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  1. I'm wondering if anyone has experience with using shellac or other varnish as a cold finish on a cone 6 body. I'm making some small nonfunctional work that I would ideally love to glaze clear over underglaze, but it's very 3-dimensional and trying to glaze fire it is a nightmare/logistical impossibility. I'm thinking of underglazing, firing, then using shellac but I'm not finding much info on shellac as a cold finish for pottery. I hate the idea of it deteriorating, getting sticky, etc. over the years. Thanks!
  2. Cool! The more you know. Neil -- yeah I'm dumb and I keep thinking it's okay to pay attention to the "range" within which Continental claims things mature, which for B-clay goes down to cone 5...wishful thinking. To solve all my problems, I'll just use the midfire white stoneware I've used for a while, which is also probably not maturing at 6 but at least it's closer. And there's a shrinkage rate chart for it!
  3. Can you do the same magic for a sphere? The cups aren't cylinders
  4. Thanks guys! I think your math is right --a friend of mine who's a physics teacher said something similar. She did actually give me a range and I don't mind the challenge, buuuut she also needs them to be a certain height (to fit in a coffee maker) and this isn't the only thing I have to do with my life right now so....oh well. Live and learn Also would be so great if anyone knows the actual shrinkage for B-clay...
  5. Hello clay gurus, I've been commissioned to make some mugs. She wants them to hold a certain amount, and because I am silly I've never done a shrinkage test for my B-clay. I got it from continental. I don't have time to test before I make the mugs. I have two questions. 1. Does anyone know B-clay shrinkage percent for a. bone dry to cone 06 b. cone 06 to cone 6 2. If the clay shrinks 6% wet to bone dry (which it does), does the mug's capacity also shrink 6%? If it holds 16 oz wet does it hold 15.04 dry? Or am I oversimplifying it? Thank you!!!
  6. I'm only considering trying to save two--they are sculptural pieces I'm fond of that took a bit of time to make. They look kind of okay as is though, so I might just leave them if glazing is not likely to work. I am now confused about what cone my clay is best fired to. It's not a computerized kiln though, I put the wrong cone in the sitter
  7. Pres, This raises an issue I've always been confused about. How do you tell if it's vitrified satisfactorily?
  8. I'm not home so I can't lick it right now put I will put it on my to do list lol. Anyway you are probably right Jim, I'll warm it up before glazing then glaze fire it hotter (with an appropriate glaze of course). Thanks all!
  9. I figured I wasn't. Vitrification occurs at 6-10 but I'm not convinced cone 6 was actually achieved. It looked to me like I may have set the sitter to fall too early. I'm familiar with the clay body and the color suggests that it's pretty well matured but I'm just not sure. I thought something was wrong with the glaze itself until I realized what I'd actually done >:[] Thanks for the tip.
  10. So I'm silly and I bisqued my stoneware at cone 6 instead of cone 06. It was my first firing but I should know better. Anyway, the glaze is obviously not wanting to adhere/dry very well, and I'm wondering if it's a bad idea to glaze fire anyway (how is the glaze most likely to behave?), and if so what my best option is for at least making the pieces look prettier.
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