said:

I really like my Duncan Teacher Plus.  Question: For bisque and glaze firing, I start the switch at the 10:00 position, even though no markings are there. I turn the switch to 8:00 position two hours later, 6:00 position two hours later, etc. I keep the toggle at Low Manual. My witness cones from the top, middle and bottom shelves are all the same. Sometimes I do a drop hold on a glaze firing to heal pinholes. Do any of you have a better firing schedule?

My firings are still going too fast and this comment caught my eye. Wouldn't keeping the toggle at low manual keep the kiln on low for the entirety of the firing? That's how the manual describes this setting.  I'm curious to try it, but I want to make sure I understand it.  Would the kiln eventually reach temp even at low?

[Help with using a Duncan Automatic Teacher-Plus Kiln]

20 hours ago, JohnS said:

The flat bit should basically be the location where the arrow should be. 

I played around with rotating the knob and this seems to be the answer, fingers crossed!  going to try one of the firing schedules described in the thread. thanks everyone! 

 

20 hours ago, neilestrick said:

I have never seen that type of knob on a kiln

you are right that it is a random replacement knob! I assumed that all knobs would be standard in some way but i guess not  : )

[Help with using a Duncan Automatic Teacher-Plus Kiln]

20 minutes ago, Bill Kielb said:

Makes sense. When your new line drawn on the switch  is at 12:00 is the kiln off? If so, then it appears you indexed it correctly with your line.

The kiln never turns off as long as the kiln sitter button is pushed in, no matter where I turn the knob

[Help with using a Duncan Automatic Teacher-Plus Kiln]

On 7/1/2021 at 7:16 AM, neilestrick said:

If I remember correctly these switches have to be installed upside down.

Hi there! I've just finished reading this thread after trying to fire my Teacher Plus kiln last Friday and having it shut off after 4 hours. I've decided to follow a firing schedule offered in this thread, but reading your comment made me realize that maybe my switch is upside down? I drew on a new line on the opposite side of my knob, and now when I rotate it, it snaps to the overglaze and ceramic positions according to that new line.  Does this jive with what you're saying about these switches? 

 

Thanks to everyone in this thread for all the info! I would honestly be lost without it