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About AVPottery

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Des Moines, IA
  • Interests
    Pottery, Wood Turning, Video Games, Leather Working
  1. Well laughably I got the "potters guide to raw glazing and oil firing" book. The author actually did not make his own fire brick or fire his own. Instead he bought firebrick and made dirt bricks for external insulation. It was a good read but disappointing that the fire bricks were still commercially purchased.
  2. The other issue is that your kiln will never get up to temp if its not getting enough power. If it blows the breaker its never going to pull the amperage that its rated for.
  3. I have added a formula that I pulled for a K-26 firebrick. I was not able to reverse engineer it so far. I figure I would share this in case any of you gurus know how to create a recipe from this. Im going to keep trying myself and see what I can come up with. From what I can tell it looks like this is still mostly fireclay and silica. Thanks for any help! Chemical Analysis, % Alumina, Al 2O3 - 48 Silica, SiO2 - 37.5 Ferric oxide, Fe2O3 - 0.3 Titanium oxide, TiO2 - 1.2 Calcium oxide, CaO - 13 Magnesium oxide, MgO - 0.1 Alkalies, as Na2O and K2O - 0.3 http://www.morganthermalceramics.com/sites/default/files/datasheets/6_1-14-2hightempifb.pdf
  4. Took your advice and have the book on the way. Cant wait!
  5. I love being a DIY'er and looking for a firebrick recipe that could compare to K-26 IFB, so I can fire to cone 10 in it. None of the local brick companies sell IFB so this seems like a way to go. Im not really interested in feedback whether I should or not. Just a recipe will do, preferably from someone who has made and fired the brick and experience with the results. Thanks,
  6. Okay, so I am making some progress in understanding the issue. I found out that the infinite switch works like it should but the caveat is that it only controls the top elements. The part I consider dumb is that the manual override switch controls the lower elements. The dumb design choice here is that they are on a 60 second cycle timer when using either "manual low" which will cycle forever and automatic which will cycle for 2 hours and then fire all the way. Their is also a "manual high" but im unclear if that means its just always on or if it just stays off and allows me to use the infinite switch for the top elements. I hope that's the case but i have to test this later. Even on manual low with just the bottom elements firing every 60 seconds that was enough heat to fire from 300f to 1000f in about an hour and a half. This seems crazy that its the lowest setting available to me. I have no idea how I am going to bisque pots when this thing appears to be a flamethrower. I might have to prop the lid but that seem like such a waste of electricity.
  7. Im not clear on the model but based on temp it sounds like this is a glass kiln and not a ceramics kiln. 2000f is just shy of cone 04. You could probably get away with bisquing but thats about it. But with that said, Duncan sells some low fire glazes for cone 04-06. Their are some special clay bodies that mature at that low temp. Amaco and Laguna sell cone 06 clay. I dont think the clay will be good for much other than decoration. It will likely not be a very durable ware. Hope that helps.
  8. I just inherited an old Duncan Kiln DA820 "Automatic Teacher Plus". I have it wired up and doing my first trials with the controls to get it firing. I have gone through the manuals and cant figure out whats wrong. None of the manuals address a kiln that is firing to fast. I have attached a picture which shows that the infinity switch is set to off (which might be the problem) and the lower switch is set to automatic. My understanding is that automatic has a 2 hour soak but it appears that even with it off, something is still firing. I reached 550f in about a half hour which in my opinion might be a little to fast and indicates something is wrong. hoping that someone out their has some experience with these kilns.
  9. Those are great, Im of the younger generation that isnt butt hurt by these things. Ill have to look into some ways to make those. They look fun.
  10. Did you have success with your "open house". Trying to figure out if its worthwhile.
  11. I cant really do the studio sale thing or market it that way. My studio is a pottery wheel in my basement next to my couch and TV. I just don't have a public friendly space to market in that way. I need to be able to just put up a pop-up tent, and treat it like a booth. I also live in a fairly dense residential neighbor hood so the only outside space is really going to be my driveway. And also considering i'm new to pottery their are a lot of pieces i would like to get rid of so i can make space / have money to make more!
  12. 3 That's great to hear. I don't intend to do much discounting and certainly plan to market it as an art sale. I hope you have some luck if you do it again.
  13. Curious if anyone has ever tried doing something like a garage sale / art sale for selling pieces. I figure I'm at home on weekends and I live just off a busy vein in my city. I figure people sell junk all the time at garage sales and why not try to sell my handmade art wares. No booth fees. Put an ad in craigslist, put out a sandwich board and good to go. Just curious if anyone has tried this and found success.
  14. Thats an interesting read, that is definitely what im trying to get at.
  15. I think I should have left Amaco out of this. Im not asking about Amaco's marketing or how to layer glazes. I asking about the chemical properties of the glazes. In the case of Amaco they are two very different glazes that manage to keep their own independent properties while blending to create new ones. It might make more sense if I were to see the glaze recipes that they have. I know that when I mix two of my cone 10 glazes they do not mix/melt together the same way as those Amaco glazes. Are they perhaps heavier in Frits? Do they possibly use Different flux chemicals that cone 10 glazes might not use. What is it about those glazes that might be chemically different? Those are the questions I would like to get to.
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