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About clayshapespottery

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  1. Thanks JohnnyK - I just use ordinary artists acrylic paints from the art supply shops (and even the dollar store) - there's a wide variety of colors and finishes available. They take a couple hours to dry, and I put a protective coat of varathane or sometimes just modgepodge on when they are dry. It's all about the layering with this kind of work - a lot of painting on, wiping off, and layering some more until I get an effect I like. Only problem is you can never repeat it - it's different every time! The ones in the picture are about 3 years old - no fading or flaking yet!
  2. Thanks Chris and Neil - I knew this, logically, but was hoping I was wrong!!
  3. I create decorative pods that I paint with acrylic paints after they are high fired (cone 6) - so I fire them unglazed. Can they touch in the cone 6 firing (I'm using cone 6 porcelain - Tuckers Bright White) I'm pretty certain this is a stupid question, but am humbly asking, anyway!
  4. Yes, I don't think the drywall would be strong enough for wedging - at the moment I wedge on a piece of MDF on top of my work table, which I find to be a very good work surface as well, for rolling out slabs. Only mentioning the drywall as I saw it on a studio table a while back...and was wondering if anyone else used it. I would think it would crack under the repeated pressure of a rolling pin...just wondering others experience.
  5. I've never heard of Hardie board - is it a cement, rather than plaster board?
  6. I'm building a new studio and will be getting new work tables - I visited a studio once where the work tabletop looked like it was a sheet of drywall, inset in a wood frame. Seems like a good idea - for absorbing some moisture. Just wondering if it might degrade easily with wear and tear. I do slab work exclusively. Thoughts? Favorite work surface? (for rolling and forming clay - not glazing).
  7. Great advice Irene! Of course I would not use low fire clay to fill porcelain orders - but you are correct that I want to experiment and have fun this summer. Really looking forward to trying some new clays and ideas - and maybe even raku!
  8. Stephen - I have no idea since I haven't done any firing yet, but power is expensive where my cottage is - double what it costs for power in the city. Wear and tear on elements is another concern - actually, the biggest concern. Low fire is much easier on elements
  9. thanks everyone - lots of good advice here and in the end, you are all probably right that I shouldn't worry too much about the extra cost of firing with cone 6. My original plan was just to bisque at this satellite studio, so I could transport the pieces home with less chance of breakage...but I know that I won't be able to wait until I go home! I'll want to glaze fire out in the country too. And yes - Neil - the element wear and tear is a major concern too - as out in the country replacing things like that is a pain. But I have bought some of this low fire clay and will test it here in the city first. Am definitely thinking about getting set up for raku too, out at the cottage - can't do it in the city. Looking forward to playing with new clays. I got a speckle stoneware today too, which I've never used - it's definitely going to be fun to try new things.
  10. Thank Neil. There are earthenware clays now that are more functional, and sturdier than they used to be - as in good glaze fit (as you say) and even dishwasher safe. I was at Tuckers this morning, and discussed it with them and feel confident their clay is a good fit with the commercial glazes I use for low fire work (Spectrum, and Tuckers own glazes) - to avoid what you are describing. I'm going to test this new clay, that I haven't used before. BTW - years ago when I did my first pottery course, I used a low fire clay in the class to make a set of small plates, and glazed them with the Spectrum glazes provided in the class. I still use these plates almost every day at my house - and always put them in the dishwasher. Nothing wrong with them at all. Good glaze fit, no crazing, and sturdy as can be. I guess I'm answering my own question.
  11. I'm thinking of switching from the cone 6 porcelain I use, to a lower fire clay for the summer as I'll be working at a satellite studio at my cottage where electricity is extremely expensive. I'm in Toronto - and am thinking of using one of Tuckers more sturdy low fire clays, (a red one) which the notes say is just as functional as stoneware. What are people's thoughts about "functional" low fire clay? I don't have access to as wide a range of clays as many US potters do - but we have a pretty good selection from two different suppliers here. I'd love to know general experience with functional low fire clays, and of course, any advice from someone local to the Toronto area who has used locally available clays, would be appreciated.
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