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cracked pot

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  1. Curt, Thank you for your reply. This sounds like a likely cause. The crazing is only around the joined area. Guess I will keep these baking dishes for myself and observe. Thanks
  2. Never had any crazing before with this glaze(Falls Creek Shino) but may have put it on thicker as I wanted it to look more white than brown. Other bowls in load did not have this problem. The crazing is very fine and can only be seen in very direct sunlight and then, only if you are looking for it and only at the join. One of the casserole dishes sold almost out of my hands from the kiln. Think I will keep the other to monitor it. Pieces still ring true when tapped so don't think there is any compromise of the clay. Thanks for your responses.
  3. I know this has been covered many times before but this is a new wrinkle for me. Glazes and clay have been used many times before with no problems. This time I made two casserole dishes which were thrown on bottomless the wheel, stretched oval then had a bottom added with a coil for strength on the inside and smoothed. Now pieces are pinging and I can see crazing if I look closely around the coil added area. Can the extra thickness and smoothing cause this? Thanks.
  4. In my recipe the Zircopax and Tin Oxide are always part of the mix. Alberta Slip 56 Gerstley Borate 19 NC4 or Soda Spar(I use Minspar 200) 9 Silica 9 Lithium Carbonate 7 Zircopax 9 Tin Oxide 5 I use this all the time on the dark clay and it does need a heavy application. I'll try more tests and see what happens. I'm having a lot of fun with this!
  5. Thanks Old Lady(really hate calling you that) I am reading the book now. High Bridge, I put the glaze on as I normally do, two 5 second dips or three good brushed layers. Still have lots left of the samples so will try it thicker next time. I made one critical error that I know of, I did not mix a cup of the base glaze alone for comparison. I will do that in the next firing to see if I messed up the measuring in this batch. I always write out the formula and check off when each ingredient is added to the bucket but mistakes happen. Thanks for the feedback.
  6. OK, here the results of my experiment with Falls Creek Shino. I mixed a large batch of glaze, mixed well, measured out 100 gm of dry mix into five cups. I added 2 gm of cobalt carbonate, 2 gm copper carbonate, 5 gm teal mason stain, 5 gm leaf green mason stain and 5 gm buttercup mason stain. The results are very dark and the color does not show up unless you have strong light on the piece. I probably won't use these again but it was fun to try. Just bought John Britt's book for cone 6 glazes and will be trying some other glazes to get the colors and surface I want. I used pieces my grand daughters made to test because they had lots of texture. the one photo shows a bowl with the original glaze with a small bowl inside with buttercup stain added. Marcia, I may try your method next time, it seems simpler.
  7. Thanks for your responses. I think I'll stick to the dry method, don't have a math brain. I'll let you know how it turns out.
  8. Thanks for the advise. Looking forward to playing with the colors.
  9. High Bridge, I did take off the cover for the electronics to check. No sign of melting or scorching. Thanks.
  10. I have to tell you how much I appreciate this forum. I bought my first kiln about four years ago, no experience at all with firing on my own. My electrician ran the 220 line and put a plug on the end in case I ever needed to move the kiln. Soon after that I read here on the forums that hard wiring was better since oxidation in the plug could lead to overheating, Electrician thought this was not likely. Well, just to be safe, I always fire when I'm around and check each time to see if the wire or plug is hot. In my last two firings the plug has been uncomfortably warm so I called the electrician. He checked and everything looked OK but after his vacation he would return to install a box to wire the kiln. I fired one load before he returned since things looked OK. When he came back to rewire and unplugged the kiln from the socket, the socket had melted on one side and showed some burn marks. I was incredibly lucky and would not have kept such a close eye on things if not for all your generous advise. Should probably have followed it in the first place. Thank You.
  11. As Old Lady said, let vinyl rest in sun to flatten. I haven't needed anything else to hold it down. The weight of the wheel does that.
  12. I would like to add color to my Falls Creek Shino as discussed on Ceramics Arts Daily. My question is, can I mix a large batch of dry glaze, mix it together well and then divide it out into 100 gm portions to add the colorants. In other words, is it risky to divide up the batch before adding water? Once mixed with water, I don't know how to divide it up and figure out the percentages of color to add.
  13. I went to a flooring store and bough a remnant of vinyl floor covering. Didn't glue it down. Inexpensive and easy to mop up.
  14. Going on Sunday! Missed the Baltimore craft show this year, so really looking forward to this one.
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