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Cameo

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  1. @Bill Kielb I mean someday that would be great but I'm honestly just trying to get it working as is. I don't have a controller, this old kiln just has a kiln sitter, a timer and low medium high knobs on each level. Maybe this is the wiring diagram to their new and improved model 286...
  2. @Mark C. I have a kiln sitter on my baby kiln and have been working with one for several years lol but when I first got that one, I honestly did that, tried to power it up without setting up the kiln sitter and wondered what I'd done wrong. Hahah. Lots of trial and error went into learning my first kilb kiln but that's not what's happening now. The sitter is all set up and it was staying on for some number of minutes or an hour even,, then the power button would pop back out. Kinda like it would if the kiln sitter switch had fallen but it hadn't.
  3. @neilestrick it's a kiln sitter with a timer and knobs on each stack for low, medium, high
  4. Hey all! I'm back with the wiring diagram and it hurts my brain. Thought I'd post to see if I'm seeing it right. It looks like there are only two connectors to the elements on the terminal block in the diagram? The kiln is firing up like normal on low. Every other cool is lit as to be expected. On Medium and high, all the coils in the middle and lower stack light up and appear to be firing up as normal. On medium and high, the top stack shuts off. I no longer hear buzzing and all the coils go black. The power plunger button on the kiln sitter also has a hard time staying put. It seems to be popping back out seemingly without cause. Any suggestions? I've attached the wiring diagram.
  5. Ah. That totally makes sense. Also honestly makes sense with why 2 are joined together. When it's in the low function, those ones don't turn on. Ok thanks guys. I'll give Seattle Potrery Supply a call!
  6. Hey guys! Thanks so much for your informative and knowledgeable responses as always. They weren't connected when I got the kiln, but they printed out very unhelpful overly simple directions that said it doesn't really matter what goes where so long as the incoming goes here and outgoing goes there. .. I haven't been successful in finding a wiring diagram. Any suggestions? This is the kiln: http://www.seattlepotterysupply.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=sps_ecat&Product_Code=30286-WDC&Category_Code=2ISK1 You're correct, 2 of them are joined together. It's like that on every stack though, where there are 4 wires but three connections as two are joined together. But on the other 2 sections, there are 3 tabs=3 wires. Only the top has an extra. @Bill Kielb the tap is on the element connection, yes, so I'll be sure to remove it. The previous owner sat on this for 3 years without ever installing an outlet. I have to assume he's the one who put the tape on because it appears to never have been turned on with the tape, as it's not melted at all. I agree, it looks like regular ol black electric tape. Also, that is the indicator light there, you're correct. I have pretty much the same thing on my lil baby skutt but thats a cone 6 max kiln so it doesn't get nearly as hot.
  7. Hey again! So I'm connecting the wiring inside the boxes of each layer of my "new" old big mama kiln, which had to be disconnected in order to move the kiln, and I have a couple of questions. See pic 1: some of the connectors have electrical tape over them where the wires connect to the elements. I unwrapped a couple and the connectors look fine underneath (like the bare one in the pic.) Some of them were never covered thoough... Any idea why the previous owner would have done this? Is it safer/ unsafe? Pic 2: In the top box there are 4 tabs on the block to connect the elements but only 3 connectors (but 4 elements, 2 are connected together on one connector). The other 2 stacks/boxes only have 3 tabs on the blocks, corresponding to 3 connectors, no extra tab. Why is there an extra on the top block? Is it OK to leave it like that without something plugged into it? Thanks again y'all! I don't know what I'd do without you!
  8. All of this has been so SO helpful. You guys are seriously invaluable.
  9. @liambesaw it's only 6 feet of conduit. The rest of it is fed through the beams of my basement.
  10. @neilestrick ok that makes sense to me. Thank you so much for taking the time to respond. I'll check the code but that's how my whole house is wired and the who electrician installed the 30 amp breaker for my baby skutt kiln said that's how it's supposed to be. See pic attached.
  11. I want it to be safe, so forgive me for asking, but would it be OK to just screw the non-insulated copper wire in the cord to the metal outlet box and the same thing on the other side and use the insulated white as the ground then? I just really don't want to pull this dang cord back out of the ceiling and go back to home depot for the 6th time. I'm so frustrated but my little baby skutt kiln just isn't powerful enough for what I need anymore. It was fine when I rarely fired anything and ceramics was a hobby but now this is my livelihood and I need the big kiln to be up and running like yesterday. Ive been working at it for a few weeks and I feel just as lost on it as ever. So. Damn. Frustrated.
  12. @neilestrick OK. Thank you. That's so frustrating because I already ran a cord with 3 wires through the ceiling but removed it because someone else told me I needed 3 insulated wires. My little skutt was so much easier to wire up... The internet says that the green in the power cord is a neutral and a return path that carries the current back to the source so I thought it made sense that it would need to be insulated in the cord in the ceiling. The conduit only runs from where the wire comes out of the wall in the garage to the outlet. In the ceiling I just drilled big ass holes through the beams. The conduit is what home depot recommended but it would be easy to replace it with metal.
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