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Malcolm

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  1. Thanks for the replies Babs and Min. The John Britt video is excellent. I will watch his whole series. I need to get some equipment then do some rigorous testing.
  2. I know you’re right and I will check the Specific Gravity of my glazes. I thought it was OK to run excess water from a bucket before stirring and always have done so but I now know certain ingredients can dissolve in water and I would be running those off. It’s very hot weather here and I can put my glaze buckets in the sun and get the water to evaporate off. I didn’t see a link and so I don’t know who Min or Neil are.
  3. Yes, I guess the inside was applied too thin but the disappearing glaze was double dipped on top of that. I must have wiped the rim for any overspill before double dipping, I am sure that I let it dry before I did. I will send a pic of the inside.
  4. I am firing to cone 9. I recall double dipping the glaze but I am not sure that I stirred between. I bet it was a bad mix of glaze and that the surface wasn’t covered properly Even though it did look it. After I glazed the inside I know that I didn’t wait overnight before glazing the outside. I will make that part of my practice in the future. I thought I could recognise when the bisque was damp and couldn’t take the glaze but it looked thick when I placed it in the kiln. As you can see nothing ran down the pot so any glaze must have gone into the atmosphere. Thanks, anyway more resting is needed.
  5. I believe you’re right, the bottom glaze does look thin and it must be a fault of glaze application but as there is no evidence of the glaze running off, it must have burnt off or vaporised or something, it was well covered when it went in the kiln, and a bit of a shock when I opened up. I will do some more tests and post the results if anyone is interested. Thanks
  6. Hi Babs, Everything you say is logical. I really do think that the pot was dry when I glazed the outside. It was a long while before each procedure and I always stir my glazes well before glazing anything. I have test tiles that work but I will do some small pots, dipping the inside and outside together and see if theres a difference. It does look like the glaze has been rejected by the ware. My thought that it was hotter on the outside of a pot than the inside and that I was over firing the glaze because the pyrometer is not registering the correct temperature. But that doesn’t seem to be a theory that anyone else supports, so I guess that’s wrong. Anyway more testing is the way forward. Thanks.
  7. I make purely decorative vases and so I don’t worry about food safety, but I guess it would be unsafe. This is hand built from a rolled slab. I know that the middle section looks like the glaze has slipped but it was a deliberate effect.The middle section was tightly bound with string and covered with white slip then bisque fired. When I glazed I poured the inside first with a turquoise glaze then dipped the bottom in the same. Poured the central (slipped) section with a white semi matt Then double dipped the top down to the middle section with the disappearing blue glaze. It obviously got inside and worked there (and on top of the turquoise) I mix all of the glaze thoroughly before applying and don’t glaze on saturated bisque ware so I don’t think that the problem is in the application. The other glazes seemed to fire ok. This is a commercial glaze and so I don’t know the ingredients. My workshop is planned for working at this temperature (in England what we refer to as stoneware) and all of my glazes should fire together.
  8. I think it is a copper blue. But the body is white and feels like the original clay body with no glaze on. Ignore the other glazes at the bottom as they have fired as predicted. I have heard of flashing but associated it with flame burning kilns, can this happen in electric kilns? What causes it?
  9. Thanks for these suggestions, I guess I am putting my oxides on pretty thickly in the recesses and probably don’t need them so heavily applied. Dipping would be better and certainly less messy. I only use the cheap garden spray technique to prevent the glaze from colouring up. I tend to collect the overspray in the big plastic box that I use as a makeshift spraybooth. If I try an additive, what do you suggest Benzine? Application at the green ware stage is worth a go. Thanks Magnolia Mud.
  10. I often apply oxides under glazes to emphasise textures, but have found that dipping an oxide pot into the glaze contaminates the bucket of glaze ( I only have small amounts of glaze) and so have begun to spray my glazes with a garden spray. I find this works well. Is there a better way around this?
  11. I have an open top kiln and fire in oxidation at 1240c. I glazed both inside and outside with the same commercial blue glaze, quite thickly. The interior of the pot came out as I wanted, but on the outside the glaze had virtually disappeared. I am very pleased with the result as I like the contrast but I would like to control the glaze better. I must admit that I am using the preset temperature controller and not cones, which would be more accurate. Is the interior of a pot cooler in the kiln and do I need to decrease the temperature? Or is it something else?
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