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Everything posted by kriggins

  1. Your thread was one that I read when researching for my kiln. Ours do look very similar.
  2. Speed could certainly be part of my issue. Trying to fire this thing slowly is a challenge.
  3. The bottom shelf is larger just becuase, but the other shelves are smaller. Using 13" shelves for a 17.5" wide kiln.
  4. So maybe a bag wall on the left to force the flame up? The tricky bit is getting the flame to interact with the load on the bottom shelf before going out of the chimney. Maybe move the walls under the shelf to force the flame back towards the front of the kiln. Or maybe the opposite. Hmm. Some things to play with. Will firing the kiln without load and just cones help me understand what's going on with the flame path or does the lack of load make that a bit worthless? This design is based on off something I think I found here. I'll have to search some more. Thanks for the tip on sorce
  5. Thanks Mark. I'll see if I can figure something out on the flame path.
  6. It's a new digitial guage. Only been used 3 or 4 times. Here's another picture without the bottom shelf so the exhaust path is clearer.
  7. It really didn't come across very well, did it. The bottom shelf is sitting on soft bricks that block the flame from going directly to the chimney. The flue is under the shelf. The opening to get to the chimney is in that spot.
  8. I have a small paragon kiln I converted to a downdraft gas kiln. The temp differences in the kiln are significant. As it is, firing to cone 6, the top cone is all the way over and the bottom cone hasn't moved at all. I probably need to get some 5 and 7 cones to better know how much difference there is, but I'm guessing the top is closer to cone 7 and the bottom 5ish. Added wrinkle, my pyrometer only show 2200 when the top cone goes down. Can too much draw from the chimney cause something like this? The design is a bit janky I know, but supposedly others have made it work. Would using a damper
  9. Thanks for the replies folks. As I look at weight, I am coming to the same conclusion. It would be neat, but likely not feasible. Guess it's going out behind the shed.
  10. Howdy folks, I am in the process of designing a small Minnesota flat-top style kiln like the one described in the document "21st Century Kilns" created by Mel Jacobson and Friends. I was curious if anybody had attempted doing something like this on a movable platform. Ideally, I'd like to build this such that I can roll it out into our driveway for firing and then put it away when done. I do have a spot in the back yard I could build it if necessary, but I'd prefer it be movable. Outside dimensions are going to be roughly 36" x 45" x 36" . Chimney will be brick to the top of the ki
  11. Hi folks, I have a small electric kiln that I have converted to gas. I am rebuilding the chimney and am curious what temperature rating bricks can be used for the upper layers of the chimney. I plan to have 2-3 courses of soft firebrick rated for 2350 degrees at the bottom connected to the flue opening, but I was wondering if I could use bricks rated at 2000 F for the rest of the chimney. That's the best I can find locally. Kevin
  12. I have a new Ward Systems MR750 with the Rambone pilot that I need to build a stand for. It will be used to fire my small electric -> gas conversion kiln. Anybody have any pictures of something they have done or seen so I can get some ideas? Kevin
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