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About Richsound

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  1. Thanks for the explanation, makes perfect sense! For the first run through I didn't have too many materials to put in the kiln so I could simply test as systems & processes. I will take all into heed for the next batch and certainly give it an extra soak at the end. Appreciate your expertise all!
  2. Thanks in advance for the feedback on here! I have now done my 2nd firing with this kiln for my glaze firing. While it was successful in that I learned more about my glazes, got some test tiles/practice pieces through, and understand more about what to expect from the kiln through its controls. It still had a difference in temperature from bottom shelf to top shelf indicated by my pyro-cones. I'm glazing/working with all cone 5 materials. So I set up 4,5,6 cones on the bottom shelf and the #4 was melted perfectly while the 5&6 weren't phased at all. Meanwhile on the top shelf, 4 was melted with no arch, 5 was perfect with a nice arch, and 6 was semi-melted (textbook). I packed the bottom with the tallest pieces and they seemed to have plenty of space around (pictured below), shorter pieces on the 2nd shelf, and the 3rd was just tiles and my cones. All coils seem to functioning. Maybe I should make the bottom chamber even taller?? It's really a small compact little kiln and it seems like it shouldn't have that much of a temp difference. With that said, the pieces on the bottom looked nice but I can't help wondering what a difference it'd make in the integrity of the pot and the look of the glaze if it cooked to the right temp? Any thoughts would be helpful. Also in an attempt to better understand glazing in general and how it reacts at different temps, could someone recommend a gold standard book?
  3. Thanks Stephen! Yes lots of firsts and enjoying stumbling through the processes and figuring it all out! No electronic controller unfortunately as the FX-23p has a kiln sitter, a ramp dial, and a 0-10 wheel. While I don't find the controls very intuitive and have read a lot online about how to use them, I find the process of watching over it and making adjustments through the process valuable. I did find a hack to cheat the kiln-sitter which would allow me to do a hold at peak temp though for my glaze that I may try out. However I'd most likely do a shorter hold time. I've purchased glaze powders that are already measured out that I will be mixing here at home. I've chosen 4 to work with and have 2 clay bodies that I'll test all combinations out on. I'm a sucker iron oxide on stoney looking clays too so should have some interesting combo's. I've went with Aardvark glazes which is sort of local to me... Thanks for the well wishes and thoughts!
  4. This may very well be the case with my bisque temperature difference. I did shorter bowls in the bottom, tall pieces in the middle, and various sizes in the top. Thanks for the tip! I'll test that theory on the next load!
  5. New to the group/forum so this thread contains my first posts. I Just purchased a used Cress FX-23p that's in very good shape. It is my first kiln and first home studio. I did my first bisque load yesterday and all seemed to go well. While I'm bisking at cone 04, I'll be glazing to cone 5 in the coming days. I've been told its not the best idea to go to cone 10 with this kiln, as its been compared to redlining an engine and will wear out an old kiln fairly quickly. Would love to hear feedback or experiences regarding this. With that said, I've chosen a slightly lower cone to work with (5) to work with a lower temp and have many glaze options. Regarding my first bisque load: I placed pyrometric cones 06,05,04 on the top and bottom shelves. The top cone 04 bent to perfection while the bottom cone 04 was a bit underdone. Therefore the kiln is unevenly firing. Seems like a tiny kiln like this wouldn't have too many cold spots. *Also I realize I should have 03, 04, 05 pyrometric cones if I'm firing to 04.
  6. Apparently the "P" model means that there is no vent near the bottom.
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