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Everything posted by Bobg

  1. Here's a pict of the type of mug in question. The impression is just over 1/8" thick. Not the best picture, slightly out of focus.
  2. I do all my dusty work under a vent hood that I have over my metal lathe and milling machine. The glaze would have been hard to get off with a damp sponge due to the depth of the inpressions. If I can find a decent picts of the mugs I'll post one so you can see. Bob
  3. I found the wax resist worked to a certain extent. The area I was trying to keep glaze off of was highly textured. I had dipped one mug and when I saw that the glaze was not coming off put it aside. I plicked it up last week and decided to try and clean the glaze off on textured area. I had a small nylon brush in the shop so I started to brush it. I came off quite easily, so in a way it did resist the way. The rest of the mugs we brushed the glaze on, which takes more time and the glaze is more variable in it's appearance. Bob
  4. What are some of the recommendations for wax resist. Does it get old? I've had mine for about four years. Bob
  5. I'll have to look at the jar and see if it's hot or cold wax, I'm just assuming it's cold. I applied it with a foam brush, that way I can just throw them away when I'm done. The wax dried for about 15 minutes, but it's currently 35 degrees outside and my shop is only about 60. I'm going to make up some test pieces and try a variety of application techniques to see what works. Thanks, Bob
  6. I'm trying to make some mugs that have 1/8" thick slab attached to it that has a stamped design on it. What I'm trying to do is put wax resist on the stamped piece so the glaze doesn't stick to it. And then dip the mug in glaze. I was expecting the glaze to not adhere to the stamping, but it totall covered it. I tried blowing the glaze off, but that did not work. Looking for a way to do this. Maybe my wax resist is not good. I bought it from Clay Art Center in Seattle, I'm assuming it's their house brand. Any help is greatly appreciated. Bob
  7. I don't get a chance to participate in the forums very often. But, my brother in law wants some coffee mugs with his company logo on them. I remember at one time on the forum that someone gave the process of making decals and the procedure to put them on pottery. Do anyone remember that and if they do point me in the right direction. Thanks, Bob
  8. Grype, What's the glaze you are using inside the bowl in this picture? Bob
  9. I'm looking for an underglaze that will give me the same color as in the picture at cone 6. Any one have a clue where I can get some? I'd even be interested in a glaze. Bob
  10. I start with 11 oz of water per pound of glaze to start. Bob
  11. I mainly use my little Skutt 181 for everything I fire. I know how long it takes to fire for bisque and for glazes. To give myself a good fudge factor I just use the max wattage for the total length of firing, which I believe on that kiln is 4800 watts. And multiply that by what a KWH costs me. You can easily figure the cost of each piece if they are comparable in size. Bob
  12. I also like the color. There may not really be any reason for the color being off to you. Different kilns different environments. Bob
  13. By-pass the rheostat in the foot pedal. just wire it direct. If it works it's the rheostat. if not it's something in the motor or controller. Bob
  14. Wasn't there someone that's a member here was using a laser printer to make decals? Bob
  15. I use a mixer on my drill. One thing you want to make sure of is if you mix in a plastic bucket that there are no sharp edges on the mixer. I ended up with pieces of plastic bucket in my glaze when I first mixed up the glaze. Good think I sieve it a couple of times after mixing, that's the only way I would have found out it was in there. Bob
  16. The kiln is going to radiate heat even with a vent. The only way you will lower the temp is with fans and/or open the door/windows. Bob
  17. I've had that happen with some of Coyote's shino glazes. I let the piece dry thoroughly then take my hand and rub them over the piece. It's like a sanding action and fills in the holes. I've never had any problem with pin holes after the piece is fired. Bob
  18. i'm looking for a tomato red ^6 glaze that I can buy. I don't have the time right now to be mixing one up. I know Seattle Pottery Supply offers one, has anyone used it. Looking for other source and would appreciate any help I can get. Thanks, Bob
  19. I would just normally leave the breakers on. Unless they are running and your having electrical storms. I think I would shut them down then, but I'd be more worried that a brown out could do harm then. Bob
  20. Skutt recommends at least 18 inches. I leave my garage door open slightly so the fumes can get out. I fire my Skutt 181 on a cement floor on the factory stand that is on a wooden dolly. The wood doesn't get hot at all and I don't worry about it. Bob
  21. Rebbylicious, It will take a while for your muscles to get used to using them. You just need to keep playing and trying new things and it will come around. I'm a visual learner, I can read a book multiple times and may never get what their talking about. But, when I watch someone I understand immediately. There is no one around me that does pottery, my brother does, but he's 600 miles away and talking to him on the phone is like reading a book. I've learned more from Youtube than anywhere else. I subscribe to Simon Leach and youdanxxx so I know when they upload new videos. There'
  22. I make bowls with leaves in them. I first put the leaf in while still wet then put cobalt oxide on right over the top of the leaf. Bisque fire then put iron oxide on the leaf and wipe if off leaving quite a bit of iron oxide on the leaf. Let this dry and then clear glaze it. The iron oxide shows all the detail of the leaves. Bob
  23. I just use a tile drill bit with lots of water to keep everything cool. Haven't every had a problems with it. bob
  24. I've had a Clay Boss wheel for the last five years and really like it. My brother who has made pots for the last 35 years stopped on a trip and checked it out. He spent the afternoon making pots and really liked it. He teaches pottery to middle school students and He bought five of them based off what mine was like. He said they haven't had any problems with the in four years. Bob
  25. David, Have you looked at what Clay Art Center in Tacoma has? I only work with ^6, but they are always very helpful especially with shipping. I live on the eastern side of Washington state and have have up to 3000 pounds shipped to me cheaper than it would cost for gas to drive over there. Here's their address: Clay Art Center, Inc. 2636 Pioneer Way East Tacoma, WA 98404 Bob
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