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About Pawelpksa

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    traditional shaving, photography, pottery

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  1. Yes! Next attempts bring me close muuuch more magnesium carbonate than in the recipe thank you for help and expertise
  2. Next attempt and no progress. Unfortunatelly. The "white one" is the original attempt with John's beads. Recently I fired 2: the left one is John's beads 2 with red iron oxide and the right is John's beads. No crowling. Starting from the previous attempt I tried to make the following improvements: added a bit more magnesium carbonate, fired at cone 7, applied veeery thick layer, added transparent glaze on top, and for JB2 I added red iron oxide. The results are even worse than before. Am I doing that all wrong?
  3. Thanks, I apply the glaze very thick comparing to what I do ussualy. But maybe still not enought thick. I will try again. Cracks were visible after drying. If not I will add some more magnesium carbonate... Yes, I use the same materials including FRIT 3134. The only difference might be Kentucky OM #4 Ball Clay what I have is named just Ball Clay.
  4. @Min @akilspots I've tried both John's beads and John's beads 2 (with black stains) with different resluts, both far from satisfactory. Should I add more magnesium carbonate?
  5. Any idea how to get the below effect - dragon’s leather? I’ve got fascinated. It is a glazed ceramic bowl. W try to replicate it
  6. @fergusonjeff thanks a lot. I looked info Google photos and understood what expanded metal sheet is. In fact I thought about the same as protection for the fiber ceramic blanket. I plan to put thin layer of clay mixed with grog and vermiculite than the blanket, then extended metal and then again clay mix or special cement for owens. Open question to all. As you can see in my design, there will be a kind of pedestal in the middle. It can be built from hard bricks. I hesitate from this. Seems to be not very economical - will consume heat and is a waste of bricks as such. Would it be
  7. The photo of the kiln with “metal with a thin coating of mortar”
  8. I have not idea and skils to make the metal shed over the bricks. I plan to put a bit of clay mixed with grog and vermiculite. Then on top of it the ceramic blanket plus some clay to finish. Does it make sense? Thiln itself is well protected from rain with solid roof.
  9. I planned to add next layer of hard bricks, unless you suggest to add ceramic blanket and then what... clay?
  10. 1) The finishing of the arch is done with the hard brick, no doubts about it. What I wanted to consider is different. See on the following photo - each row of bricks in the arch are positioned in the same distance to the nest row at the top ridge with plastic or wooden stick - they are marked in red. I have to take them off and fill the gaps. I consider filling gaps with commercial mortar which will come stiff and high temperature resistant. In case the clay+grog mortar melts, it shoould keep the arch. 2) Regarding cutting the bricks. In the following picture you can see disc and saw that
  11. I use various diamond discs for concrete and bricks but my bricks are that hard that I barely go for 1 cm deep and then can use rock hammer. You can notice that I used some wood or plastic bars to keep distance between bricks in outer circle. What if I fill the gap (when the distance is taken away) with commercial mortar? Maybe in case the clay mortal melts the commercial one added on top will hold the structure in place?
  12. Here is how it looks like today. The most challenging was to move the stensil into the right position without any help. Also cutting the bricks into wedges to finish the arch is extremely hard. Any comments and guidance to continue? As you could already notice I do faster than thinking (I've got limited time to focus on building) - I made mortar myself. I'm afraid it is a risk factor. I reclaimed clay used for pots (mixture of diffrent clays) and some commercial mortar for owens building plus some grog. I will not know if that mixture takes the heat sufficiently
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