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About KellyRainey

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  • Birthday 04/07/1970

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    Evansville, IN
  1. Good afternoon everyone! Currently I am a hand builder and that is all I have done since I entered ceramics. I really want to do some work on the wheel but I do not really want to and can't invest to much money right now. So I have been looking at a few beginning or rather "training" wheels :-) that I can learn on until or if I can, shall we say, take off the training wheels. In other words, I need something that if I do not get the hang of it or end up not finding it to be my cup of tea I did not invest a lot of money into it. I have been looking at the following Wheels: Speedball Artista Wheel 11" wheel head, 2 part splash pan included, variable speed (hand control), Micro V-belt for smooth, quiet power and long life. Convenient space for two 2.5 quart buckets, Easy to store. Optional legs available - static or foldable. New 5 year warranty! Comes with 2 free bats, and throwing bucket. It also has an optional foot pedal that can be bought separately.<a name="ClayBoss">Speedball Clay Boss Pottery Wheel (formerly Creative Industries Clay Boss) 1/2 HP industrial motor Sturdy steel frame 1/2" thick polyethylene tabletop. (Table Size: 26" x 21") Large 14" diameter wheel head Reversing plug allows quick change of wheel head direction Sophisticated load-sensing control – maintains wheel head speed under varying loads If anyone has better options that are extremely affordable please let me know.. Thank you... Adjustable height feet Centers up to 100 lbs of clay Wheel Head Height 19.5" Five Year Warranty Included are... Free Splash Pan Free "How to Throw" DVD 2 Free bats, Free pair of bat pins
  2. So far, the suggestions and answer you have received are exactly the same as I would have offered. However, I found a few sites online that discuss Once or Single Fire glazing methods. Below is a list of a few of them - I do not know if they will provide you with what you are looking for but I thought I would throw them out there anyway. Additionally, I hope that they will not be sites you have already viewed and that you can maybe learn something new from them. 1. http://westfarmarts.com/ceramics/singlefire.html 2. http://cone6pots.ning.com/page/single-firing-in-the-cone-5-7 at the bottom of this page there are a few glaze recipes that the author of the page states came from Clayart I hope these help a bit... I have also seen single firing referred to green firing, greenware firing, and once fire - just in case you want to try looking up information using these terms as well. Kelly
  3. I use mainly cone 6 and under. However, I bought a kiln that would accommodate me if I chose to use cone 10 later on down the road. As for Kilns I have a Skutt KM1027-3 (3 being 3 inch brick). I love it. I am not a potter, I am a hand builder, that is all my work is either slabs, pinch, coil, etc. It also holds a lot but is not too large that it takes forever to have enough ware to fill it to fire... I also love the The Lid Lifter - came standard on mine but can be added to other 10 & 12 sided Skutt kilns. I swear I can lift the lid with my pinky and given the fact that weigh just over 103 lbs I needed it.... No matter what your choice, all I can say is probably something you will remember from you when you working before - think about your future needs - the last thing one wants to do is buy too small or too low of a cone and find out later on down the road that they produce more than the kiln can handle or that they want to start firing at cone 10... Good Luck. Kelly
  4. Late post: If you had the extra cash, Harbor freight has a workbench (meant for woodworkers) that is made of nice wood, has four drawers underneath the top and a shelf below. If you get it, be sure to glue the connections instead of just screw them. I find it a very nice unit. I put plastic wood in the holes on the top meant for the woodworker's items, then sanded them down. Ironically, I have seen that one a million times and I keep telling my husband that if I had the cash, I would buy it in a heartbeat... But the cash flow always seems to be very short when they actually have it in stock. I live right down the street from a Harbor Freight and I think everyone and their brother buys up the worktables every time they get them back in stock.. :-)
  5. Ikea! I have a Bekvam kitchen trolley which is just brilliant - solid wood, cheap with two shelves underneath and wheels on two of the legs. It's about 20"x24" and a good working height. I have to admit I usually use other surfaces (usually my slab roller) for working on, but tend to work on damp closeweave cotton anyway. ..... ooooh! I didn't expect that to work - this is its picture Christine Ohhhhh That would be a good size... I will have to see if I can order online here in the states. I love Ikea but I do not have one in my area so I can only purchase what they carry online or in the catalog... Thank you for your suggestion and the picture... Pictures always help...
  6. That is a good idea. This would surely come in handy no matter what table I end up building, buying, etc. Did you try to find a smooth plywood or did it matter since you were covered with canvas? Thank you for the suggestion..
  7. working on reorganizing my home studio.

  8. Thank you everyone for your replies and ideas. If anyone has photos of their tables that they would not mind posting so that I can get a visual of what it should look like that would be great. Thank you again Kelly
  9. I am looking for a small work table for a very small studio (I mean very small studio). I do not mind building one but I have no idea where to start. I will using it just for working. I already have a cement board covered in canvas that I can put on the table when I need to wedge but I need something other than it to work on that my clay won't stick to like crazy.. Anyone have instructions, ideas, photos, etc? I would greatly appreciate any help.. Thank you!!! Kelly
  10. My undergraduate major was Studio Arts with a focus on Ceramics. As part of my Materials and Techniques class we had to dig local clay from the ground and turn it into a workable, usable clay. It was a blast. The process was much like the process to reclaim, as the clay we dug up was somewhat moist but not workable. The longest part of the process of course was the drying of the slurry to a workable state: follow your reclaim process until you get to the slurry drying stage then and this is where I varied from many of my classmates, slather the slurry onto layers and layers of newspaper instead of using the plaster slabs/wedging tables. You would be amazed how well it works and there are no worries of plaster getting into the clay. If any newspaper sticks (I never experienced this unless I tried to rush it and take the clay off before it was really ready), it is easily peeled off or will burn off in the kiln (I am a hand builder and talked a potter classmate into trying it and she said that any paper left behind came off while she was throwing). I enjoyed watching over the drying process and it took no longer than other methods (plaster slab, unglazed ceramic bowls, etc). Of course, one might need to add more newspaper if they did not start with enough. ***Two notes: 1. I would not recommend the newspaper method for large quantities if you are short of space in your studio, as the stacks of newspaper could take up valuable space. Of course, if you have any space available outside of your studio you could use that. 2. I use the same collection method as Kabe - I use plastic coffee cans and once I have one or two filled to the brim (lid bulging a little bit) I start the process so that I can conserve on valuable work space. If anyone who has not tried this method for drying before wedging and chooses to test it please let me know who it works out for you. After typing the process out and thinking back on my time in school, I realize it is time for me to go do some reclaiming of my scraps before they become too much to handle (of course, I could break a larger batch into more than one batch . Happy Holidays!!!! Kelly
  11. I have seen some artists put tape over the top of it and then stick the tape to the sides of the cottle/box, etc. You could try that as well. I am told it works well. Note - There are instructions somewhere online (cannot remember where I saw them) for making large round bottom bowls with balloons by pouring the plaster in the cottle/box, etc then quickly stuffing the balloon down into the plaster and then taping the balloon down.
  12. I would take the very first piece I ever made - a round ball rattle. It was my first attempt at ceramics and we started with pinching. The ball turned out so smooth and almost completely round. It is the perfect size to fit in my hand and makes a great sound when shaken. Side note - It serves as a stress reliever so it would come in handy on a deserted island where I would be stressed out about not being able to work in my studio :-).
  13. I do not have any ideas other than those already posted but I did want to thank you for posting because I was wondering how the caulk gun extruder would work. I am glad to hear it works well despite any difficulty putting it together. Now if we could get someone to post instructions on how to make a harp cutter I would love it. PS. I agree with everyone else when they say that wire will work much better than fishing line. :-) Good Luck! Kelly
  14. Thank you everyone. I appreciate all the input and feedback. I have taken note of all your ideas and will be starting on the pan within the week. I guess I was worrying way too much :-). Thanks again!!!! Kelly
  15. Chris, You guessed correctly... I am a sculptor, so for the most part I have not had to worry about shrinkage too much. When I was in school I did learn about the shrinkage ruler and have a few for clay I made while in school (too bad I do not have clay left over from then (2003-2007). Many of the commercial clays I will be working with give me a shrinkage rate so I what I am really in need of is how to calculate the size I would need to create for wood, foam, etc mold so that when the clay shrinks the piece will be the 13x9x2.5 size that I want. Does that make sense? I have actually determined which clay I will be using and it has a 12% shrinkage rate at full maturation (which is what I need to fire at for functional oven ware). So, in other words, I know the mold I start with will need to be bigger than what I want the finished piece to be because of shrinkage but do not know how to calculate what size I need to make the mold to start with at a 12% shrinkage rate. As for using another lasagna pan as a mold wouldn't I need to use a pan that is bigger than what I need in order get a 13x9x2.5? I get that if I use another pan that I have to take it off as soon as it is form because it will shrink and that will make it crack but is there a way to handle the size issue because of shrinkage at full maturation. Yes, I am in fact looking forward to the challenege :-). It is something I have always wanted to do but never really focused on until now. I am told it would be easier for me if I created them on a wheel but as I said in my original post, I do not own a wheel nor do I have access and I have never learned :-( Thank you for your help and "been there, done that advice" :-)! Kelly
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