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  1. I have a few questions about how to construct this nifty tool. I'm not sure what Bottle Rx film means, is that a glass bottle? How big? I see an angle on the 10" tube leading from the bottle to the 90 turn, what is the angle? Or is it important? What is the length of the tube sticking up on the right side of the picture? Do I use an tube 'elbow' to make that 90 turn? Lastly, is this whole apparatus sitting inside of a hollow wood or foam box? You didn't know you'd open a can of worms here did you? I read that part about gross adjustment, I just don't know if it voids the warranty on the kiln if I were to drill a hole in the top. Thank you again, Suz
  2. Wow! Your firing schedule just blew me away--and my theory of the vent not working up to par. After reading your post, the pinholes in my work seem to point to a unhappy clay body/glaze fit. I've grown to really enjoy WC609 and hate to change and just recently purchased many commercial glazes. Is your pottery mostly thrown and thin? I hand build with slabs no thicker than 1/4" with this clay. What kind of kiln/vent set up do you use? And do you turn the fans off for the cool down? I haven't ventured to dive back into glaze formulation, I took it many years ago in college. I'm glad you referenced the books you used. I notice that this clay also has a slightly lower COE than most of the other popular Laguna clays. Have you had any difficulty with crazing? All that you can show and would like to tell about your work and glaze recipes I'd love to know. Thank you again for blowing my socks off with your ONCE--I feel like I'd be teetering on cliff--fired schedule!
  3. I did the smoke test with a cold kiln and heated to 150 degrees to make up for 43 degree TC offsets and no smoke was going in around the lid or kiln. Slider on bypass box was closed. Yes, I'd love to know how to make a manometer! This piece was from a drop and hold from a slow cone 6 down to 1950 degrees for 30 minutes. I've never heard of the term 'packed bed porosity', it sounds like you're saying the COE of the glaze is too tight for the body? And the viscosity, (the brushing medium the mfr added won't allow it to flow?) This clay, #65 has only a 4.8 COE and is crazing with other glazes. I did bisque this piece to 03, I read on Digital Fire to try bisque firing hotter to get rid of pinholes. Thank you for your reply!
  4. The smoke is being pulled into the fan motor assembly, see photo 1, and the gap between the 3" tube and the collection box that is welded to the rolling kiln stand under the kiln. But at 100 degrees the smoke is not pulled into the kiln near the lid or any other place around the body of the kiln.
  5. Thank you for your reply, To answer your questions, I will get some pictures of the pinholes uploaded later today. I do not have Bmx5 clay at this time to run tests. The pinholes seem arbitrary, some glazes like Cinnabar from Mayco will have only one pinhole in a piece and others like Blue Surf will have multiple scattered throughout. When applying the glazes, I do not shake the containers--only stir the glazes. I notice there are always bubbles present while brushing the glazes. My work is quite textured using bisque stamps. However, the pin holes appear on the inner smooth surfaces as well as on the textured surfaces. As I apply the glaze I load the brush well and go slowly to prevent more bubbles from appearing. After each coat (I apply 2-3 coats depending on the recommendation on the container) I inspect the piece for pinholes and rub them out with my finger or a pointed wooden tool. As each piece is finished and ready for firing I inspect again for pinholes and rub/clean to erase. So at the time of loading there are no visible bubbles in the dried glaze. The firing schedules I've used are medium slow to cone 5 or cone 6, The cone 5 schedule was about 10 hours with a drop and soak for one hour at 2012 degrees. The cone 6 schedule was 12 hours with a drop and soak at 1950 degrees for 30 minutes. I use witness cones toward the center of each shelf. In both cases the cones were touching the shelf so it over-fired slightly. I noticed, using lit incense smoke a lot of room air leaking into the joint at the bottom of the fan assembly where the 3" pipe attaches to it. I unscrewed it to see if there was some way to close the gap but there is not. So it is pulling room air into that area before it exits the building. Again, I'll post a photo. Suz
  6. Hello, I'm hoping I can find some help with this topic. I have a new L&L JD230-3 kiln with a vent-sure. I've been using Laguna WC-609/#65 clay body. I use a slow firing schedule by Steve Davis that I read about in the July/Aug 2018 issue Pottery Making Illustrated. It is about a 15 hour schedule where the ramp is 60 degrees/ hour from 1300 deg to 1650 degrees. My schedule is even slower than the published version. My ware is small, thin thrown and handbuilt pieces and is spaced quite evenly, no stacking in the bisque fire. I have the required two holes drilled in the bottom slab for the vent. I'm getting pinholes using various Mayco Stoneware, and Stroke & Coat glazes and and Amaco Celadon and Potter's Choice glazes. I've called Mayco who thinks it may be better to use Bmix or a different clay body. I've called L&L's distributor, who said I could drill a 3rd hole in the bottom but wasn't sure that would do anything and of course does not recommend drilling holes in the top. These are the other things I've tried: Since all of these glazes are brushed on, using a fan brush, layering thick, layering thin, bisque firing to a hot 03, dunking the bisque ware in water, wiping it, allowing it the water to absorb and glazing. Doing a 180 degree drop from peak temp and hold for 1 hour during the glaze firing and let kiln cool the rest as normal. Doing a drop from peak at cone 6 temp down to 1950 and holding for 30 minutes then let the kiln cool naturally. My thought is that I'm just not getting enough clean air into the kiln to oxidize the gasses. The slider on the bypass box was set to less than 1/3 open. I intend to close it more to leave only about 1/8" open. Does anyone have any experience using an L&L kiln and vent-sure that doesn't seem to vent adequately? I'm wondering about drilling holes in the lid. How can i safely get more fresh air into my kiln? Also, does anyone know if Laguna has a cleaner burning white cone 5/6 clay than #65 that is smooth and can be used for handbuilding? Or has anyone seen a difference in the pinholes between Bmix5 and #65? It seems the clay shouldn't be that gassy. But if anyone has experience on a 'cleaner' burning clay, I'd love to hear from you. I've called Laguna, but haven't heard back from them. Thank you for your help! Suz
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