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Clay Tile Mom

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Everything posted by Clay Tile Mom

  1. Excellent! You all Rock! So glad I thought to post. I knew I could count on you.
  2. I am wondering if anyone has tried using the paint spray guns from harbor freight that run around $16.99. Or is it a you get what you pay for situation and worth the $50 to buy the PH300 glaze sprayer from the ceramic suppliers? Do paint sprayers even work for glaze, or will the just get all clogged up? I make 1" ceramic pendants and hand brush the fronts and backs. two coats on the back and three on the top. I currently have hundreds to do, and I think the time saved by using a spray gun will be the way to go.
  3. thank you so much for being so open and sharing with your information.
  4. just a dusting should be fine. how wet is your clay? if it is so wet that the cornstarch is absorbing, you may need to let your slabs dry between plaster boards for about an hour.
  5. my favorite comment is when a person asks if I sell on line. I usually just direct them to my website where they can purchase a limited selection of work. but I want to say, " as you can see I have all of my work on display for you here, and you won't have to pay any shipping"
  6. I actually do production wheel throwing for another potter. My work is all hand built. I do have a new wheel thrown bowl that I have been making for a customer. But throwing more than 3-4 pounds is difficult for me. I really do not like throwing large on a regular basis. and I do not think that my personal thrown work is very me. I have a hump mold for a 14" square platter and I made one out of the midrange porcelain. I do not want to make it out of earthenware. Mostly because I use commercial earthenware glazes and it will use a pint to glaze one. I know thats a lame excuse. The durability is also a factor. See how I just have all of these excuses. I will make a few more large platters tonight to see how it goes. I do like the idea of 6 mugs on the platter as a set...
  7. I was conflicted as to put this under business and marketing, or making/studio op. It does pertain to making so here I am. I did my first wholesale show last march, and I am gearing up to do my second one this march. I kept my line very basic last year, because I really wanted to see how it went. I did great, and my line was well received. I stamp images onto hand built work. I have a mug line which is mid range porcelain, and an earthenware line of two small trays, and a 11 inch oval platter and small bowl. I also have little pendants. I am currently in a situation where a few people have suggested that I make a large bowl or platter, or a large vase.. One of the suggesters is the person who curates and puts on the gift show. She says I have a gap at the high end of my line. I have prototyped all three of these, and I just don't feel like they are ready design wise for me to release them wholesale. At least, I keep making up excuses and reasons why they just don't fit with the rest of the work. Reason 1: If I am going to do a large platter, I think it should be stoneware like the mugs. This platter will not go with the earthenware platters I already have in my wholesale line. I want it to go with the dinnerware line that I have been designing, but have yet to develop. I could do a platter and pitcher duo in porcelain, but I see it glazed very different from the mugs. Reason 2: I have a few other small items that I would like to bring out with the work this year. A cup and a tumbler to go with the mugs. And a ring dish and medium bowl to go with the earthenware. I am running out of time. Here is my question: Should I bust my butt and bang out the platter(and pitcher) set before I feel like they are really ready. Or stick with just the NEW smaller items and leave a gap in the line at the very top end? I would consider all of the items I currently have in the middle and low price range. you can preview my work at http://jessteesdale.com/portfolio/
  8. I do some production work for another potter who wants their work to be handmade, but can't possibly make it all. I deliver the bisque, and she glazes at her studio. She buys all of the clay, and I help design the work so it is throwing friendly. We work out a cost per piece that fits into her wholesale cost, and I do the piece work. I personally enjoy doing zero of the marketing. I just drop off and get paid COD. BUT...she already has a flourishing wholesale business. Her work is marketed, and she is growing. I also have the benefit of having her as a Mentor for getting my line together. The work landed in my lap at a time when I wasn't working in the studio much, but wanted to get back to it. I didn't have the money to get things going myself. I think there are people out there who may want this type of arrangement. Put an ad in the back of ceramics monthly, or CAD. You might find a good fit.
  9. I am doing my first wholesale show in mid march. I have a line of mugs and some tableware. I create a lot more items than I am putting on my line sheet. My thought is to only offer my most popular items on the line sheet, and then introduce "new" items in the future. I will have items on display in my booth that will not be on the line sheet. (I still want people to see what is available) Do you think that is too confusing for the buyers? Or, do you think they want to see options? A friend told me that people will only buy what is on the line sheet. Do you think that is true?
  10. I had an etsy page, but like most everyone else is saying, it was a lot to maintain. I mostly want a page for the few people who ask me if I sell online. And, I occasionally get custom orders. So, I set up a square market page for myself. It was very easy, and I can direct people to it using my own email list and social media. I find it easier to manage (not as much tagging and verbiage needed for each piece. And, I like the clean modern look. Now when I get a custom order, I just create a listing, then email the link directly to the customer. As soon as they pay, I complete the order. 2.75% for each transaction, and the sales all report with my square card reader sales. no need to work through paypal anymore. $ goes directly into my bank account.
  11. Thank you both so much!! This is what I have so far. Please let me know if you see any red flags. Wholesale Ordering Wholesale order minimum $200. Order in multiples of 4 with matching color, shape, and design. Wholesale orders take approximately 4-6 weeks to complete depending on production schedule and order complexity. Visa, Mastercard, American Express, and Discover Accepted. Terms may be negotiated after business relationship has formed. Shipping Shipping and packaging to be calculated when order is finished and added to final payment. Contact me with any requests for delivery dates and I will do my best to accommodate.
  12. I am putting together my first wholesale line sheet. I am just curious what other potters have for their payment "rules". What do you use for your wording? I am accepting credit card. Do you do ½ payment before you make the work then charge the other ½ with shipping? Do you just charge the credit card when the order is done? Or, do you charge up front? I do plan on carrying some inventory, but there will be orders where I need to complete all of the work before shipping.
  13. I have a line of work that is monochromatic blues and greens with some black and whites to make everything pop. I have an extensive background in color, so my choices are well thought out, and it doesn't hurt that my colors are great in my firing range.^6. I just don't like browns so much. I want to know if other potters think that working with blues and greens is a sell out. Be honest. I will not be changing my colors, because I truly do like what I have going on, but I am just curious.
  14. I know some folks will shy away from doing this. But before I spend money on making shelving, I would like to see what others have done. The more collapsible and compact the better
  15. I love all of the comments. Thanks everyone. I will try some new things. I love the upside down drying suggestion. It did dawn on me recently that the weight of the clay may be pulling outward. I will try attaching wet again too, but I find that it is easier for me to pull a bunch then attach. Modifications will be made. I am doing between 30 and 60 in a run right now.
  16. Could you explain "I have been using wax resist at the attachment site"????? It's the only red flag I saw, I make a LOT of mugs and haven't had cracking as you describe. The wax slows down the drying a bit, and has reduced cracking, but on the ones that still crack, I can't go back and fill in because of the wax barrier. Hmmmm
  17. Thanks for your input. I am trying to convince the potter that I do production for to change clay bodies. Do you know how the 240 compares to b mix 6? The 213 is temperamental. I think I will go back to no wax, so I can at least fill in cracks with slip.
  18. I am a production potter. I work with standard 213. I would like to minimize the cracking I am getting where the handles attach. This is my current process. I throw the shapes. Let them set up Pull handles and let them air dry until they are able to be touched. I scratch and slip. My slip is the same clay body watered down with a couple tablespoons of vinegar. After handles are attached, I Have been using wax resist at the attachment site, then 8 on a plaster board wrapped with plastic. I don't touch them for 3-4 days. And I even spritz with water a couple time during the 3-4 days under plastic. Can anyone think of anything I am not doing??? Thanks
  19. I have purchased decal paper from ceramic supply. The instructions say to only use an hp black only printer. Does anyone have success using any other type of printers or copiers? My friend with the hp printer moved away. I am firing onto ^06 glaze ware, then decal firing at^010.
  20. I am working on creating a stacking formal mug. Does anyone have any tips or advice on this topic? there is not much info on the Internet about stacking mugs specifically. I am using standard 213. Mug dims are 4"wX2.75"t. Clay balls are 1.25lbs these do not have a trimmed foot. Just a45 degree beveled foot edge and a flat bottom. A couple questions I have are: 1.I am using the lid master caliper, are there any other more precise tools for measuring a good fit? More specifically, should I measure the foot first and adjust the rim, or the rim first and fit the foot? 2. I am getting a lot of distortion of the rim in the initial drying process. Is it ok to stack the mugs after the handles are attached while they are still leather hard? Also should they be stacked for firing? My concern is that they will get stuck together like a teapot lid. I would love to see photos of your pots if you are willing to share. Or any links to video on how to get pots to fit snugly. Thanks. Clay tile mom
  21. thanks for the advice, I wound up meeting with the artist and used the negotiating technique of letting them name the price first. Their amount was higher than what I thought. all is well, and I am happily creating mugs for her. I did use the "WHat works in your profit margin?" line, and it was right on.
  22. I would like to get a feel for what folks get for doing piecework for another potter. I am not in a position to start a whole line to market, but I have strong throwing skills. I am thinking about throwing a bunch of mugs for someone. She would like me to bisque the mugs as well. Is there a formula to figure out what to charge per piece?
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