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Everything posted by Andere

  1. Someday, I hope we get that far! It'll be outdoors, so the kiln won't be a permanent fixture and it's very unlikely there will be both a car and a firing cycle needed on the same day. The goal is to meet the need (i.e. talk the landlord into it) of an electric car charging spot (no one has one in the town of a hundred people, but people's out-of-town friends do) that can be used to charge a car two or three times a year, and power the kiln two or three times a year. The kiln will be moved, set up, loaded, plugged in, etc. etc. for each firing cycle. Highly not ideal, I know, but its the high d
  2. Replaced all the elements, replaced the connectors (got them crimped real good,) replaced the sitter tube, replaced a couple bricks... if anyone's curious, a kiln picked up at a garage sale for $175-$250 (no one can remember exactly what we paid for it) has cost about $600 total. For a working kiln with new elements, of this size, that seems a fair price! ...and we are really hoping we got the kiln sitter back together in the right order. It was a fun little puzzle to assemble and the diagram in that Skutt PDF is super fuzzy. Next step is a place to plug it in. We got permission to
  3. Awesome, I will give them a call tomorrow. I like the idea of a connector that is re-usable, and doesn't require special tools to install!
  4. Yeah I have no reason to believe they've been replaced; with this much corrosion on the connectors (kiln sitter was fried as well) they are probably original. Everything else looks ok, so I think will pick up elements and connectors separately instead of Olympic's "replacement package," as it contains parts that don't apply to a model this old. I'm wondering if corrosion like this is from the kiln being fire damp. Inside of the kiln shows no corrosion, but it's from the wet side of the west coast and may have been fired with condensation on the external components.
  5. Hey, we're still working on this 70's era Olympic kiln! Cleaning out cobwebs in the wiring and found the connectors were thoroughly corroded and, I'm guessing, not safe to run current through. We were hoping to test fire this weekend but have decided to hold off until we can replace the connectors. What I'm wondering is, is it possible to uncrimp and recrimp with fresh connectors, or is it likely the element pigtail is too weak or short to hold up? There's enough slack in the external wiring to strip back a bit and crimp on fresh wire. It's the element side that concerns me. Seventy-five cent
  6. Thanks for this perspective! I will collect and post some of the muck, it's legendary for its sliminess and ability to swallow things. Cold bentonite and clay soil upwellings are a local landscape feature and when wet and active, occasionally eat cows. I have gotten my hands on a more recent and very thorough geological survey from the 1980's and am going through it for PPM data, but looking like it's all well below safe thresholds for both sedimentary deposits and native stone. Selenium, oddly enough, is not present in our area; animal feed is fortified with it as the deficiency in local fora
  7. Yeah, agate is a silicate with various impurities that give it pattern and color. Ground up it would probably go quite nice in a glaze, but I'm curious what would happen if it were sliced thin and fired. Hopefully melt and not explode! We're working out a vent/hood system before firing to funnel fumes out of the building. I will, thank you! Looks like a very interesting book. I will compare those numbers. I have a mine assay report from the mid 1950's. It's for a deposit of weathered-out clay and rhyolite a few miles away but similar overall geology; very minute amounts, far
  8. I'll start by saying I know nothing- I have two housemates with school backgrounds in ceramics and am helping catalyze their ceramics studio dreams as we wait for covid to be over. My housemates are hoping to make functional ware, bowls and mugs and the like with commercial clays and glazes while I'll be off playing with rocks and dirt and seeing what happens when they get fired. We live in a very geologically rich region with vibrantly colored soils ranging from purple volcanic tuff, black, blue and yellow phyllite, celadonite deposits, red paleosol, yellow and green volcanic ash depos
  9. Good to know, cone 6 is our planned upper limit. Will be doing a test firing cycle to see if temperature is good here in the next few weeks. Thanks for this, I'll pick up some element pins with the rest of the hardware (it lost its hinge pin and lid brace arm somewhere along the way!) Olympic is still manufacturing much the same kiln, so should be fairly easy to find the right bricks when the time comes.
  10. Hey! Some friends and I are in process of setting up a vintage 2327 Olympic kiln, if I'm reading the serial number correctly it was manufactured in the mid 1970's. We're all a bit new to the process and have never fired it before, and as we're in a very remote part of central Oregon, local resources & advice is many hours' drive away. I know it's not the ideal for a starter kiln but sometimes you do your best with what's available. The kiln has been in dry storage for fifteen years; prior to that, I don't know its history. The inside of the kiln appears free from mold or corrosion, t
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