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Tabathos

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  1. Actually that was what he said about the floor repair, but I guess I can actually do it myself. Gonna get some mortar and have some fun. And about the wires, I don't know what he said because I don't understand electrical things lol, but apparently the upper module of the kiln was adjusted to bring more electrical power, or something alike. Glass kilns are designed to bring more heat from the top, apparently they tried to compensate for it. Wires are OK. The previous owner said she changed them before selling it to me. Well, just before she went to a seven years hiatus, and then de
  2. Update on the topic: the technician came to check both of my kilns, and said the damaged floor kiln would work just fine. Said he had a big STOP sign he would give me to put it under the kiln, pretty cool, isn't it? Also said he would quote a reparation for the floor, but have to hear from him again. The other kiln needed some rewiring, and fGs!, elements are so expensive! If I had to rewire all the 8 elements, gonna surpass the price I paid for my little kiln. He also went almost insane checking the wiring. Apparently that kiln was somehow adapted to work as a glass kiln, so had to chec
  3. Thank you very much for the much needed information. That repair of the stand looks great. Just found a tinsmith near to my house, so gotta go when I get back to work in January. Any recommendation on the material? I know about metal, but what kind of metal? Tried searching on the website, but didn't find it.
  4. Oh OK ok, I didn't understood at first what was an angle stand, but it is the one I have. Gotta find someone who make me a custom sheet of metal to supplement it.
  5. Thank you very much for your detailed response. Yes, the rusty one is the bottom of the bottom. I have a stand that is made of pieces of metal, not the ones that have a sheet of metal with a hole in the middle. The upper side is the clean one, and yes, it have been used with a shelf. Then, should I only apply a coat of kiln cement? The woman who sold it told me it worked fine the way it is, but a fellow ceramist told me that it should be repaired and fired the whole bottom in a bigger kiln. I'm not sure of that,
  6. I find that reusing materials that are already in town is better. For example, my friend gave me some Styrofoam pallets, that, while they may not be eco-friendly, were meant to be put in the landfill anyway, so why not put it in good use before that? They work wonders for wrapping the pieces. I also like to reuse bubble wrapping from the pharmacy of my father, and getting whatever boxes from any businness I can. Been struggling to find a balance. Because I would like my package to be aesthetic, with the goal of lasting a good impression. But at the same time, I don't want to make u
  7. They are tricky to find, but the key is consistency. I managed to find both of my kilns and my wheel on Facebook Marketplace. Otherwise I wouldn't have been able to get them, as they are bloody expensive bought new. It may sound absurd, but I told the universe what I needed, and on certain times, I felt the urge to check FB, and voila! New equipment. But you may find OK to set up an alarm and be fast, as they are pretty looked for. Good luck!
  8. Hello, thanks for reading. Got myself an used econo kiln L&L. Wall bricks are in great condition, also the lid. The only 'if' is the bottom, it is damaged as shown in the pictures. What are the steps I should take to repair it? Some spaces between bricks are loose, so I don't know if I should fill them with kiln cement first (well, but after scrapping all the scraps). The bricks are in good condition, is the surface that looks so messy (and the space between them worries me a little). Thanks in advance, my best regards.
  9. Hello Saltedfire, thank you very much for your comment. Storage for me is kinda tricky, as my studio space is tight, but as my pieces are little, I'm gonna find place for them. Your experience is really inspiring! I hope I can live from ceramics one day. Regards,
  10. Hello Callie, thank you very much for your kind words. Yes to everything you said. Currently I have my online store and a IG page. I'm planning to build a solid web presence via SEO and my blog, but it is a long path. It is OK, I was no expecting a blast in sales when I launched my website the last week, but it did pretty well for me being a total amateur. Also the people who bought was very satisfied with the product, so it is an indicator of doing things right. Slowly, but steady and constant. And got comissions, so I'm happy that people is seeing some value in my work. I need t
  11. Hi Mea, I'm a big lurker of your blog. It is like a bible to me in terms of the monetary aspects of the pottery business, and I'm really grateful for your effort into sharing your valuable knowledge. I'm also a graphic designer like you, but I prefer the studio life, so it is very handy to me. Thank you very much for your reply. I'm gonna make the best I can while having my dayjob. Pottery life is kinda tricky. Today was not my best day throwing, but tomorrow is going to be another day.
  12. Hi. This is my first December ever in my ceramics business, and even though there won't be any art shows, I'm confident in online sales (a man can hope). Any advice on this? I don't know how many of my pieces should I make. I intend to work hard this low months to stock the most popular pieces, and also on my web presence and social media. But since I started this year, I lack the practical experience that art shows give. Statiscally speaking, hopefully there would be a boost in sales, but what do you experienced people think? Thanks in advance.
  13. Thank you very much for your insights, Neil. I have my own kiln. I bisque fire at cone 010 and glaze fire at low temperatures, and it seems to work fine. But I want to mix my own glazes and make functional ware, so I bought this book from John Britt called "The complete guide to mid-range glazes: glazing and firing at cones 4-7", and I was thinking of just trying the recipes as they currently are. It seems it won't be as easy as I thought it would be. I guess there are certain ways to reduce the temperature of the glazes of the book using a software, but I guess it doesn't hurt to
  14. Hello. I live in Costa Rica, and in the college where I took some pottery classes, they bisque firing at cone 010. Almost every book I read says that bisque firing should be done at cone 04-06. Any reason our clay is bisqued fired at lower temperature? It is a red clay, with a high content of iron. Our teacher says that iron acts as a flux, so I wonder if that is the reason they decide to fire it at cone 010. I want to make functional pottery and glaze fire at mid range (cone 4-6), because of all the sanitary needs. Stoneware clay is commonly used for these purposes, but it see
  15. Thank you very much for the link, i'll read it later. I mean about stone that they are not in powder form, they solidified. Maybe a more appropriate word is "rock"? I have a lot of it, like 30 kg of feldspar, and 20 kg of the white powders.
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