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About MartinB

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  1. So after all of that i don't need an extractor fan on it, it works on convection. The nabertherm manual was really clear in explaining it and Rohde just emailed to say that style of kiln doesn't need one. I wish their manual had been a bit clearer. Thanks for all your help!
  2. Thanks Bill, that diagram is the same style of venting my kiln has and really helped clear things up in my head. I hadn't considered that the extractor fan isn't directly sucking through the kiln but is drawing air over the bung hole, so a higher flow rate would be needed. I've emailed rohde and am waiting their response, I wish their manual was as detailed as that!
  3. Thanks for the info, I'll get in contact with rohde for more details on the power of the extractor, the one I have is waaay to strong. The adaptor is an open tube that sits over the top bung hole so draws air from the room over the hole, and there's a little vent hole on the bottom of the kiln that can be opened and closed. Annoyingly the vent adaptor that came with the kiln is the wrong size, I never bothered to check it when the kiln was delivered.
  4. I actually just found some documentation for Skutt's kiln venting system which runs at 140CFM which translates to 66 litres a second, and thats for use with kilns much larger than mine, so my extractor fan is way too powerful it seems.
  5. Hi there, I'm looking to vent my kiln and had a question on the amount of airflow. I have a Rohde EcoTop 60 litre which has a vent attachment. I also have a 6" extractor fan in the studio which I was just using to dump heat outside. At its lowest setting it shifts 400 cubic meters per hour or 111 litres per second. If I attach this directly to the kiln vent is it going to be pulling too much air and make the kiln struggle to reach temp? I can't really find much information on this.... Thanks for any help Martin
  6. Ooooo.... Thats rather nice! The patterning on the flat I take it was some slip decoration or something? I love how it breaks to blue.
  7. I'll ship you my copy for the bargain price of £150 EDIT: On a side note for that book, there's some useful general information in it, then a reasonable amount of recipes for bright coloured 'clean' contemporary glazes covering low, mid and high fire. If you're more interested in the technical side of it I'd say the John Britt book is more comprehensive, covering glaze testing, firing cycles, loads more recipes, more traditional glaze styles and special effects (tea dust, celadon, tenmoku, oribe etc) If I was to pick one I'd definitely go with John Britt book.
  8. Not to be a downer but it might be a little optimistic to make a glaze from scratch and have it come out as you expected without lots of experimenting, and for it to be strong, safe and not craze down the line. Especially if its going to be used in a cafe, man handled, washed multiple times per day with harsh cleaning products, put in a dishwasher and microwave etc. I'd also be MUCH more concerned that you were going to use lead in a glaze than a bit of copper oxide or chromium, or that the base you picked is for a low/mid firing temp range when you're talking about high firing. If you ar
  9. Yeah I don't really trust a clay body that's listed as cone 6-10... I know there's a few mid fire cone 6 porcelains in the US but I can't find any in the UK so its cone 10 for me.
  10. Some more info on clays/shrinkage and absorption https://www.ceramicindustry.com/articles/84673-ppp-clay-body-shrinkage-absorption https://digitalfire.com/4sight/glossary/glossary_functional.html
  11. Around 1000dec C (cone 06) is a common bisque temp for mid (cone6/7) and high fire work(cone9/10), you might go a bit higher or bit lower for various reasons but consistency is more important so just aim for 1000 to start with. Then find a clay body you are happy with that matures at the temp you've decided to work at. Most places do 1kg sample packs, order a few in and try throwing/building with them and fire them. Stoneware and Porcelain should not be absorbing water, or very little, if they are fully matured and vitrified.
  12. Is the porcelain you are using a cone 05 porcelain? Most porcelains are cone 6-10 (1200c - 1300c), cone 05 is 1046c so you are likely a long long way off your body being vitrified. If you are using 04/05 glazes you need a body that is made for 04/05 temps...
  13. What Min said, try glazing with only one glaze on both the inside and out, it might be that the glaze is not that compatible with your body. It could also be that you have different amounts of glaze on the inside vs the outside depending on which you dipped first. The body absorbs some water with the first one, then the second application doesn't draw as much water so you end up with a thinner coating. You could make sure the body is completely dry after the first dip, or give the second dip more time to build up a thicker coating. Depends on the thickness of your body, what temp you bisq
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