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  1. Thanks for the information! I called Aaron at IMCO and found out the following: 1. They are discontinuing Sculpture 50; for sculpture he recommended Navajo Wheel 35. I asked about Stoneware 1-C and he said the silica in it is 100 mesh and he didn't recommend it for sculpture either even though it looks quite rough in the image on their website. 2. DC 3-5 may slightly slump at cone 6 3. Starry and Starry Night have Manganese Dioxide, which will out-gas during firing and may cause the glaze to pinhole. It should be bisqued to at least cone 04. 4. The Porcelain 6, Navajo Wheel 35 and Stoneware 1C will all work well with MC6G glazes 5. I didn't ask about Great White, so I don't know what he might have said about it I need an electrician and a few days without rain before I can get a kiln set up and some pieces made, but I'll get back on the forum once I have something to report. Thanks again for all of your help and information!
  2. Thank you - that's very helpful! I will eliminate Great White from my choices. When I call Aaron, I'll ask if the ilmenite in Starry Night helps with the bloating issues that are said to be common with very dark clays. I note on their website that they say Starry Night is for oxidation firing only so I suspect it does not. Thanks again for your comments!
  3. Thanks. Yes, I can certainly do that, but there was a post on this forum a couple of years ago about the IMCO Stoneware bloating - a defect that I gather has been corrected. If there are issues with other clays in their line, I'd just as soon know about them before spending a bunch of time testing. If possible, I prefer to learn from other people's experience! Color is less important to me than vitrification, strength, reliability, and ease of handling. If someone on the forum says that one or more of these clays doesn't vitrify at cone 6 or that they are prone to cracking or that they slump at cone 6 or there are other issues, I can write them off my list of potential clays. For example, another series of posts in this forum talks about the difficulty of working with black clays because of their issues with bloating, etc. For that reason, I won't consider Starry or Night despite their attractive color. Once I've settled on a couple of clay bodies, I'll adjust the glazes to fit them. I don't foresee a time when I would ever care to make my own clay body - just don't have any interest in it, I guess. So any comments on IMCO clays from those who have experience would be most welcome.
  4. Here's a link to their pugged mid-range clays: http://clayimco.com/mid-range-clays.html
  5. I recently relocated to Northern California and need to choose new clays. IMCO isn't far away and seems to be a major supplier in the area. I did an internet search but didn't come up with much in the way of comments about their clay bodies, either positive or negative. Does anyone here use clays from IMCO? I fire Cone 6 electric. Mostly slab-built sculptures in sizes from 12"-24" and occasionally I throw dinnerware (but not at anyone in particular). Anyone have an opinion? Do their midrange clays actually vitrify at cone 6? How do they handle? Any glaze fit issues? Do you especially like or dislike any of them? Any comments would be welcome. TIA.
  6. Thanks again everyone! I'll post again when I've got results. Really, really appreciate your help!
  7. Thanks again for the insights! Our basement is pretty leaky - there are places where you can see daylight between the exterior siding boards, plus there are several vent openings so I'm not really concerned about intake air. I'll put a CO2 detector a few feet from the kiln and it sets off, I'll definitely install a vent fan. When you say that glazes are affected by the use of a downdraft kiln vent, could you elaborate on that? Which types of glazes and how are they affected? If you don't want to take the time to answer, just direct me where to look. Thanks again!
  8. Thanks! I didn't think about using cement board and I can certainly put in spacers. The basement door opens to the outside (it's more of a root cellar than a real basement) so I can leave the door open and put in a fan, but there aren't any windows. The kiln I currently have is an old Skutt 2727. Probably a little bigger than I need so I could have looked for a smaller version if the top had to be farther from the ceiling - glad i don't have to buy another kiln! I hadn't thought about the heat in the room above. We don't have cooling and it gets pretty hot here in the summer. I don't make a lot of work so I could probably arrange to just fire in the winter. As long as the basement door is open and I'm using a fan, do I need to also use a kiln vent? The room is never occupied, but the furnace is down there (return vent is from the house so not much basement air gets in it, I don't think). Thanks again for your help!
  9. I've been through several pages in this forum and looked at kiln manufacturers' websites, but can't find an answer. How close to a wood ceiling can a kiln be? I want to fire in my basement, but the clearance from the concrete floor to the joists of the floor above is only about 6 feet. I'm trying to decide how small my kiln needs to be in order to fire safely. Would this change if I used a down-vent? What if I suspended a large metal hood under the joists? Thanks in advance.
  10. Thank you. I was confused since Benzine said to leave them out in the above post. I guess there are different ways and no hard-and-fast rule. Does anyone have any experience doing it both ways?
  11. Do you leave ALL of the peeps out during the entire firing? Can the peeps be used to adjust internal temp to make it more even?
  12. Hi, First post here. I'm putting together a studio after 2 years of classes. I'm going to convert an old electric to a gas raku kiln by turning it horizontal and making a down draft with a flue at the back. Now it will require an odd-sized shelf. Can I cut an old broken shelf down to size with a wet tile saw? The blade is for cutting porcelain tile. Thanks!, Phoebe3
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