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Pawelpksa

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About Pawelpksa

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    Advanced Member

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  • Website URL
    http://pksa.nazwa.pl/blog

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  • Location
    Poland
  • Interests
    traditional shaving, photography, pottery

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  1. Any idea how to get the below effect - dragon’s leather? I’ve got fascinated. It is a glazed ceramic bowl. W try to replicate it
  2. @fergusonjeff thanks a lot. I looked info Google photos and understood what expanded metal sheet is. In fact I thought about the same as protection for the fiber ceramic blanket. I plan to put thin layer of clay mixed with grog and vermiculite than the blanket, then extended metal and then again clay mix or special cement for owens. Open question to all. As you can see in my design, there will be a kind of pedestal in the middle. It can be built from hard bricks. I hesitate from this. Seems to be not very economical - will consume heat and is a waste of bricks as such. Would it be enough to fill the pedestal with some isolation material or leave it empty and put on top a regular kiln shelf?
  3. The photo of the kiln with “metal with a thin coating of mortar”
  4. Could you upload some photos?
  5. I have not idea and skils to make the metal shed over the bricks. I plan to put a bit of clay mixed with grog and vermiculite. Then on top of it the ceramic blanket plus some clay to finish. Does it make sense? Thiln itself is well protected from rain with solid roof.
  6. I planned to add next layer of hard bricks, unless you suggest to add ceramic blanket and then what... clay?
  7. 1) The finishing of the arch is done with the hard brick, no doubts about it. What I wanted to consider is different. See on the following photo - each row of bricks in the arch are positioned in the same distance to the nest row at the top ridge with plastic or wooden stick - they are marked in red. I have to take them off and fill the gaps. I consider filling gaps with commercial mortar which will come stiff and high temperature resistant. In case the clay+grog mortar melts, it shoould keep the arch. 2) Regarding cutting the bricks. In the following picture you can see disc and saw that I use. Should I use water when cutting or you think about different types of disc? 3) Before adding additional layer to the arch, should I lay ceramic blanket on the already existing layer or any other type of isolation? Thanks in advance.
  8. I use various diamond discs for concrete and bricks but my bricks are that hard that I barely go for 1 cm deep and then can use rock hammer. You can notice that I used some wood or plastic bars to keep distance between bricks in outer circle. What if I fill the gap (when the distance is taken away) with commercial mortar? Maybe in case the clay mortal melts the commercial one added on top will hold the structure in place?
  9. Here is how it looks like today. The most challenging was to move the stensil into the right position without any help. Also cutting the bricks into wedges to finish the arch is extremely hard. Any comments and guidance to continue? As you could already notice I do faster than thinking (I've got limited time to focus on building) - I made mortar myself. I'm afraid it is a risk factor. I reclaimed clay used for pots (mixture of diffrent clays) and some commercial mortar for owens building plus some grog. I will not know if that mixture takes the heat sufficiently until I try. What will happen if the mortart does not stand the heat? Will it all collapse?
  10. Thanks for all posts. Following your guidance I dismounted what have you seen already. It’s painful process. I will not stand it again. It was tidious work and a long day. could you help me to avoid another mistake? should I use mortar for the floor and for the chimney or not? Proof
  11. Dear, OK, so I'm going to start it again. 1. Should the chimney stand on the cinder blocks base as well? 2. Should I use any special type of cinder to resist the pressure of the entire kiln? I have the following options: - cinder block for walls (8MP, beton and gravelite) - ventilation cinder - cinder block for walls (without gravelite) - gravelite block cinder block for ceilings (terriva) porotherm blocks (ceramic) used for walls
  12. I really appreciate you advice. I progressed so much and now start loosing motivation. It is a painful learning process. Putting that all now on the cinder blocks would mean ... dissembling all. I thought about adding cinder blocks on top of the existing floor and then adding a new floor on top of it. But that would mean that the chimney needs some changes as well. Ahh.. In that case, should the chimney stand on cinder block basis as well? @neilestrick @Mark C. what kind of soft bricks you mean? Following your idea, would it be good to use ceramic panels (25mm, 1260 Celcius) and than 2 layers of hard brick on top?
  13. thanks, it means that I have to make changes to rescue this project.. so the pedestal will be built again regarding the floor - what if I just add ceramic fibre blanket and than additional layer of hard bricks, would it be ok? I wonder if the ceramic fibre blanket (13mm) isn't too soft (it is going to bear some weight). Shouldn't I use some hard ceramic panels?
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