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Laurence Black

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  1. Thanks everyone, I sorted it. Just in case anyone gets the same issue, here's what I did: I popped it apart by stacking various pieces of wood between the head and the base and using leverage. The photo below was taken at this stage; before cleanup. I then used an air compressor to blow any loose stuff out. Then sprayed degreaser into the bearing. Then flushed it out with water. Allowed it to dry in the sun. Packed some proper grease into the bearing. Also cleaned everything rusty with wire wool and WD40. Popped it back together. Now it spins beautifully. I've just given it a good spin and fully expect it to still be spinning at Christmas...
  2. Thanks. I've given it a good old dose of WD40. I'll leave it a while and see if anything happens.
  3. Hi Hulk, Here's a picture of the bottom side. Nothing drops and it all seems very strongly connected Like I could turn a pickup truck on it. It spins okay most of the time at very slow speeds. Any faster and it judders and halts.
  4. Hi, I wonder if anyone can help? This morning I went to the closing down sale of a pottery in London and bought, among other excellent things, a huge heavy (38lb) Podmore banding wheel. It ran like silk and span forever. Drove it home and now it judders and stops straight away. There doesn't seem to be an obvious way into it. There are no screws or access points. Anything I can do or has my shoddy driving destroyed it? Thanks.
  5. Hi everyone. Thanks for all your answers. The kiln is now on a proper tiled surface on a concrete floor. I appreciate that a key reason is in case of issues/problems such as hot things falling from the kiln, but I was curious about how much heat comes out of the bottom in normal use. I wanted a rough idea of the heat work, not a max temperature. So I thought I'd try an egg in a pan first, then work my up through vegetables etc. I've got a K type thermocouple that can record maximums, but it's not as much fun as an egg... This was a glaze firing reaching 1250C (2282F), and as you can see, the egg in a pan is immediately beneath the centre of my Nabertherm Top 45. I was very surprised to find in the morning that the egg hadn't cooked at all, just dried out a bit. Hooray for insulation!
  6. Thanks for the replies. I fired it empty but with the shelves and props in first time and followed the manufacturers instructions. As this was my very first fire ever, I was very careful and followed all the instructions in the massive manual. I put 3 posts in and ensured they were all aligned. It was a slow bisque fire. The controller handles this automatically, but as I was excited I kept going in and looking at the temps. It was all correct and nice and slow. I even managed, with enormous self control, to wait until it was cool before I opened the lid. I couldn't have been more careful, so the hairline crack suggestion makes sense to me.
  7. 3 posts were holding up the shelf. It's on a fire blanket on some thin laminate which is directly on concrete in a shed. It will be going on tiles for the next firing.
  8. Hi, I've just done my first ever proper firing and the top shelf snapped in half. Taking my 2 best pieces with it. The 2 shelves below were fine. I have no idea why and am trying to figure it out. It's a new kiln (Nabertherm Top 45), I followed the gigantically complicated instructions for doing the very first firing of the empty kiln and furniture. That went fine. Then I did this, my very first ever biscuit firing of my first ever home made stuff. Could barely sleep for the excitement of being able to open the kiln. Any idea what would have caused it? Could it be that the stuff was too heavy or too badly distributed? Many thanks, Laurence
  9. Thanks a lot. Did it and it worked. I'm very impressed with how beautifully easy it is to recycle. I can be less precious with pots I'm not sure of now I know how easy it is to turn them into something else. I think I love clay even more now...
  10. Hi, I'm a relative newbie (1 year at evening classes) and have just got a home setup. Just in time for the lock-down, thankfully. I've seen tips online for recycling bone dry clay, and have half a bucket full and ready to go. The question is about clay at other states: 1. The white bucket of pretty damp clay. It is the remains of lots of some very sloppy throwing from yesterday. Once it has stiffened a bit can I just wedge it and use it? Or should I put a lid on the bucket for a while to homogenise it a bit? 2. The yellow bucket is what I have been washing my hands and tools in. It is half full of water and the bottom half is settled clay sediment. I haven't used anything but water and the same clay in it. Can I recycle this? I may be a bit cheap, but it seems a shame to throw it out. I really appreciate your help and have found the forums invaluable for starting out. Many thanks Laurence
  11. Hi, I REALLY appreciate the advice. I do help out as much as I can on other topics, but motors and potters' wheels are new to me. I took the motor out and one of the brushes. Here are some photos. The brush has E27 on the side but a web search for E27 brings up a totally different bigger brush. Measuring it with calipers, it measures 7.72mm x 7.75. It looks square so my measuring is probably out. Any ideas of the correct official sizing/nomination of the brush? Is it worn down more than it should be? Should I try sanding it or try and get a new set? Looking in the hole, the commutator does look a bit dirty, as far as I can make out. Would it do any good to spray in contact cleaner or should I get one of those commutator cleaners? If none of this helps I will try and find an electric motor shop. Sadly London is mainly chains of stores and coffee shops. The old workshops and industrial areas have gone. And people don't fix stuff, they throw it out and buy new. Online. Whoops, slipped into a general moan there... Thanks again for the help. Laurence
  12. Hello everyone, Thanks for all the previous help. I'm afraid I have another question. I bought an old Brent model B. It is starting to look like I bought a lemon. I reconnected the foot pedal. I fixed the earth. I replaced the severely frayed belt. Finally powered her up and the motor is flashing and making noises when it gets up to a reasonable speed. Not even fast. Any ideas if this is fixable at home? Are the brushes replaceable on a 1/3hp model? And might this help? I'd appreciate any advice before I get even further into opening it up. I want to do my best to fix it up before I give up on it and return it. The eBay seller said it was working fine. It clearly isn't but second hand potters wheels don't come up often here in England, and a 250 mile drive to return it is about as long a drive as we have! Thanks
  13. Hi, Would anyone know what the correct outside length is for the belt on the Brent model B? I live in England and getting branded parts is difficult and exorbitantly expensive. To be honest, I am also pretty cheap... I saw that the very badly deteriorated old belt had a code (430j 4), used that code to buy a cheap ($7 equivalent) belt. The grooves were correct but it was too long. Wrongly assumed the code covers the length. I could try and measure the very old shabby one I have, but I'm not sure if it's stretched or how good my measuring is. If anyone know the specified length it would be a great help Many thanks, Laurence
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