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Everything posted by Mike@riverrun

  1. Aha - I was going to suggest you run some test mugs up to cone 8 or 9 and see if you get full vitrification. Had the same problem with a white stoneware that was 6-10 and the handles broke weeks after use, always just short of the attachment to the pot.
  2. I second the eyeball method. The glaze should look like sun reflecting off water melted on top of an icy pond. If you are reducing in paper or sawdust are you leaving it in there too long? I get better cracks if I plunge into water after about 15 min in reduction. The amount of cracking also relates to the glaze fit. Post the recipe, there may be clues.
  3. An electric kiln produces a lot of heat, requires 220 V wiring (unless a small 110 V one) and should be vented. The best vent is one that draws air out of the kiln through a fan to the outside. Your bigger problem is the 8 x 8 shed. You can go to SKUTT's websit and download the users manual if you know the model number. It will show you the setback from different wall surfaces. Wood is the worse. If you are going to build with wood, you will find that at least 18 inches is required, and possibly with a metal heat shield. If it is a 3 foot diameter kiln, this is a width of 6 feet side to side a
  4. Interesting topic. I am a one-person studio potter who works out of a 1,000 square foot space in my house that is designed the studio around sustainability. I fire electric. All my failures (bisque or glazed) get broken up using a box and a tamper used for asphalt work and is used behind retaining walls, in steps and along paths around the house. All glaze water uses to wash bottoms, etc., goes into a 5 gal bucket where it settles out and the clear water either goes down the drain or is cycled through my glaze spray booth. The glaze is concentrated and test fired with each glaze firing. If it
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