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Everything posted by Wyndham

  1. I think the key to a controlled firing in a digital controlled firing is to have each zone(as Neil touched on) controlled by it's own thermocouple. One T/C in the middle can not give the control that 3, each in it's own zone can do.The other factor is to make sure the T/C is in good working shape and change it out as it begins to show problems. Have witness cones in each zone to know what the heat work is doing. Kiln sitter will age out and sometimes fail to shut off, I've had at lest 3 go out over 20 years on different kilns, causing over firing Stuff happens manual or digital Wyndham
  2. I hope you did not misinterpret, calcine the EPK not the colemanite Wyndham
  3. You might try calcining some EPK which means in your next bisque firing put a bowl full of EPK in the bisque. clay and gertsley borate sometimes bond together and fall off the pot.Calcining the epk and using 5% epk and 5% calcined epk will help, maybe enough to solve the issue. I'd also cut the gertsley down and add back a frit like 3134. There are several glaze calc online free programs that will help you balance it out. Just a guess but cut the gerstley to 10% add 11% 3134 and decrease the silica by about 3%. I don't have a program in front of me so this is just a wild guess. Hope this helps Wyndham
  4. Just got this link from John Britt about rice ash available in 5 gal pails. Check it out http://ncclayclub.blogspot.com/2015/05/rice-hull-ash.html?spref=fb Wyndham edit here's the home url http://www.greasweep.com/
  5. Thanks to all for the info, I get to work on it bit by bit as time allows.One of the reason for not putting the burners under the kiln is not being able to easily get down to light them. Thanks, Wyndham
  6. It might be possible to get some scrap kaowool and wedge in in with a putty knife or some thing like that. The kaowool won't harm the elements. Wyndham
  7. So what is the rod spacing, (6)@8 inches to cover the 48 inches or ?. How much fiber did it take. Mine looks to be 45 in across and 40-42 front to back as the bricks fit Wyndham
  8. Biggest reason for a top loader is my age and bending down that low to load the kiln as the location has a low shed roof. If I made it a front loader, I'd have to make it a car kiln. My first kiln was similar with a fiber top 3 layer tied with kanthal wire, this one will be a bit smaller only about 30-34 in deep. I need a quick turn around/test kiln. if I need a quick 20 or 30 mugs and a few other things, I can turn it around load and fire in a day. I have some 1 in high alumina 28x13 used shelves that are bowed, I could cut length wise and prop along side the flame channel(stack side) as a thin bag wall to protect the ware if needed. Mark are those 3" or 4" folds by how wide, 12 inches. How do you overlap the courses to keep the courses tight enough to keep all the heat in? Getting excited, first new kiln in awhile \Wyndham
  9. Thanks, I had this years ago but either lost it or packed it away as not to lose it ha ha . I think I'll go as big as possible for the flame way. I'll follow up later if it works out. Marcia, I'll try out your cone 6 red when I get it up and firing. Wyndham
  10. I think I have come up with a small(8-10 cu ft) flat top down draft gas kiln design but need help with burner placement. I will use 2 venturi burners(hi pressure regulated) coming in from the back each left & right beside the exit flue. Between the interior wall and the ware shelves, how much space should I allow. The shelf layout will be either 4 14x14 shelves with 4 inches between the interior wall and the side edge of the shelves on both sides or using 13x13 shelves this will allow 5 inch flame channel on each side with something of a half brick about 2/3rds down the channel to lift the flame.(no bag wall) The bottom shelves will have either a series of 2.5 in bricks under the flame side of the shelves to keep the flame from being sucked out the exit flue until comes down in the front face of the shelves. there is also a 2 in spacing between the back set and the front set and 2 in between the front set and the front wall. This is going to be a top loader with a hinged 3 in fiber top firing to cone 6 and maybe cone 10 reduction I'm wondering if I have missed that something someone here might see. Thanks Wyndham
  11. Going to send the foot pedal and controller box to Amaco c/o Bob for repair. no other choice it looks like, oh well, stuff breaks Wyndham
  12. Will do. I too want to know more of what's going on with my equipment Wyndham
  13. Finally got through but the tech was not that well versed and said the foot pedal controller board was likely out. I asked for the head tech, Bob, but Bob was out at the dentist. The controller board doesn't have an obvious burned component on the board but that's all I can tell till I can find out if there is a meter reading I can take on the board to tell if it's bad Board replacement is $150-175, will find out when I get them the ser #. If the date is the last 4 digits, that will be 12,03 dec of 03 Will learn more this week Thanks Wyndham
  14. Yea we gotta do something to keep the wolf away Wyndham
  15. I even had a customer that got one to hold his Iphone (sideways). Wyndham
  16. I've got 3 calls into them but no return call yet,oh well have a backup wheel so it could be worse. Thanks Wyndham
  17. Thanks, I'll work more on it tomorrow. Wyndham
  18. Mark, I'm talking about the foot pedal Hi/Low pot ajustments inside the pedal. the low rpm pot seems not to adjust as you trim the low with turning from low/off to1.5 turns to max Wyndham
  19. I've replaced the switches on my brent C wheels before and adjusted the Hi/Low pot setting with no trouble but this switch is giving me grief. The pedal won't start the wheel at the low pot setting no matter how adjust it. The hi pot kicks in as it should but no transition from slow to hi. Hope someone might have a thought. I've got an email into tech support but it's after hrs now, just frustrated.Thanks Wyndham
  20. The new g200 eu comes from Spain, I believe. In my cone 10 r Temmoku and other glazes, I need a a bit more flux, still trying to dial it in. Wyndham
  21. Thanks for the pixs, lots to consider. The k28 vs k23 is something I had not accounted for.I have the pad for the kiln, just need a shed(metal one) and this spring try out a a new kiln build. Wyndham
  22. Curious about several things. What amount of lbs/pressure from the jack do you think you are getting . Do you use corn starch as a release agent or something else.
  23. Thanks, looking forward to it. Wyndham
  24. As with the burners I have on the 45 cu ft ,I have the paps open til reduction then closed but for 1 turn then around cone 6 open another 1/2 turn while adjusting the damper as needed. The issue with burners under the kiln is the paps adjustment, too many issues with stiff joints, old age and the like so I might have to stay with burners either 2 in back or some on the sides so as to adjust the paps and a bag wall. My gut feeling was there might be a possible problem with this type of burner, just wanted to see if I missed something. Wyndham
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