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Danielle Caron

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About Danielle Caron

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  1. I am quite new with operating a kiln, so my apologies if this question sounds silly. Given that the store where I bought it is closed for at least a month now, as well as Tuckers (who doesn't seem to answer emails) I am asking my question here. Got a new ConeArt 1822 kiln (Bartlett V6-CF - 2 thermocouples). Have fired it 10 times so far. It seems to me that from all previous firings, the clicks of the relays would happen at the same regular rythm, but this morning, as I started a new firing, I noticed that the rythm was uneven. One click followed by two almost simultaneous, then it would change again. Shouldn't the rythm be even from beginning to the end of the firing? Is this a sign of malfunction? There is no error code at the moment.
  2. Ok. That's good to know. I was told the 'story' of spodumene in Pyrex by a potter and why they stopped using it, and I must say that it was at the least worrysome. Thanks for the precision. D
  3. Ah... didn't see "spodumene" as the last ingredient. Highly toxic. I prefer to avoid using it. Unfortunate.
  4. @Min. Thanks again for your great generosity and your quick and detailed replies. This is so great! Will try it all and post good results. Danielle
  5. @ Min. Yes, the dark green stains get on the grey side. I didn't realize the size of the challenge when I started working with porcelain and underglaze. I will definitely try the G1215U, and would like to try your version without 3249 frit as well, however I am not sure that I am experienced enough to adjust all the other quantities to fit 100%. Will do tests with df magnesium matte and blend it with a clear. That is interesting as well. D
  6. Thank you Min . Yes, I have sent an e-mail to Tuckers and I will try calling them on Monday. Here are the glazes I tried so far : Spectrum 1100 transparent , G2926B (DigitalFire - bubbles that translate into pale blue dots), G2934Y from DigitalFire (changes the underglaze colors), G3806C from DigitalFire, WCAC Clear Celadon (don't know the CTE eitheir) from Glazy, Easy E Clear from John Britt, High Calcium semi-matte from John Britt, PSH True Colors clear glaze, the one that produces the best underglaze colors, but so far not clear at all if it crazes, my first trials were not documented enough, but if I can avoid a commercial expensive glaze, I would. From what I understand so far, it would seem that the porcelain has a much higher CTE than all those glazes? Or lower?This is what I get from all the readings I did since my first post earlier. But CTEs are rarely indicated with a recipe.... and it seems that clay suppliers are not often willing to talk about the CTE of their products..
  7. Hello all, I have been using the Tucker's Bright White porcelain (cone 6) for several months now, nice to throw etc. Love it, but when it comes to glazes, that's another matter. I love to paint using underglazes covered with transparent glaze, but so far, after many dozens of trials, using 2 different commercial transparent glazes and trying 5 other recipes suggested for use on porcelain (on digitalfire, etc.), I inevitably end up with crazing. Either straight out from the kiln or after a few uses. It must be a question of thermal expansion, but when I get to that topic, it seems I could spend months or years searching for the solution. A little overwhelming for a beginner like me. So far, I have fired at cone 6, the "slow glaze" option on the Bartlett controller of my new ConeArt kiln and before that at a community studio which, I believe, was firing at a similar standard schedule (crazing also there). Does anyone has an idea of how to fix it ? My pieces are standard thickness (beakers, plates, bowls). Thanks in advance.
  8. @tinbucket The result seems quite interesting. Just left with the difficulties to find the right materials here in Canada (Gillespie borate & Jackson Ball clay). I assume that Gillespie borate could be replaced with Gerstley borate, but Jackson ball clay: this would require some reseach. Thanks. DC
  9. Yes. I found this one earlier (GA6-A), unfortunately it is going over a white or lightly colored slip. Interesting for future use, though. So far, the only one I find that seems to work is the G3806C (from Digital Fire). Definitely will do several test tiles and mini pots before going further. DC
  10. Hi Callie, Thanks a million for your detailed reply. The only kiln I have access to is the school one and they only fire at cone 6. I don't know the details of their firing cycle. Will have to enquire. I will show them your reply. Wondering if firing at cone 6 could work as well with this particular glaze? DC
  11. Hi, I am looking for a transparent glaze that won't cloud the surface of a Plainsman M-390 or M-332 clay fired at cone 6. It could be manufactured or a recipe. A glossy or satin finish, although I read that the more mat it is, the riskier it is to get a cloudy finish as well. I ruined many weeks of efforts with the homemade transparent glaze available at my workshop/class last week. All the pieces came out with a pinkish-beige tone just good enough for the trash can. I then read in John Britt's book (mid-range glazes) that clear glazes on dark stoneware bodies can appear gray when fired due to the underlying iron which affects the color, which I am trying to avoid from now on. Many thanks in advance for your help. DC
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