Jump to content

Saki

Members
  • Content Count

    67
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Saki

  1. Ah, that makes sense. Thanks. By any chance, do you have any suggestions on the power/CFM necessary?
  2. Hi, I want to build a spray booth in my basement studio. The design I have in mind would have a spray area 36" x 36" x 36" max, with a filter at the back and a fan behind the filter. The fan would then connect to an exhaust hose and vent outside through a basement window directly above and behind the booth. I have some questions about the fan: (1) What is the best type of fan for this setup? (I was thinking of an inline duct fan?) (2) What is the minimum CPM I should look for in the fan, especially if the air passes from the fan, through an exhaust duct, then outside? (3) As an alternative, I am considering a "waterfall" style booth, where water flows down the back and sides of the booth in lieu of a filter. In this case, where would be the best place to locate the fan — underneath the work area? Also, in a waterfall style booth, does the fan still need to vent outside? Any suggestions or feedback would be great. Thanks.
  3. I have taken classes at the Clay Studio in Philadelphia, which has Brent B and Brent C wheels. They have literally thousands of people come through the studio every semester, and the wheels keep ticking. Do you mean you recommend against the Whisper there is something about the motor that makes it less suitable for production use? and, if so, what is the issue? (this is an honest question.)
  4. If this is your first purchase, may I recommend looking into a used wheel? If you are not sure what you need, this would be a good way to get your feet wet and figure out what features are important to you (e.g., if you aren't throwing huge pots, you probably don't need a lot of wheel that can center 225 lbs). I bought a slightly used brent wheel that I found on craigslist for less than half the price of a new wheel. It works so well that I don't foresee an upgrade any time in the near future. (although I do covet the shimpo whisper wheel—it is so quiet!)
  5. Hi, I have a related question. I can see how throwing round plates is faster and easier than slab building. But if I want to make a large, rectangular or oblong platter (e.g., a 9" x 21" fish platter), would it be easier to do that using a hump mold or a slump mold? My initial guess is that a hump mold might be easier because you can let it dry on the mold and gravity will help the curved sides keep their shape. However, I've never used either a slump or a hump mold before, so I might be missing something.
  6. Hi Curt, My concern was less the machine than the plumbing pipes. Even if the clay doesn't clog the machine, isn't the water expelled into the pipes where it could settle and cause a clog? Thanks, s
  7. Thanks, everyone, for the helpful suggestions! I will try drying and then rinsing in a bucket before washing. oldlady, I will always admire neat potters and strive to emulate them, but realistically I don't think it's in my nature to become a person who can throw pots all day without making some kind of mess!
  8. I have a trap in my studio sink to prevent clay from clogging the plumbing, but nothing at the washing machine. Should I be concerned that washing clothes splattered with clay will clog the pipes or cause other plumbing issues? If so, is there anything I can do — other than becoming a neater potter who doesn't wipe his hands on his pants — to prevent this? Thanks
  9. I posted a similar question a while back and got a lot of good information: How To Create Thicken Slip For High-Relief Surface Decoration? I hope this helps.
  10. Thank you both. I had misunderstood that greater plasticity would make it /easier/ to throw, and that the main trade-off would be increased shrinkage and warping. But it sounds like you find it less workable for throwing. If that's the case, I think I may want to look for another supplier of the 365, even if it means traveling a bit farther.
  11. Hi, it's been a couple months since I posted this, so I just wanted to check back to see if anyone familiar with these clays might be able to respond. Thanks!
  12. Hmm, I am intrigued by popularity of digital scales. I had learned that they weren't as accurate as mechanical scales (which are accurate to 0.1g). But I guess that is not so anymore? I ask because I am still testing glazes, so with small batches I feel more comfortable with the extra precision. Also, can digital scales be calibrated like a mechanical scale?
  13. Ah, I see. That does sound useful. 10,000g batches are beyond me. I'm still learning about glaze chemistry and mostly doing glaze tests right now. Maybe one day I will get up to that quantity! Thanks again
  14. Thanks, Neil. I thought they come with a little knob underneath the pan for taring. Is the tare bar different? Also, I thought digital scales weren't as accurate. Is there one you recommend?
  15. Thanks, Nerd! I hadn't thought of that.
  16. Thank you both! Is there a particular model you recommend? I went to the Ohaus website, but was a little confused by the bells and whistles. Marcia, I'm so sorry someone stole your scale!
  17. Hi, I am in the market for a triple-beam balance to measure glaze chemicals. For those who use triple-beams, do you have any recommendations? Are there any features that I should definitely look for? I have seen some advertised with a "tare bar", but the balances I remember from school had a screw underneath the pan to tare the balance to zero, so I'm not sure how the"tare bar" works or what advantage it provides. Thanks!
  18. Regarding the 50# 325 mesh silica— is there a big difference between 325 mesh and 200 mesh? I've only used 200 mesh, which is a little cheaper.
  19. Also, if I have trimming scraps from the 365, can I reprocess them with the scraps from the 551 while I transition from one clay body to the other?
  20. I have been using Standard Ceramic Supply Company 365 English Porcelain, primarily for throwing. My local supplier recently ran out and started carrying Standard's 551 V.P. (very plastic) Porcelain instead. If anyone has experience with both, I would love to know what differences you noticed and which you preferred. Thanks!
  21. Thanks mugmkr. This definitely a great starting point, and the small batch size will make it easier to experiment with. Enjoy the snow—it sound beautiful!
  22. Thanks everyone. I'm relieved to learn this isn't harmful. Chilly, I think that's consistent with my experience, too. I didn't notice this in the summer, only after the weather started to get wet. Nerd, Sounds like a delicious recipe
  23. I have been using a plaster wedging board made from #1 pottery plaster for about 6 months with no problem. Recently, I started noticing white, fluffy salt deposits on the surface. Some photos are attached. It seems to be worse after I reprocess a batch of clay from slip. (By reprocess, I mean recycle dry clay trimmings by adding water to them, forming a chunky slip, and then scooping the slip onto the plaster, where it dries into plastic clay that is workable for throwing again.) Since this only started happening recently, I suspect it is not "primary" efflorescence from calcium deposits in the plaster board, but rather "secondary" efflorescence from calcium that has dissolved into the water in the slip. From what I understand, the salts are left behind on the surface when the water that has been absorbed by the plaster evaporates into the air. I am using Standard Ceramic 365 English Porcelain for Cone 6. I have been wiping the surface of the plaster clean with a dry brush and shammy, but I am concerned the efflorescence may be damaging the wedging board. I am also concerned that it may have an effect on clay that I re-wedge there. Are these valid concerns? If so, are there any remedial steps I should take to minimize the damage? Thank you.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.