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  1. Thanks guys, It was a difficult one to explain- to clarify I have a 3d printed object that looks like a basic vase like the eiffel tower shape (in sillouhette only) with a little bit of wider base. Like an 'A' with a curve. It's 3d printed in a slight rough surface because the polished version is too expensive. It's to make a mould off, NOT to cast off. The casting will be fine, but the moulding ive found is very tight around the shape and with the long 'spire' at the top I fear it will grip it too tight to release. @Joel this is what I'm after but a much longer top part, and a two part horizontal mould, not a vertical one like here. The split would be at the widest 'waist' part of the shape' so it would slip out the bottom, and other half out the top. I will try soft soap again, but I find it does nothing really for my past moulds. Thanks guys!
  2. Hi guys, I have some pieces I want to cast in plaster for a mould. The pieces will not be particularly flexible and I worry they wont release properly. Its a basic vase shape that narrows in at the top like a pair- this taper part is a 6cm diameter x 8cm long pipe that I feel the plaster will grip too tightly to release and slip out. I haven't had much luck with soft soap and I'm wondering could I rub a candle on my piece to give it a shiny and slightly slippery surface for the plaster to cast? I worry it will ruin the porosity of the mould though. Has anyone done such a thing? Other solutions are welcome but I'm mostly wondering if wax will ruin plaster or there are similar products that wont. Cheers!
  3. Thanks for the thoughts- Its actually to sand slip cast pieces. If I buy a few bats or maybe a double decker bat, to tuck the edges of the sandpaper between so I can easily replace, it would save me buying a proper sander. Plus I don't know of any simple flat 'table' sanders anyway.
  4. Hi guys, Has anyone ever used a bat for the pottery wheel covered in sandpaper, to turn it into a circular sander? I would've thought it would ber very very common but I can only find one reference, and its for grinding the bottom of fired pieces, not to sand existing ones. Can anyone foresee any issues with gluing sandpaper to wooden bats, securing them to the wheel and using them to sand pieces? Cheers!
  5. Hi guys, I'm looking for anything that I can add to my porcelain slip (cone 10) that will result in a fine surface texture. This could be fairly uniform almost sandpaper-y, to just varied and rough. Like below: http://www.walkerceramics.com.au/images/Compressed%20images/BRT%201280%20R%20054.jpg http://claymotion.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/brtsample.jpg Not necessarily the colors I"m after, more just the texture, but open to any suggestions. Any thoughts would be great!
  6. I have a whole bunch of masters, as I already have been casting them indidivually for a while but now want to bulk cast many of them. Having 6 individual molds is just to big and unwieldy I've found. The vase has a thinner top so it needs to be a two piece mold (a flat plate of plaster and a 'toilet roll' shape top to lift off and slip the piece out. I think if I have 3 in a row it wont be a big deal, as long as it absorbs properly.
  7. Thanks guys, to clarify theyre similar in size to a coke can but have no underhangs etc, very simple cylinder object to slip out. I think I'm commited to do multi piece moulds- but I may try a 3 piece instead of a 6 piece so I don't have to pour as long and plaster isnt as heavy. Many single moulds just take up too much space and is a lot of handwork. Thanks for the advice!
  8. Hi guys, I am looking to make a multiple piece mould (imagine I'm casting coke can's and want to make a mould that casts 6 of those coke cans at once). It would be a one piece mold, as in one piece of plaster like a brick with 6 holes in it and a 'plate' piece underneath it. Would this cause an issue to cast 6 masters assembled like a grid, in terms of how the water absorbs into the plaster? ie. With two placed next to each other, would the water absorb through and clash with the water being absorbed from its neighbour? Any help would be great! Cheers.
  9. Thanks guys! Good advice, and I will read that article. Yep its porcelain. I will give it extensive testing but have limited time.
  10. Hey guys, Quick question I can't seam to find much information on. I'm slipcasting a shape from a two piece mould and it leaves a seam down the side of my piece. I sand it as greenware then again as bisque before stoneware firing and wondering if seams are just inevitable. It could possibly be a combination of protruding just enough to be visible but also a discoloration effect. I have experimented a little but just wondering if you guys find that seams are just unavoidable or are usually very easy to get rid of. I'm possibly not doing enough to remove them. I'm not glazing the seamed area. Thanks.
  11. Thanks guys! I didn't end up discounting and it felt like the right move. Now to wait and hear what they say.
  12. Hey guys, I have a custom order starting where the client would like 25 units of an existing vessel I have (cup sized pourer), and 25 of a smaller cup to be designed. Both are very minimal, flat slipcast colours, clear glaze. My question is- my existing vessel is $25 each ordinarily and I foresee the cup would be 16-18$ each ordinarily- would normal etiquette be to decrease this price for this larger order and if so by how much? Very newbie question I'm sorry but I'm a little in the dark. Any help would be great. Thanks, J
  13. Hey guys, I have a solid clay with a nice speckly grit to it that I want to cut up, dry out, and make into a slip but I was told theres a risk the heavier particles like grit etc may sink to the bottom when casting. The company also mentioned there may be not a whole lot of clay content in the clay and I would need to add more - but they had never tried it either. Can someone suggest if any of these is a good solution- a ) break down the clay, add water etc to make the slip and use Epsom salts to thicken clay after? b ) combine TWO clays (both stoneware, one with no grit), dry them, break them down and make slip to help suspend the particles? c ) or would just the usual suspend a few drops of Sodium Silicate or Dispex suspend the particles enough? Obviously I'll experiment regardless but any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
  14. Hi guys, Quick questions about porcelain- I'm making some small vessels from slip cast porcelain, and really loving the soft matte look they get after being fired to bisque (1000celsius). Unfortunately when I fire to 1200celsius to finish them they get a rough sandy feel to them (feels like nails on a chalkboard) and lose the subtlely of colors/shrink etc. My main issue is the sandy surface and I'm wondering if there are any issues with selling little planters as bisque? Is this generally frowned upon? The bisque doesnt leak water as such but it kind of bleeds through a little in spots but i could make it thicker. OR- would it be better using another sort of clay that doesnt warp/shrink/and doesnt have that same rough texture? If so can someone recommend any? Plain earthenware? I would ideally like to make foodsafe versions eventually too which requires glaze obviously. Any help would be greatly appreciated, Jack
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