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About venetiancat

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  • Birthday 11/14/1959

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    Julia Passamonti-Colamartino

Profile Information

  • Location
    New Hampshire USA
  • Interests
    terra sigillata, hand building, historical reproduction, CLAY and MORE CLAY!
  1. I love all the different responses, and will definitely check out the links. I like going to YouTube, finding my favorite musicians, and making a playlist on my computer. My favorite music genres are classical East Indian music, especially sarangi and tabla, and Renaissance/Baroque music my Jordi Savall and his group Hesperion XXI.
  2. Hi Jeri, I burnish my wares all the time, and I find that it works best using a polished stone when the pots are a "black" leather hard-that is to say, leather hard when the clay is its darkest before it begins to dry out. I use a Giffen grip to hold the pot in place, or simply stick them to the wheel head with a little water, and burnish using the wheel. I fire to cone 04, and the burnish still holds. I also burnish before applying terra sigillata (you can read about terra sigillata here on my website) and then buff the pieces with a chamois. I'm going to try this Kathleen, I LOVE Mata Ortiz pottery, and I hope to study with them someday.
  3. Good luck with the paper clay Cyndi:). Another thing that helps greatly with S-cracks in thrown pieces is when throwing, push the clay along the bottom in towards the middle, out again, and back in. This will align the particles. Best, Julia
  4. Hi Cyndi, I just noticed your post, haven't been on for a while. This happened to me in the beginning too, so I FEEL your PAIN!. What is happening is that the outside walls are drying faster than the inside, and the difference in shrinkage is causing the cracking on the bottom. You want the middle to dry before the outer walls do. Try drying your wares with plastic on the outer walls and rim only,exposing the center/bottom to the air. You sort of make a donut of plastic. Then, once the middle starts to dry, remove the plastic. I found also that drying my pieces on plaster bats or wooden boards (plaster works best for me) rather than wire racks helps a great deal. Hope this helps, let me know how you make out. Julia
  5. Just GORGEOUS work Chris-exquisite! And the yummy colors can't help but to lure me in beautifully.
  6. Hi Kristen, In my experience, people who buy pottery at Farmer's Markets are looking for really cheap stuff, and for me, it has never been a very profitable venue, as the only way I was able to sell pots was to practically give them away. Fortunately, I didn't do it for long. On the other hand, selling them either in a venue where other potters are selling or have sold wares may fetch you better prices, and you can set according to the prices others are selling theirs for. My BEST venue has been online, where I set prices that I am comfortable with. In my case, where my pottery is historical reproduction, I see what originals sell for on different online auctions, and price my pieces for 1/3 to half of what an original in excellent condition would sell for. I also check out other historical reproduction houses, and sometimes use them as a guide, but I have found that it is really important to be comfortable with what you're charging, because believe it or not, you'll sell the items that FEEL the best to you. Good luck!
  7. Did you use paper clay to make this? It's amazing!
  8. I have made rims using an extruder, which makes perfect, even coils. I then score the piece and the rim, apply slip,join taking care to not distort the coil and voila! ... a perfect rim. You can even the join out with a small rubber kidney or wooden tool as you turn your banding wheel. This technique also works great for feet. The Chinese are masters at hand building and getting perfectly symmetrical pots. The key lies in having the right tools to precisely cut your clay prior to assembly. Chinese Clayart has some great handbuilding tools, especially those used for doing Yixing teapots (see Teapot Video) Hope this helps, Julia
  9. There's a whole thread on it here:clayart.org Magic Water from Lana Wilson 1 gallon water 9.5 grams sodium silicate 3 grams soda ash
  10. Anthony, your forms are exquisite, and as i looked at your website, it was a lot of fun to see how your work has evolved to become more subtle and refined. I just LOVE the organic sea forms. I'm glad that you included a description of paper clay, I think I'll try it next time I get a commission for a sculpture, it seems that it really makes life a lot easier! Ann, your sculpture is just beautiful, LOVE the details in the dress, thanks for sharing.
  11. The title of the article made me laugh out loud. I felt while reading the article that the gist of it is that it is important to be critical in a constructive way without taking oneself too seriously. Since I have a tendency to beat myself up, I am careful of the language that I use for self talk when critiquing my own work. And what may "suck" for me may be really beautiful to someone else. I think that the important thing is to FEEL GOOD about one own work rather than to pick it apart, and strive for excellence without beating yourself up for past mistakes. I find ways to think about my own work that feel good rather than hold onto thoughts that feel depressing, and I have noticed that my work is so much better (and I SELL more) when I am in a peaceful, happy state of mind. So rather than tell myself, "Ugh, that pit really sucks, it's so clumsy and heavy looking",(which feels really bad to me) I can say "Well, now that I've made the prototype and worked out the kinks, it will be so much easier next time because of this experience and the next pot's form will flow so much more." or something like that.
  12. is decorating a Greek kylix in the black figure style.

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