petrichor

I am a little unsure but around 100ft2. When entering the cabin, you first enter a tiny entryway (10ft2) and then this room. The room now function as a kind of entryway too: too cold in the winter to use, and uneccesary in the summer. Poorly insulated. From this room there are two doors: one to the bathroom and one to a new lilttle hallway (!) and from this hallway there are doors to the living room and bedrooms. So, there is a room in between the "kiln room" and the living areas but as a said, people walk in and out so the fumes have to be vented in a way. I think I believe most in a direct ventilation: a sort of hose close to the exhaust-hole of the kiln. But, I saw on youtube that this tube should be directed upwards to get the best sucktion: I was thinking of just stuffing it into the fireplace...but that is low close to the floor, so maybe I have to make a small hole in the roof. Not too tempting, though.

Aha! I have never used a vent, but that sound very doable, yes! I have seen the indirect vents (the hoods) but they require a lot of new air into the room, and i cannot open the windows. i could send in a little air thorugh a crack in the door, but that's all. So you think is is possible to just put the vent tube into the fireplace/chimney?

Alright thanks for your detailed answer! Most people I know have their kiln in the basement, but yes, I cannot imagine that the kiln cares if it is 10 or -10 degrees as long as it is possible to turn the kiln on. The differance between room temperature and max kiln temp is so large anyway. Yes, the ventilation is a big worry. In the summer, I can open doors and windows, but in the winter I would have to vent the kiln out of the chimney somehow. There are two doors between this kiln room an living areas - BUT one has to go through the room to get to the bathroom and with the opening and closing of doors the air would enter living areas and bedrooms. Again, I don't fire THAT often but it has to be possible to live and sleep in the cabin during firings. Do you think it is possible to ventilate a kiln enough for this use? Earlier I have had my kiln in an industrial room with a window, no other ventilation. So I am absolutely unqualified when it comes to ventilation. Yes, you are right. I have seen a gas kiln inside, but not inside a house. I just thought - I have a chimney in the room, sooo maybeeee. But I would need years of planning. Just curious to hear peoples initial thoughts.

Hello! I am in the process of setting up my very first studio. I am setting it up in my old mountain cabin and I have high hopes! However, I am a little concerned regarding ventilation. The "kiln room" will be inside the cabin. the room is the most exterior room, a kind of extended hallway. There are windows, but they cannot be opened. There is however a fireplace in the room, with a chimney. There is one wall and door between this room and the next, which also is a hallway. from there there are doors to the bedrooms and the living area. The room gets super cold in the winter - down to freezing (0C, 30F). When i am at the cabin i only heat is sparsly, so it seldom reaches normal room temperature in the winter. My main questions are: I have NO idea of how well the room should be ventilated for us to sleep and live two rooms away. is it possible to install some kind of vent that sends the fumes from the kiln up the chimney? does it damage the kiln to be in / and operate in temperatures that low? Will it be VERY engery consuming to fire a cone 7 in such a cold room, or does it not matter that much? I am planning to install an electric kiln but dreaming of a gas kiln too. What extra precaution needs to be done when installing a gas kiln? Can i use the chinmey for ventilation? Can such a kiln be installed inside? Very thankful for all tips or input!

maybe? we call it blue clay, a marine clay that is silver blue but fires red.

Sorry, i should have written: i have found "blue clay", a marine clay very common in norway. it is blue/grey but fires red.

Hello, I have recently started experimenting with some local earthenware i found close to my home. I made the clay into a slip and used a regular kitchen sieve to remove the largest particles. I find that the clay is harder to throw than my standard clays - no surprise - but I wonder why? It collapses pretty fast, and i can only make small objects. My main problem though, is trimming. The clay very often cracks up when i trim: the trimming tool sticks and suddenly a whole chunk of the clay is missing. also, it just cracks up. I have tried to trim the objects when they are less dry, but then the walls have no strength at all. My questions are: - is this typical for earthenware? usually i work with stoneware, so i don´t really know. - should i have sifted the clay with a finer mesh? a kitchen sieve is pretty crude, but i only have a glaze sieve and nothing went through. i also was concerned that particles that i would like to keep would get stuck. - any other theories why the clay is so fiddly? - i have bisque fired it, but not glaze fired it yet. but if i used a too coarse sieve, can it be that the finishes objects will be of poorer quality because the clay may contain non-vitrifiable materials?

Hello, The title says all I suppose. I am roaming around on glazy, looking for glazes for wood firing. I have some that I really like for mid/high fire gas firing, I was wondering if glazes like that work for wood firing, too? If the cone is right. I always supposed they did, but when I choose "wood firing" in the searches, it excluded the reduction glazes, even if the the cone is the same.