Jo-Ann

Flowerdry, haha! I'm sure he spent closer to thousands! It's such an endearing story tho.

Fallon, those are great thanks for sharing! Jolie, thanks for sharing the process I might give it a try one day.

Sorry to hear you had a bad experience. I don't think names matter if somone is nasty it's usually more about who they are than it is about us. I'm on the shy side, I read often but rarely post unless I feel I can contribute something different than what's already been posted. This is my personality and no one here has ever made me feel bad about that. Honestly I feel like what's happened to you was an unfortunate turn of events and I'm glad you haven't allowed it to keep you away. I hope in time your wife too will see that and come back as well. I've learned a lot from reading what others have shared so I'm greatful there are less shy people here who do share and that has nothing to do with how they identify them self.

I know somone who went to a craft show, saw a $25 mug and didn't want to pay it so he took lessons thinking he could make one cheaper. LOL he loved the process so much that ten years and many mugs later he is still throwing clay. I hope you take the class anyway you might find a new passion and in time learn to make your own bonsai pot

I have home studio in the basement as well About the canvas, when I use mine for rolling I put it in a bucket with water, bring it up and outside for a scrubbing, leave it to dry then shake shake fold and bring it down stairs. I do the same with all my towels and cloth's and sponges. Pre washing your things before putting them in the washing machine is a good idea for your houses pipes. I have canvas on my wedge table I sponge it before and after each use Also, I damp sponge or spray my wheel, counter tops and wipe the floors before and clean thoroughly after each studio time. I didn't used to do the before wipe down but I noticed a film that had dried from previous use and worried about dust. It's kind of a pain but worth the extra time. Nothing more to add to all the other great advice. Unless you want to talk kiln and glaze safety?

sorry its take so long, I'm retiring from my government job this week so things have been crazy! Anyway, as promised here is an example of how small the warping is when my bowls do warp. Its rarely worse than this.

WOW ... those bowls are simply stunning Jo-Ann. I see you also take a generous amount away (cut/carve out) as I do. Do you have many that slump/warp after firing? What's the top temperature you fire these babies to in your glaze firing? They truly are quite beautiful. thank you so much for your kind words on my work my fire schedule is probably overly slow but it seems to be working for me, i have about 2 warped bowls of every 20 the warps aren't as dramatic as when i used to fire quicker. I opened my kill this morning and can show you what a warp looks like after i get a photo. My fire schedules are as fallows Bisque to cone 06 (900 to 1000 degrees celsius I have a manual kiln and no temp gauge so its not exact, I trust in the cone lol) - 3 hours all switches on low, all peeps open, lid propped open - 1 hour all switches on medium, all peeps open, lid propped open - 2 hours all switches on medium, all peeps in except the top two, lid closed - until sitter shuts off (usually about 2-3 hours) all switches on high, all peeps in, lid closed I allow 20 hours too cool before opening, keeping my down draft vent running and removing all peeps around the half way point Glaze fire to cone 6 (1200 to 1300 degrees celsius) - 2 hours all switches on low setting, all peeps open, lid propped open - 3 hours all switches on low, all peeps in except the top two, lid closed - 3 hours all switches on medium, all peeps in except the top two, lid closed - 2 hour all switches on medium, all peeps in, lid closed - until sitter shuts off (usually about 2 hours) all switches on high, all peeps in, lid closed I allow 24 hours too cool before opening, keeping my down draft vent running and removing all peeps around the half way point

WOW! What a great post with a lot of helpful information! Thank you!

yes, it has been my experience that the smaller the slit or less curly or wavy the less chance for warping. you want to leave enough space between the hole and the rim tho cause if the loop is too close to the top you create a weak spot and even after a glaze firing can snap off with a good bump.

Yarn bowls are my absolute favourite to make, I enjoy making each one different depending on my mood. I use stonewear clay, throw a little thicker and cut just before leather hard. I wrap the top in plastic and dry upside down. Sometimes I will use paper wedges to support the swirl part if I notice some sagging (the wedges just burn up in the kiln) after I bisque I sand the swirl as I once used a yarn bowl that didn't have a perfectly smooth swirl and it snagged my yarn and really annoyed me while I was knitting lol so now i'm mindful of how smooth the swirl and inner bowl is. I use a small sharp blade and hand carve all of my cuts, which is why I cut just before leather hard, I find that while there is risk of sagging for me its easier to carve when the clay isn't so stiff. Yarn bowls are my biggest seller. I personally don't like, wont use and wont sell a warped bowl but that's just me being picky. Slow drying, a gentle hand when carving and paper wedges for support helps me avoid warping. Here are a bunch of bowls i've made.

I make three sizes, 1.5 to 2 lbs for that tiny sock yarn 2 to 2.5 lbs standard for most other yarn (most purchased size) 3 to 5 lbs for bulk or chunky yarn I'm a knitter and I crochet, for me the most important aspect of a yarn bowl is where the yarn sits and comes out of, if the glaze miss behaves and its not glass smooth it can snag your yarn. I've noticed a surprisingly large yarn ball can fit in a small yarn bowl and still roll out smoothly.

I have left reclaim on my work table to air dry and come back to find the cat hadn't looked before leaping. Paw pints in the reclaim, a trail and splatter on the floor to where he'd leapt and tried to shake it off presumably before cleaning it himself haha This post reminded me of the paw prints found in real Coaluila Mexican tile.

You are the potter, make your mugs the way you like them. If you have been asked to make something in a way that isn't your style you have the creative freedom to decide if you'd like to try experimenting in other ways. My personal preference, I like my mug to have a round belly (for my hands to cup) and to taper in at the top (to keep the liquid from getting cold too fast). I don’t like the mugs I use to have a handle (gets in the way of my hand cupping ) I make mugs both ways.

i have been teaching HS ceramics for 5 years. I am hired as a guest artist for a week or two per semester. I start with teaching the whole class clay "rules" and basics. Then i teach them slab and coil work. I do a demo on the wheel and have the student sign up for wheel time during the weeks i am there, i work with 5 students at a time while the rest of the class work on their slab and coil pieces. the students are asked to submit 3 of their best pieces for grading. grade 9 students must sign up for a wheel experience but do not need to submit a wheel thrown piece. however the grade 11 students do. because i am there for such a short time i stay and work over lunch and spares and invite the grade 11's and the more enthusiastic student to sign up for extra time. These extra time slots fill up very quickly.

Thanks again guy, sounds like wholesale is the way to go? Also, chris, i found some helpful info on your website regarding what to include in the contracts, thank you for sharing that info!

Thank you so much for your input. Its been extreemly helpful!

I've been looking around on line and can't seem to find what % of the sale price you receive when you sell your ware in local shops. Can anyone please give me an idea of what the average might be. It was recently suggested a shop receive 30%. . . I have no idea if that is fair but when i do the math and off set the cost my ware becomes pretty expensive.

Thanks Marcia, Everything was as fine as Min said it would be. I've restarted, this time with the proper cone in the sitter. :/

Thank you Min, that info helps a lot.

I think too much time has passed so my timing would be off . . . ill just retry after it cools thanks anyway.

Oh and I wouldn't put a cone in it I would just go by time . . .

When I push the button down it stays down. Even if the latch isn't up. . . Now you have me wondering, Is that not supposed to happen?

I've had my 6 year old on the wheel and she did wonderfully. My 8 year old did well too. My 4 year old hasn't asked but I would certainly let her try if she showed interest. She mostly just enjoys watching me. I have a lot of experience with kids and what I find to be the best is to present them with two or three options and allow them to chose. It helps for them to have an example even if it is just a picture of what the end result will be and you would guide them on how to get there but let them take their own direction creatively. I always set up my wedged balls ahead of time for them but set one aside to teach them how to. experience has taught me to not use their wedged ball because I have had one explode in the kiln and take other pots out in its path. Another option they might enjoy are personalized garden stepping stones. They can use underglaze to paint on it or even scrafito or slip trailing. You could find leaves, pine cones and branches in the yard to give it texture . . .

Ugh I messed up. Very early this morning I set my kiln up for a glaze fire. I think in my sleepy stupor I accidentally set my kiln sitter up with a 06 cone not cone 6. The reason I think this is because it normally takes 8 to ten hours for my kiln sitter to flick off but when I went to check on it at about 6 hours it was off. I was very confused at first but i am now rethinking my steps and realized what I've done. I can not for the life of me see the cones I set up to monitor so that won't help me What would you more experienced potters recommend I do. Leave it to cool and then set it up again tomorrow or manually reset and put it on high for the last 2 to four hours? Thanks in advance for your guidance.

Oh wow that looks really pretty, I love the combo too, very nice.