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AOEYnes

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About AOEYnes

  • Birthday March 26

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    www.tromsoblat.no

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  • Location
    Northern Norway
  • Interests
    Biblestudy and meteorology. Growing wheat

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  1. Hello, I am getting told that opening the kiln while it is still warm ( more than 300°F) is harmful for the elements and will wear them out quicky. I am thinking of a electric (oxidative) oven with bare metal heating elements inside. I would like to try different techniques of coldglazing my earthenware for kitchen use. Eg tannins or milk. Is it disadviced because of the possible damage to the oven?
  2. It is definetly interesting to see the values, but with sediments, one bay can differ greatly from another so the clay in different places , with only miles apart can have quite dissimilar percentages of the different oxides, so using a table like this has no appliance when it comes to mixing.
  3. Hello, I have been in contact with different companies and labs and asked if they did oxide analysis of clay and how much it would cost. Some did not, some only analysed metal content, not oxides and some labs vere a bit expensive. I am hoping to, in time afford a thorough analyse from SGS Minerals, which would cost apprx 350$. I use marine clay, arctic brick clay which is ice age deposited everywhere here in Norway. This near polar area holds billions and billions of very fine earthenware clay. Much more finely particled than any other clay or porcelain. I am hoping to be able to better mix the clay as glaze base if I can acquire the percentages of its different constituents. I know mix the clay body with 15% puraflo blueclay (50% SiO2). Anyway, I like this clay, I think using lokal clay is the base for any potterycraft and I would like to know a bit more about it, do you know of anyone that can do a simple analyse of this clay for the 4-5 most prevalent oxides?
  4. I have had pretty good results with 1 part calcium borate and 2 parts clay. Without any addition of oxides it have a tendency to crawl. That and the fact that calcium borate is quite expensive made me want to try GB. This glaze is intended to be used in kitchenwares, bowls, jugs, etc. Rustic and easy, so the glaze does not need to be crystal clear or super smooth.
  5. Ok, thank you. I am not very accustomed to the way of calculating. I try to have my recipes as simple and symmetric as possible because my base glaze are built around the same earthenware clay that I use for the bodies. The clay is arctic marine clay and I glazefire at 1040 C° Kaolin is much more refractory, or melt resistant than my marine clay. Mixing with marine clay should lower the melting point as it melts completely at 1150C°, or? Ok, I know the mix 2-2-1, GB-clay-kalifeldspar melts at 1260C°, but I cant go higher than 1100 when I use earhenware. And I want to burn my glazes at 1040. The reason I now use feldtspar in my glaze is that I have found that it helps with the crazing that would otherwise have occured if I only used Clay and Calcium borate as I used to. Could the feldtspar be retarding the melting process when I now use it together with GB. Could a mix of 50/50 gerstley and clay be better? I use an accurate digital scale and I use a nabtherm electrical oven.
  6. Hello, I have bought a bucket of gerstley borate, and have started making some glaze samples. I want to use GB as a cheaper alternative to calcium borate in my earthenware clay glaze. I have had serious problems with crawling, using 2 parts clay and 1 part calcium borate also. In my glaze samples now with GB I used 1 part kali feldspar, 1 part GB and 2 parts blue clay (grey earthenware), and same with 2 parts GB. 1-1-2 and 1-2-2, feldspar, GB, clay. And with additions of 0.4 parts FeO2 and 0.2 parts Pb02 (lead) . I was expecting to see this melt easily and completely, but to my eye the glaze turned out totally matte and barely non porous. What is the reason for the lack of vitrification or glassyness. Can anyone give me hints about this? The white samples have small amounts of tin oxide and the bottom has CuO2
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