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  1. Element or relay? could of went bad in the misfire firing though Have you checked the elements after you had the misfire?
  2. they are talking about that in this post a couple days ago http://ceramicartsdaily.org/community/topic/2570-slip-settling/
  3. Sorry if this seems obvious but have you made sure all the elements are working?
  4. Thanks for your input, I have out-gassing when I fire bisque too low. For instance once I fired a test piece of bisque in an 06 glaze load. Painted, glazed and fired it However out-gassing happened ) as I got big holes and craters from the gasses still being released as the bisque was not fired hot enough. I googled a bunch and found out about out-gassing. However that was 2 cones difference, this time it's just one so I am willing to do another test. I just don't want it to craze later on down the line as I've sometimes have had happen before. I thought maybe the crazing happened later cause the fit was almost right but not quit (like one cone off was one guess I had) Not sure but it sounds like you might be working with stoneware by looking at your cones so I believe earthenware is a bit more finicky than stoneware because of the low temps but I'm just guessing about that part as I've never done stoneware. I don't believe it will craze either however I have had crazing happen months after a piece was done and was hoping that would not happen with this load. 03 came out to hot so I might try and refire the whole load at 04 with a 10 to 15 min hold this time but I'd much rather have the glaze stick than go too hot again.
  5. what kind of glaze and what type clay?
  6. My question is I did a load of earthenware bisque at 04, set up cones and fired and it looks like my cones barely moved. In the past we always fired to 03 in an older kiln to achieve our 04 bisque. This time I used one of our newer kilns with the evironvent thinking it would give me a nice 04 but as mentioned it only barely bent the 04 cone. So my question is will crazing be a problem or is the problem just going to be outgassing if not fired hot enough? I know I'll be able to tell if outgassing will be a problem by doing one of the pieces however I don't want crazing to happen like I've seen happen sometimes months later. thanks, Sloan
  7. most of the kiln manufactures web sites have all that kind of information on their web sites. What kind of kiln is it? For instance I just googled how to set up Skutt kiln And found this where it tells you distance from walls etc http://www.skutt.com...s/KilnSetup.php
  8. I've had problems with pure brilliance myself unless I get my viscosity to 19 seconds. Can you provide a photo of your pinholing? Are the super fine pin holes or are they like small bubbles?
  9. So, I doubt you'll be able to repair it yourself. With the idea it might not be too hard to implement. What would be needed is a waterproof momentary switch (someone like Graingers would be a place to look) then it would just need to be placed where the switch would activate either close or open depending on how it's positioned
  10. We need some more info, maybe even photos to be able to help
  11. My pinky technique is basically two middle fingers under and two outer finders over on the finger handle side. It allows me to open the tongs by moving fingers
  12. Yes I got those. I had a hard time with the spring so I ended up removing it. They are sturdier but I still like the cheapie version better however so I only use the new ones on heavier pieces Thanks for the review. Hmmm, I guess I'll keep looking. Maybe I'll head to Home Depot to look for the ones jojoaruba mentioned. Mea I mostly had a hard time with spring just because I was used to using one without it. They work fine with spring too I just did not like it so I took it off. I've got a special opening technique I use with my pinky for the cheap ones so I figured I would just remove it. Many people would find it usefull I imagine it just did not work for me and my technique . They are however sturdier than the cheapies and that was what I wanted. I like the look of the channel lock plier type and will end up making a set like that with help from my metal shop neighbors or look at the Home Depot ones eventually.
  13. I've been thinking about this too. The only way I envisioned it is to use stilts with bangle laid on side and keep the stilt points sharpened so it leaves very minimum stilt marks as I'm able to grind some stilt marks with a very fine dremmel bit and sort of buff out the very light rough mark with polishing compound and a small buffing wheel also for the dremmel.
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