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Everything posted by carolross

  1. That's great news What clear are you using, and to what cone do you fire?
  2. @Roberta12 Thanks for the tips! I've always liked Amaco's colors much more than Mayco's. I was using Amaco when I started having glaze problems and called Amaco. They couldn't help and my supplier suggested Mayco. He loves it, probably for considerations other than the color! My studio is inside my home, in an extra bedroom so I can't spray glaze. Since I brush it, I take a lot of time to smooth over it with my fingers, eliminating pinholes. I've seen a nice demo on bisque, with wax and glazes. Might try that. if I try once-firing, i will check with @oldlady, thanks! Thanks, Roberta, I appreciate your help!
  3. Thanks, @oldlady. I try not to apply underglaze to hard leather hard surfaces, but know that some potters do so on bone dry clay. I don't understand why or how that works so well, but the work is lovely. The colors aren't as vibrant as I prefer, but the work appears pristine!
  4. Thank you, everyone! There's so much to know, so many possibilities to explore and so many ideas and opinions. I've found that clay people, almost without exception, have been incredibly generous over the 20+ years I've been making. It's one of the things about working with clay that always surprises and delights me. And that wealth of info can be befuddling and overwhelming! Okay, what I see is that some underglaze colors, like red and black, bubble. But I do generally apply them more thickly than absolutely necessary, I think, because they are so lovely when they're opaque. So... hopefully, lesson learned - they don't need to be that thick. I'm going to test, as Min suggested, by increasing the thickness of the glaze first. Then by the number of coats of the underglaze. I've also noticed that I get hardly any bubbling when I use satin matte glaze... I'm wondering if I can do this in a test kiln (isn't this what it's for?) or will I have trouble with outgassing because the small kiln fires off so quickly? I've also wondered about using slips with mason stains instead of commercial underglaze. I haven't worked with slip - is it necessary to add flux, which is what I learned to do in college? If so, which fluxes will adhere without bubbling (or overfluxing?) My studio space is within my home, so I try not to do any mixing. That said I have a couple of options. One is that I have a patio which would be great in good weather. Second a local supplier who will mix ingredients for me; it won't be less expensive that way but at least I might have better luck! I've also seen sgraffito done using glaze on nearly-dry greenware. Can it then be once-fired without great risk? It would limit sgraffito work to the exterior of vessels and to non-functional pieces because the carving would leave bare clay exposed. Thanks again for your suggestions! I hope you'll answer these additional questions!
  5. hmmm, okay, but the area feels bumpy and ridged? So, if those are pinholes, what can I do differently? Thanks!
  6. Neil, I'll stop rinsing. I was concerned there might be dust but since I glaze almost as soon as it comes out of the bisque, i didn't think that's an issue. I try to keep the underglaze thinned with water, because it gets pretty thick when the lid is kept off. But the black was pretty thick, I think, when I used it. I've had problems with it not covering well, so I use somewhere between 3-5 coats depending on the coverage. If it's thick when applied, would that be a problem? I've seen people apply it when it's really goopy and thick (yogurt); others who like it thin, almost dripping off the brush (skim milk). Thanks, Neil, I want to get this resolved.
  7. No, I put the underglaze on greenware and then bisque. I was having problems with Amaco underglazes and switched to Mayco, but seem to be having similar problems. I do sgraffito and Mishima, but rinse after the bisque & before I brush on glaze. Thanks!
  8. Hello everyone, I've been having glaze (or underglaze?) problems and thought I had it figured it out - but the last firing says I haven't. I had to transition from a large home studio to a small bedroom studio, when I downsized from a house to a condo. I handbuild in this bedroom studio and it's been working pretty well. Firing seems to be the problematic side of the arrangement. I have a 110V test kiln in this studio that I've been using to bisque fire - open window, lots of fans, air cleaner running - and yup, I know it's far from ideal. I have my larger kiln in a friends' studio and I usually take the bisqued pieces over there to glaze fire. And I've been getting bubbles, bumps and holes after the glaze firing and think that the clay was not properly outgassing in the test kiln. So I started using the larger kiln for both firings. I used ^5-6 Laguna stoneware, Mayco underglaze and Mayco clear, glossy glaze. I bisque'd to ^04 (according to commercial glaze directions) at SLOW speed. Then, I rinsed the pieces under running water, brushed on 2-3 coats of glaze and smoothed over irregularities with my finger. I fired to ^6 at MEDIUM speed. Some pieces came out okay - a few tiny bumps usually in clusters - but not as awful as like before. BUT, some of the pieces had bumps everywhere. I'm attaching 2 photos of 2 plates, underglazed and glazed exactly alike. Please help me figure out what's going on!! Thank you!
  9. Thanks, again... As much as I hate to admit it, these mugs need to be redone! I’m glad you helped me see that.
  10. Thank you, Min. I did sand it, but it's not just on the surface. So, could I use my clay body mixed with frit, in a thick application to try to cover? I've done hours of work on these and hate to start over if there might be a fix...
  11. I had a problem with a ^04 bisque fire yesterday and need some help, please. I used a "magic" recipe ( dry clay, vinegar & toilet paper) to build up a couple of greenware areas after sgraffito; I've done this before with good results. The most recent bisque'd pieces have some darker areas now where I did repairs on bare clay and I'm guessing the slip got contaminated during the process. I'd like to cover the dark areas with a slip or engobe of the same clay body for glazing, in hopes I can hide these areas. I thought that if I used my clay body for this, it might not be a good fit on the bisque clay, so I calcined a bit of dry clay-body powder, planning on using this. Does this make sense to anyone?? I thought I'd add water and a frit, as I would for a slip - should I use the calcined powder, or just some bit of dry clay body that hasn't been fired? Thanks for your help!
  12. Underglazes contain flux. They flux at different temperatures, depending on the color of the underglaze, so I avoid putting underglaze on any area that will be touching the kiln shelf (or touching any other part of the piece, like the flange of a lid) - it will probably stick, When I make a bowl without a foot ring, I leave a circle on the bottom where it will touch the shelf. For the glaze firing, I wax that same circle and clean off any glaze that might end up there. If you’ve already applied underglaze to that area, you can use one or more kiln stilts to support the bowl and keep it off of the shelf. Hope this helps - good luck!
  13. The work is wonderful! Yay! I'd suggest that you take a look at Amaco's website because they have samples of how the glazes will look, before and after firing. So do most other commercial glaze makers. The two you've chosen probably will be perfect. But, beware! There's nothing that's fool-proof about ceramics! Good luck and have fun!
  14. I've had the same problem and still do sometimes. The bubbles on my work looked just like yours. Although there were suggestions about needing a longer bisque for outgassing, I did 12 hr bisques (elec) and that didn't help. Certain underglaze colors produced the bubbles more consistently than others. I spoke with a chemist at Amaco who couldn't resolve it for me. What finally made a difference for me was changing the commercial underglazes and glaze I use, from Amaco to Mayco. Perhaps an incompatibility with the clay I use? I don't know if that info will help...
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