SCM by itself is not attractive. The surface will be dry and scratchy.
Yes I use SCM warm and cool on nearly everything I glaze. Spray the SCM first and make it about 30-40% of your total glaze thickness. I have specific gravity set at 1.47 for both the Warm and Cool. Test every glaze you have over SCM. You will be amazed at the color variations with your different glazes over SCM. Any glazes with Strontium Carb in them will react better over SCM. Remember, copper and cobalt containing glazes go over the Cool. Iron glazes over the Warm.
Steven Hill pairs (JJF) Jen's JuicyFruit Warm and Cool with the SCM. After all glazes have been sprayed on your piece, hit the piece with short spray bursts of JJF Warm or Cool depending on the other glazes. I give the banding wheel a spin and no more than two revolutions over the whole piece. Be sparing with the JJF. The JJF will make the surface soft and smooth. I have found without the JJF the surface is scratchy. On your test tiles allow room at the bottom for glaze runs especially if overspraying with JJF. It is not called Juicy for nothing!
Sometimes, I will spray both Warm and Cool on a piece because I want to use a green glaze to accent an otherwise iron red glazed piece. Take a look at my Evolution gallery. You will see examples on some mugs with cool and warm on the same piece.
Use SCM as accents to create different colors from your glazes. You don't have to spray the whole piece with SCM.
The RO8 is Red Orange that I have added 8% more silica. HFAI = Hannah's Fake Ash Iron, C= SCMCool; I = SCMWarm; PSF = Pete's Sea Foam.