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  1. Looking to purchase a new kiln to keep up with increasing demand of a busy community studio. I'm thinking an oval 16/18 cu ft will fit the bill. We fire to cone 6. It would be on 240 V 3P. Any opinions on the oval Skutt VS the Cone Art? Skutt 23.6KW VS Cone art 16.6KW How is it to change elements on the cone art? How many firings are you getting? Are they even? Thank you for your time Colleen
  2. Thank you for your responses. Wondering what your thoughts are on the following additives. Borax and Bentonite The major crawling offender is the Dessert stone glaze base posted below. We use several base recipes. This is just one. The glazes that crawl are taking a long time to dry. When using more than one dipped layer cracking and peeling off in the drying stage is greatly increased. Since I first posted we have tested an addition of bentonite 4%. to the inky black glaze This seemed to help with adhesion and significantly reduce cracking In a separate test, We added 5% Bora
  3. We have 27 glazes in our studio. Some crawl at times. Usually cracking appears on the dried glazed piece as though the glaze is having an adhesion problem. Glazes often get very thick a day or two after mixing and need more water added. I use distilled in mixing and to thin. I'm thinking an additive may help adhesion. Any thoughts?
  4. I have used Duncan concepts and tested in a variety of ways. Cone 6, cone 04, single fire, etc. (all worked well!) Although the colors aren't as bright at cone 6 (with Amoco's HF-10 over) they are still nice (greens were a little dull). The concepts seemed to get a bit glossy on their own without a glaze as well. I needed the bright colors for a elementary school outdoor tile mural. so I bisque fired to cone 6 and glaze fired to cone 04 using the LG-10 clear over. It worked beautifully! Bright colors and strength. It has been up for 6 years in WI. winters and looks great. I
  5. It has been my experience that when loading a kiln, if the kiln posts are not stacked directly above each other you are potentially gambling with a broken shelf due to the stress. Corners break off all the time if not supported. I have witnessed this when a broken shelf in the middle of a large load caused the domino effect of every shelf beneath to become broken and the entire load ruined.(this was a case of a student not following the rules of kiln loading. Hard lesson learned.) Also, the use of soft brick for posts can cause the posts to stick to the shelf above and make unloading d
  6. I am in the process of testing clear cone 6 clear glazes to fit my cone 10 porcelain clay body. Why this odd combo?(This is the clay I have right now 500 + pounds, when it is gone I may choose to switch to a cone 6 clay and testing will resume again but at least I will know what to do) Clays tend to change over time and I am seeking a clear understanding of glaze formulation in order to be flexible. I am looking to alter my glaze to meet the following requirements. Does this glaze make for a strong durable functional product without crazing? and Does it look nice over slips? My
  7. In the book Making an Installing Handmade tiles by Angelica Pozo, there is a method described to test tile clay for extreme cold outdoor use but also a reasoning for why certain clays work and others do not. (page 126) This is a terriffic book to own. I used this test prior to creating an outdoor tile mural for a school. It was definitely worth the time to test. I found the method printed out on another clay thread From research by Dr, brownell and other Ceramic Engineers at Alfred via Ted Randall, Val Cushing.... From "Cushing's Handbook", 3rd edition "To determine if
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