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  1. I appreciate it, I'll try that. I never used a body clay with Chamotte and I thought that this is the normal consistency and should be pretty dry. Indeed, I've found in the sealed bag, some water around the clay block which confirm again that the clay was below the storage recommended temperature (5*C) maybe somewhere around 0*C. Thanks
  2. Hey there, I have a situation too. I guess that I bought and received a thawed body clay. Trying to spread a piece of GuS 468 with 40% Chamotte I've realized that the body is cracking when I try to use the slab roller. I've tried to wedge the clay but the result is the same; is this a thawed body clay? what are the signs that confirm this state could you be so kind? Thanks,
  3. hey there @Brittany, I am interested to know, how much grog was in your clay? everything was smooth or the piece was damaged during the firing? @Frederik-W, @Mart 40% grog (0-0.5mm size), 5% firing shrinkage like we have here could be a good solution for building solid pieces? Thanks,
  4. I am interested in combining ceramics with architectural models (I'm not the first, there are plenty of examples) not in deepest details but following a predefined shape. Could be somewhere between architectural-model-deco-art.
  5. Hello there, First, thank you all for your time and support, I've found great tips reading your answers. Indeed, some market clay descriptions confirms that I should start with a clay with grog—like some of you've mentioned above, being use depending of the grog size in building medium/big pieces; could be a proper choice in this case. @Marcia thanks, but I guess that will not be so sharp edge, building / cutting for craving will end up with a wobbling-looking piece. @Dick White, a great ceramic chemistry lesson, I appreciate it! @Min, Giselle I'll do some tests for sure using slipcasting. @Mark, Chilly, wood/ concrete? —that's the challenge, to build these pieces using ceramic or a similar looking/feeling material. @Pres, Magnolia, indeed, as I've mentioned above using a clay with grog sounds good enough. Option 1 Mag, using paperclay also sounds good, and this will fit better for fine detail pieces, I guess. To answer your questions Mag: I think you need a clay body that is solid, but possibly porous, that is dimensionally stable, dries uniformly in a reasonably short time, fires in a reasonably short time. —Very true. Does product need to be fully vitrified? Does it need to fired at all? —It will be preferably to be fired up to 1150-1300*C after the biscuit firing but as far as I can see, grogged clay is low fired (1050-1080*C) at least on some producer pages. Think brick clay instead of tea cup porcelain. —Sounds great! a good alternative, I'll search for that. What about surface treatments? Glaze, stain, paint, color, texture, gloss, etc.? —Texture could be raw or if this will be possible, although I'm not so sure taking in consideration the material consistency, I'll try to use diamond papersand smoothing the surface. Using pieces is not really my intention because I suppose that the gaps will be visible, I am looking for a seamless surface texture. Anyway, now comes the "best part" because the clay market is not so generous here and the shipping price will be 10x the product price. Hope to find some materials. PS: I am out of likes until next day, All the answers will receive one because are good enough for me, thanks again.
  6. Indeed may b, but In this scenario I prefer to create them in solid blocks.
  7. We can have in mind the above example in the architectural geometric shapes area. Some will need details and perhaps will be not possible to be obtained using just the cutting clay technique; that's why may b necessarily to be made using a kind of material somewhere between a slip and clay consistency I suppose ...poured into shapes. I am looking for the right solution. Thank you,
  8. Thank you for your feed-back. 3.5 sq it means 3.5" side cube ? sorry I am from EU not so familiar with the US units. How much in days do you dry the pieces before you fire them, could you be so kind?
  9. Hey there, As I've mentioned above, I am interested to know your point of view regarding the best approach to obtain solid ceramic blocks. The final piece let's suppose that will be a cube with 4.5 inches side length. My concern is related to the fact that being solid and not enough dry, will explode in kiln. As far as I've read, the possibilities are: 1. - To cut directly the clay forming a cubic shape, let it dry enough and fired (a good enough method if we don't have custom shapes which will guide me to the method 2) 2. - Building a polystyrene extruded model, making a mold and pouring/pressing in it a well moist clay (clay + water, I'll have to find the right proportion), let it dry, fired. 3. - idem as above but using slip instead of well moist clay, pouring in cast, let it dry, fired. Any thoughts? Thanks,
  10. Good to know, thanks again. On the author's page, section Moment I've found this picture; on the right side there is a 3 piece mold(?) but there is something more and here maybe you can help, that plastic box with red rubber(?) round side Loofen logo on it Look, nobody wants to copy, I am curious about the technique.
  11. Thank you, Indeed, one thing is for sure, we are talking about high level skills.
  12. Hey there, I've found these projects and I know only a few things, we are talking about ceramics white porcelain, glaze and slipcasting. Any thoughts about the way these shapes are made? I doubt that these are build in one piece, I suppose that these are joined after the first fire session (?) or... Example 1 Example 2 How about this one, could be made using a shape like this to create a plaster mold? What kind of porcelain will fit best these requirements liquid in molds or clay? Thanks
  13. That's good to know. Thank you, How about vitreous, should be always wedged like porcelain? (not vitreous china which as far as I've read, is a glazing technique that is added to porcelain).
  14. Wow, thank you all for your time and answers
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